| Author | Message | ||
     Jwoody |
So long story, I'll keep it short though. Turn signals are inoperative for the last 2 months. And stupid U0001 COMM ERROR is listed in Diag Mode. 2009 1125R bike with a 2010 motor that was replaced under warranty (previous owner) after it threw a rod. Bike ran fine the last year or so. Great even. I have not made any changes to it other than tires, oil changes, EBR Rotor/Rotor kit, brake fluid, coolant, etc, Basic stuff. It has the EBR ECM matched to the Barker's. * Replaced the IC with a new one from Lance (St. Paul HD) with SW 6.2 thought maybe that was the issue. Nope. Hey at least I got a new IC now. * Checked cables and the left switch housing for damage. Nope. Nothing out of the ordinary. * Pulled the fairing off, lights and fairing stay. Inspected GND 1 there for the IC and the rest of the cables. Checked cables and pins there under the stay. checked GND 2 and the ECM GND's Nope. * Disconnected everything I could find that the Diagnostic manual listed as part of the 10A fuse. Rear brake light. Disconnected front and rear signals, etc,. Tail tidy light. Nope. * Lastly with no IC connected, the left and right switch housing disconnected and all the other items listed above. The stupid thing blows the 10A fuse when I switch it to on. I even tried a 5A and it blows also. So yea I'm really freaking pissed off and not sure what else I can do. I REALLY like having my turn signals working in the DC/NOVA/MD area. It just feels safer. Anyone have any ideas? I'm going to look at the Relays next, but I'm not sure its those at all. -J  (Message edited by JWoody on September 25, 2016) | ||
| Stevel |
This comes down to proper troubleshooting and you are not doing that. The rule is simple. The only way to find a short circuit is by disconnection. To do that, you must have a schematic of the circuit at fault. Then, one by one, you disconnect the circuit loads until the short disappears and wah lah, you have found the fault. It is not rocket science. It is important to remember that the fault could be within the wiring harness itself, not just the end loads. To prevent unnecessary consumption of fuses, make a fuse up that uses a simple 12 volt light bulb between the two contacts. If after a disconnect, the light bulb is lit, you still have the short. When the light bulb is extinguished, the circuit is working correctly. | ||
| Jwoody |
Steve, I followed all the steps in the Diag Manual. There is nothing left connected to the 10A. Its popping when I turn the key to ON. My next recourse is to pull the ignition switch housing apart and go from there. I put the Meter on the Acc. socket while it was on and its getting 13v. I mis-read the Relay portion of the book thats only for the headlamps. Which those work fine. -J (Message edited by JWoody on September 26, 2016) | ||
| Two_seasons |
1125 owners have found that the ignition switch can malfunction. Also, the wiring harness that goes from the ignition switch and around the fairing stay has been known to short out due to extreme harness stress. Some on this board have dremeled out a relief in the fairing stay to remove the harness stress (tightness) at that point. | ||
| Jwoody |
Two, yea I have dug through those Threads hoping it wasn't the issue. I may Dremel the fairing stay as suggested. So just got home, pulled the ignition and found this. Have not applied power yet again to see if this really is the issue. I found it just barely under this small black wrap with a small zip tie. The solder points were fine though. I suppose I should look up part numbers. -J  | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
Solder the wires back together and no need for new parts! Or put some extra length of wire in between. (Message edited by Brother in buells on September 27, 2016) | ||
| Two_seasons |
It's to bad that manufacturers think that an extra inch of discrete wiring will cost them too much! Have you powered up now that the ignition is apart? | ||
| Jwoody |
Two, yup. So got home yesterday and had a neighbor come over who is a gearhead of sorts. Enough that I could walk him through the steps I had taken and look through the Diag Manual. I needed another pair of eyes just to make sure I was not missing anything. We could not see any steps I had missed. So he's suggestion was why not just cut the wire pull back some of the sheathing. Twist together, tape and at least see if that will work in the short term. And it did! So it appeared that at least 3/4 of the power cable was sliced just enough to cause the fuse to blow. So today at work I brought in the switch and soldered it back together. Placed a heat shrink cover on it and moved the excess sheating up to the base of the switch housing. Secured it for now.  Got home a bit late from work, plugged in the new IC, put ALL new fuses in each socket. Turned the key and BAM! Lights again!  Reinstalled the airbox, reconnected the rear indicators, brake/stop light etc,.  Decided to quit for the night. I still have the order through New Castle for the new ignition, gas cap, pillion key, etc,. I'll just keep this one as a spare I guess. Curious tho to see if the new one is any different at all. -J | ||
| Two_seasons |
Good to hear. Cool that you found it quickly. Good work  |
