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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 10:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I was riding to work today and my bike died like I hit the kill switch. After 1 minute it refired and I continued. Checked the codes and had a p0628. Any ideas? I've never heard of a fuel pump failure like this but from a quick search that is what it seems like. Any other things I should check first?
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Panshovevo
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 12:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would check the fuse first, make sure it's not loose and the contacts are clean.

Then I would check the fuel pump connector (4 wire flat connector under the seat) to see if it is locked together securely, and pull it apart to inspect the terminals for alignment and corrosion.

Then I would check to make sure I had battery voltage or something very close to it on the hot wire on both sides of the connector. It is hot all the time, even with the key switch off.

These are the basics.
There are other things to check, but I'd get these done first.



(Message edited by Panshovevo on August 31, 2015)

(Message edited by Panshovevo on August 31, 2015)
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Everything is clean. Did it again on the way home. Refired immediately. I'm going to take a look at the ignition kill switch for corrosion. It literally feels like the kill switch was flipped. Ecm maybe?
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Dannybuell
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 07:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

mine did that on my 09cr with original HD battery. 2x last Saturday 1st 2up ride on the CR for longer than an hour. I was thinking an intermittent short in the battery. IDK ...
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My last ride where it happened battery voltage was 13.7. So far it has only happened in deceleration. I took the fairings off tonight and was wiggling anything I could find while it was idling. Ran fine. I checked every connection I could get my hands on as well. Surprised to see everything so clean considering I ride in the rain more than anyone I know. After all this I put it back together and went for a 45 minute ride circling around home. Of course it ran fine so I have learned nothing.
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 10:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well double checked the battery cable tightness and the negative side was able to be turned 1/2 turn. I have my doubts about this doing anything since the bike appeared to have full power but it couldn't hurt. I also have a comm error code and a low voltage code but I was stuck in rush hour a few days ago and my battery light briefly came on.
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Panshovevo
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 10:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any sign of arcing on the negative post or terminal?

Do you have a voltmeter to check the AC output of the stator?

You might want to check all the ground points on the chassis and engine.

(Message edited by Panshovevo on August 31, 2015)
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Monday, August 31, 2015 - 11:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No arcing on the terminal. I have a voltmeter but have no idea how to check the stator. More importantly, why would I be looking for this type of problem. The 3 grounds I found were tight
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Dannybuell
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2015 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

check the voltage regulator connections?
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Nuts4mc
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2015 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

go here: (see Nobuell's post of 9/13/14) the "bulkhead connector" that feeds the power through the frame to the pump was the problem.

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/745758.html?1412213667
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Rpm4x4
Posted on Tuesday, September 01, 2015 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure if I did anything at all but it seems to be running good still. Only time will tell
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Panshovevo
Posted on Wednesday, September 02, 2015 - 08:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Grounds can be tight and still not make good connection.

My 1125CR was running a little rough at low throttle settings when I got it. Nothing major, just noticeable.

I accessed the ECM to engine ground, for a different reason, found it clean and tight, but decided to run a separate ground wire back to the battery from that point.

For whatever reason, it runs noticeably smoother since then, enough that the wife remarked on it from the rear seat the first time I took her out on it after adding the ground.

My theory is that something on that circuit was causing electrical noise that was interfering with the ECM operation,
I base that on the factory wiring diagram showing two separate terminals with two wires each, but the harness has four wires in one connector,
I might be full of it, but that's the only thing I can think of.

Grounds are funny things...
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