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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Stator/Voltage Regulator/Charging System subforum » Voltage Regulator Check « Previous Next »

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Fubuloubu
Posted on Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 12:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've been having problems with charging on my '08 over the past month, basically since I started riding this season. I started getting low voltage indications (a few codes that could be caused by low voltage), rough operation, choppy lighting and power, and sometimes difficulty turning over. It's probably important to note I ripped the whole bike apart for checking the valves this past winter by doing the frame removal method, so my wiring harness is also possibly suspect.

So far I've done some of the tests the electrical manual has suggested in 3.3 CHARGING SYSTEM DIAGNOSTICS. I've gotten acceptable results with Stator Ground check (Open Loop on all 3 wires), Loop to Loop Resistance (~0.3 Ohms between each set of wires), and Stator Voltage (~55 VAC at 3k RPM). As far as I can tell, the Stator seems okay. I did the milliamp draw test and got 1.5 mA, which seems to be in spec (but I can't tell if the limit should be 1 or 3 mA from the manual)

I've also tested the battery by taking it out and charging it, then leaving the battery overnight with no electrical contact to anything. Measured in the morning, and the battery seems to hold it's voltage at ~13 VDC. I just replaced the battery last year in July with a new Interstate YTX14L-BS, so I'd hope the battery isn't dead. I'm going to run to Autozone sometime soon and see if they can do their free load test on the battery to double check it.

I was looking at some of the videos about regulators from this page: http://www.roadstercycle.com/Roadstercycle.com%20V ideos.htm
which was recommended from the following thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/717789.html?1375036151

Running the Diode Check test he's talking about, I get the following results:
Positive-Positive: OL, OL, OL
Positive-Negative: 0.471, 0.475, 0.472 V
Negative-Positive: 0.164, 0.168, 0.165 V
Negative-Negative: 0.979, 0.981, 0.980 V

where the first connection describes which lead is touching the reg terminal, and the second describes which reg terminal is being touched by the lead. From what he said in the video, this seems to suggest the reg is bad because neg-neg should be OL, not 0.98 V

The regulator case has a good connection to chassis ground. I don't think I have the means to do the Voltage Output test, so at this point I am about 50% confident that the regulator is bad, with the possibility the battery is dead or my wiring is messed up from the winter.

If anyone has any suggestions of further tests I could run to prove it's one thing over the other, I would appreciate any ideas of what to do next. I'm hoping to figure this out in the upcoming week because I am going to the track in 3 weekends from now, and moving to a different place within the week.
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Mhpalin
Posted on Sunday, May 25, 2014 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check your grounds

Mike
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Fubuloubu
Posted on Monday, May 26, 2014 - 12:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I checked resistance of chassis to negative battery contact and starter casing, about as low as I can reliably measure (~0.1-0.2 Ohms), so I think the grounds are okay (at least cold and not running)

Really wish there was a better test with the regulator to know what is going on with it.
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