G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through June 17, 2014 » Stalling at idle/take off « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 07:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys. I know I'm asking a question that has been asked a lot, but I've tried everything I've read to no avail. EBR ECM + Barkers on my bike, and more often than I would like it dies either at idle or on take off. Runs great with the work I've been doing to it, starts great, but for some reason just dies erractly. Happened 3 times on my short stint to wally world this afternoon. 3 miles round trip. Once while running and backing it out of the garage, and twice while bumping the throttle at stop signs. Fuel pressure looks good, tps has been recalibrated, new battery, stator tested good, new plugs, and (I doubt it makes a difference) new sprag. Thanks guys.

-Chris
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Large throttle bodies. Don't blip the throttle.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2014 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had tech stall mine at a local track day when they were checking for a smooth throttle. They blipped it, and it died. Like Dean said, you just can't dump the throttle at idle. It dumps too much air at once for the fuel injection to keep up. If it is dying at other times, like when downshifting using the clutch, check your clutch switch for proper operation. You can do this through the diagnostic screen on the ECM. I found a sticking clutch switch on a buddy's 1125R that kept stalling on downshifts. I unplugged it, and the bike quit stalling. It did pretty much remove the engine braking, however. He is going to replace it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 05:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok I'll avoid blipping the throttle on my ride tomorrow. What about shutting off at idle though? I started my bike and let it warm up while I geared up yesterday...knocked off as soon as I tried to move it out of the garage. All leg power, didn't use the motor at all. It just idled.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Dhays1775
Posted on Wednesday, June 04, 2014 - 10:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tried doing a tps reset to see if that helps?

Also, that's the reason I don't rev the engine. Also because all the squids around here do it enough. And, the RT-3 is a little on the loud side...

edit: sorry, I just saw that you reset the TPS.


(Message edited by dhays1775 on June 04, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pmjolly
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 12:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the idle is slowing down and it is dying, you might need to clean the idle air control. A few sprays of B12 Chemtool fixed mine when it would idle slow then stall. Just spray some fuel injector cleaner down the little rubber hose that sticks up into the bottom of the airbox near the throttle bodies on the right side. You can also get at it inside the throttle bodies. Be very careful. Cover everything and wear safety glasses. If you spray it in there, then start it, it will likely spit it back out at you and everything else. Injector cleaner will attack powder coating and plastics. I sprayed it in the IAC, then started it. It shot out like Old Faithful. It worked better spraying it with it running.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Georgehitch17
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mine used to do the same thing. I was told to unplug the cable that tells the bike when the clutch is engaged located underneath the switches on the right side handle bar. You wont be able to start the bike when its in neutral but it stopped dying at every take off. I'm not sure what it changed but it helped big time on mine. I thought maybe it was in my head but if any shop every plugs it in I can tell in a thirty minute ride that its been messed with!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do you have pics or a description of the location of that plug? Is it possible you mean the clutch interlock switch? That's the only one I can think of, but its on the left, not the right.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on June 05, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 07:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update. My bike now shuts off at EVERY take off. I've made it 12 feet out of my garage. I tried unplugging the clutch interlock, and the bank angle sensor. No luck. My best description of what's happening is; start the bike, drop in gear, start to let clutch out, begin to roll about 3 inches, bike dies. I even tried taking off at different RPMs. No difference.

(Message edited by brokenGQ on June 05, 2014)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 08:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Disregard gentlemen. Problem has been tracked down. Here's a hint. It only happened when I turned right. I'm an idiot. Thanks for your help though!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

J20td
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 08:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So what was it?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2014 - 08:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well my reasoning now is a broken wire in the ignition switch. The bike runs and idles fine. If you turn the handlebars right, it shuts off. I managed to take it for a little spin after my first post tonight. Just went around the neighborhood. Funny thing is, all the turns to go around my neighborhood are lefts, until the last one. When I went to make that right, it died. Started to click in my head. Out of the 3 stop signs it died at the other day, 2 were rights. One I was going straight. Its dark and late now, and the warden (fiancee) is getting mad at me for playing too much and making her wait 3 hours for dinner (Lol). I'll play with it tomorrow.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 12:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

go here ...scroll down for pix:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/688333.html

or you can add wires to the harness to allow for the "stretch"
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Nuts4mc. Can anybody think of anything else it could be/that I should look at while I have the fairing off?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nuts4mc
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 04:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"grounds" - check your grounds - there is one connection (call a spade a spade or call it a "flag") "on" the steering head "casting"...couldn't find you a pix - but it is there...when you remove the fairing mount from the frame you may see it....

I went with a belt and suspenders approach...scroll down for pix and P/Ns

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/674577.html
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 04:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Classic symptom. You will likely find a wire internally broken (insulation still intact) in the bundle going out under the steering head and under the frame.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Two_seasons
Posted on Friday, June 06, 2014 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Warden, now that there is funny...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Brokengq
Posted on Saturday, June 07, 2014 - 12:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reepischeep, close. The wire was broken inside the switch itself. All the strands were still attached at the solder joint, the wire and insulation were both broken about 3/8" away from the joint. Fix was to desolder the original joint, and solder in a new 1.25" piece of wire. Soldered the new wire to the old and heat shrunk. Reassembled and filed down the fairing stay where the wires contact it. Took it for a short spin and all seems well. If it ever breaks again I'll probably remove the entire switch and solder in longer heavier gauge wires.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration