G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through September 29, 2014 » Normal? engine noises. « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 05:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys. Hope everyone has been fairing well. Just wanted to post up with the "normal" (to me) sounds I hear when riding and see if any of them compare to what y'all hear. I figure diagnostically this may tune me into a problem I may or may not have in the near future.

So anyway, I typically hear my valves while running speeds up to about 60mph before they get drowned out by wind noise. I run a barker exhaust so I'm a little louder than stock. I was in the top of my engine about ~700 miles ago checking valve clearances and changing plugs. Valves were tight, but well in spec so I figured I would save the adjustment as a winter project and go from there.

I also tend to hear a dull tapping sound while running that seems to come from the air box area, and oddly enough it seems like it goes away when the tank is full. The sound is only under load and goes away when I pull the clutch in. I figure the full gas tank deadens some of the engine noise. As far as the sound goes I have always thought it was the timing chain rolling over the cam gears. I could be wrong.

The last thing I hear is a whining sound coming from the front end on deceleration. If I start using the front brake it goes away, so again I figured that was the brakes running on the floating rotor and application of the brakes tones it down. I know the wheel bearings are in good shape so I doubt its that. Its also not the same kind of whine.

I do have a video (admittedly poor quality, it was shot using my cell phone in my pocket) of me taking a short ride from the gas station to my house. If anyone would like to listen they can, but be warned as the wind noise is pretty bad for a good chunk of it. However you can hear the bike idle at the red lights as well as the valve noise at slow speeds.

As always, thanks guys.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nikoff90
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 07:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My engine sounds like coffee can full of loose nutsbeing cycled at any said rpm. loudest noise around 5K all disappears when you are on it hard. That is compared to say a modern inline four.

It all bothered me at first but than the power-wheelies make me forget all the rattle. Starting to come to terms with the rotor whine and find it helps to check your brakes once your tires warm by pulling the bike weight up into a stoppie or two. Sometimes they just happen by accident, at least that is what I heard from the guy that was counting them today riding behind me, I missed a few of the low 2" to 6" off the tarmac ones.

I was really a perimeter rotor hater I am now on the fence as the brake is grabby at times and pulses unless I am abusing it.

(Message edited by nikoff90 on September 28, 2014)

(Message edited by nikoff90 on September 28, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Rogue_biker
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your brakes are pulsing because it's either warped or has excessive uneven deposits. Replace the rotor and pads.

The mechanically loud engine is due to the finger followers used by Rotax when they designed the engine. Finger followers have short little arms the mount between the camshaft lobes and the actual valves. This allows shim replacement to be done without the removal of the camshaft. The downside is a louder valvetrain noise.

Most DOHC engines have direct actuation of the valves by the camshaft lobes. But these always use a shim under a bucket. So any shim replacement requires the removal of the camshaft. That's a real PITA when you have to do it yourself.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Mhpalin
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 10:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jordan yes replace the rotor if warped(unlikely) hone sand or bead blast your rotor and replace your pads if needed.
I bead blasted my rotor and replaced the pads with the EBC ones no more pulses.


Mike
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 10:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't have any pulsing of the brakes. No grabbiness or shaking while braking. Brand new EBC pads and the rotor still looks great. I do get a squealing from the rear brake when it gets really hot, but there is still plenty of pad left.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Two_seasons
Posted on Monday, September 29, 2014 - 02:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

One of my co-workers calls my 1125r a "box of rocks" when it's running.

I've noted this year that if I pull in my clutch it makes much less noise while idling. Maybe my cam chain guides are wearing out.

After I start my bike, I pull in the clutch and get a slow rolling start before I push it down into first gear. A lot less "clunk" that way!
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration