Author |
Message |
Cocheeze15
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 05:13 pm: |
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This may be a stupid question, but I'm new to my Buell, and I just finished the stator replacement, and rotor upgrade and noticed a noise. I was only able to ride my bike about 15 miles before the stator went out. Replaced everything, Loctited it, and torqued it. Filled up the oil as most I could with only a cold check, and started the bike. A few seconds after I started it I noticed what I would describe as valve train noise coming from the left side rear cylinder. I took it for a quick ride to get the oil to circulate, and when I came back and did a hot check the oil was about 3/4 of a quart low. I restarted the bike, and the noise is a little quieter. I think I'm extra sensitive since I just did the rotor, and didn't hear any noise from there, but do these bike have a normal valve trial noise to them, kinda like a couple Ducatis that I've ridden? The bike runs good, and no engine lights or anything, oil now full, but I just didn't pay attention to any of these noises in the 15 miles I was able to ride it |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 06:13 pm: |
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they are noisey my cold check on oil is on the side stand oil is just on the bottom of the dip stick when hot its ok. |
Dennis_c
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 06:26 pm: |
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From Buell Service Bulletin B-070 Dated February 12, 2008: Engine Oil Check Procedure An accurate engine oil level reading can be obtained with the engine cold or at normal operating temperature. The engine will require a longer warm up period in colder temperatures if using the hot check procedure. Perform engine oil COLD CHECK as follows: NOTE: For an accurate cold check, you must wait a minimum of four hours after the motorcycle has been run. 1. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick. 2. Hold the motorcycle upright for one minute. 3. While continuing to hold the motorcycle upright, remove and wipe off the dipstick. 4. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. 5. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. If oil was added, proceed to the Oil Level Hot Check procedure. Perform engine oil HOT CHECK as follows: 1. Ride motorcycle for approximately 10 minutes. Ride at least 5 miles (8 kilometers) to ensure the oil is hot and the engine is at normal operating temperature. Readings taken with colder oil could lead to an overfull engine condition. 2. Stand the motorcycle upright (not leaning on sidestand) on a firm level surface. An uneven surface will produce a false oil reading. 3. Idle the motorcycle for three minutes. Shut off the motorcycle. 4. See Figure 1. Loosen the dipstick. 5. Wait for 3-4 minutes after shutdown (with vehicle still upright) before reading the oil level, or false readings may result. 6. Unscrew and remove dipstick from oil filler hole. Wipe dipstick clean. 7. Insert dipstick into oil filler hole, screwing dipstick in completely. 8. See Figure 2. Unscrew and remove dipstick and note oil level. An indicated oil level between MIN and MAX (measured after performing steps 1 through 7) is acceptable for safe engine operation. Oil should be added in 3.4 fl. oz. (0.1 L) increments, depending on how far the level is from the MAX reading. Confirm oil level by repeating steps 1 through 8. Oil Quantities Required for Oil Change/Replacement Engine oil (including oil filter) : 2.7 qt. 2.6 Liters Engine oil (not including oil filter) : 2.4 qt. 2.3 Liters |
Cocheeze15
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 06:40 pm: |
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Oh, ok, I did the cold check standing upright, which may have been why I got almost no oil on the hot check. I put in about 2.5 quarts which is close according to the manual if the filter is not changed. Time to ride it, finally! Thanks! |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 08:55 pm: |
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3.3qts w/oil filter. 3qts w/o filter 300ft/lbs on the rotor nut. |
Cocheeze15
| Posted on Sunday, September 06, 2015 - 09:01 pm: |
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Well I knew about the rotor nut, but i did not know about the oil. Not sure why I bought a manual at this point.... |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Monday, September 07, 2015 - 11:50 am: |
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Just a note - If you re-torque your rotor: you can re-use the nut 2 or 3 times, after that it's too deformed. when you are ready to install the nut, apply loctite(Red 272) and torque to 210 ft-lb. Back off 720 degrees(2 turns) then tighten to 300 ft-lb. A 2' breaker bar with 150# at 3 o'clock is 300 ft-lb. |
Panshovevo
| Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 07:39 am: |
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quote: 3.3qts w/oil filter. 3qts w/o filter
This is the first time I've seen this quantity of oil posted. Where did this info come from? I found on the first oil change on my CR that it took 3 full quarts after dropping the sump screen along with changing the filter. With this quantity it's right at the full mark when hot, but I'm pretty sure another .3 qt would move the level past the full mark. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, October 06, 2015 - 11:19 am: |
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+1 Panshovel. I always use 3.0 quarts with a filter. Pour it in and done. |
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