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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through February 18, 2016 » 09 1125R injectors won't fire « Previous Next »

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Archive through January 09, 2016Flybysr130 01-09-16  11:30 am
         

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Bud
Posted on Saturday, January 09, 2016 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

side stand switch ? or BAS sensor used as speed shifter pick up for the cut off for the a race ecm ?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2016 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

WASG....may also want to check crank position sensor (the IC should show a code if it's bad)...if you don't have spark AND the injectors don't squirt...the ECM may not know where the crank is.
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Flybysr1
Posted on Sunday, January 10, 2016 - 03:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Nuts, She fires and runs so long as I'm dripping gas down the throat....At this point I'm betting it was a ground...I'll find out this week.
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Flybysr1
Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With my new off road ECM all plugged in and ready, I turned on the ignition and the fuel pump didn't pump up. Fuse blew..after a few quick checks,I once again removed the pump that I previously had out and checked and bench tested. The pump was fine but harness had a short to ground. I found the issue at the plug where the conductors enter the into tank. Pulling out the plug destroyed the plug. Now I'm either going to find one or make something out of epoxy. Suggestions would be highly appreciated
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Panshovevo
Posted on Thursday, January 14, 2016 - 10:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First of all, do you understand that the ECM controls the fuel pump by controlling it's access to ground?

And that you can test the basic function of a pump by poking the ground wire with a sharp probe ( like a dental pick ) and grounding the pick?

What plug are you talking about that enters the tank?
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Flybysr1
Posted on Friday, January 15, 2016 - 08:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

With the pump out and all of the connectors disconnected I still had continuity between the red and black wires. The short was associated to this area. The pumps runs now when the switch is on. Now I need to reassemble. Can't find the plug shown here so I'm planning to use epoxy.
fuel pump assembly
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, January 15, 2016 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

a similar problem was found in this thread:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/760318.html?1431529294

you may want to contact some of the authors to learn of their approach to the repair of the connector.

JB weld as well as Versachem make fuel tank repair epoxy...you can find them at Amazon
hope this helps
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Flybysr1
Posted on Friday, January 15, 2016 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's why I love this board! Confirms I'm not the only one to dig into and find issues in the potting! All set to put it all back together using 2K potting material from Devcon. I'll send a pic. Thanks Nuts for forwarding the link!
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Flybysr1
Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2016 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Success! I just fired her up for the first time since I bought her. Fixed the leads to the pump and sealed the hole with epoxy. I put gas in the tank, no leaks so far at 2 hours. Fuel pressure is at 550 and holding.
Now that I know it's runner .....l'm done here ....moving on to the rotor / stator fix. Thanks to all!
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2016 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When the modified rotor from EBR first came out they said it was super precision stuff.
I looked closely at the last one I got and I'm pretty sure it can be duplicated easily by a simple drilling step.
Maybe not a "hand drill" but a drill press, probably, a mill, certainly.
The spray hole is .025 or .030 and can be easily drilled.

If I can get a rotor in the near future, I'll try my ideas...

Z
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Dannybuell
Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That would be cool if the curtain was pulled back on this rotor issue and we could see it for what it really was...

Hildstrom? slotted his like the big twin compu-fire...

http://www.directcycleparts.com/electrical-ignitio n-charging-system-compu-fire-phase-charging-system s-compu-fire-phase-charging-twin-open-primary-p-11 95.html

I wonder how both modifications to the rotor would work?
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Flybysr1
Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2016 - 09:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree with Zac...I think I could pull it off but I am getting a few local EDM quotes. When I 1st started learning about it, I thought this fix was rocket science. I don't think both fixes are required. Just save the stator by lowering the temperature.
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