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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through June 17, 2014 » Voltage is 12.0 after Hot Shot stator/EBR rotor..? « Previous Next »

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Buellsruell
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 04:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just did the high temp stator, EBR rotor, 2.8qts of fresh Amsoil, K n N oil filter. After idling for about 15min, I got down to 12.0 volts at 208deg then I shut it off. Idle was about 1300rpm or so. Light never came on, but I was quite disappointed to see such a low voltage reading after doing all this. : (

I really don't know if it's had the harness "upgrade", but I was told by the PO that is did.

-I did not ride the bike yet to check voltage while riding.

-I have the stock ECM with an FMF Apex pipe, but EBR ECM is coming in the mail.

-It's around 82deg here in NY today.

-The stock stator didn't look too bad yet at 8200mls (I can post pics if anyone is curious). I did this for "peace of mind" as I know it was just a matter of time. I did see some voltage readings in the high 11's last Fall on a warm day sitting in traffic (the light came on intermittently).

So is this normal, or should I be looking into replacing the voltage regulator or something next??

Thanks for all your help.

---
EDIT: I apologize if I put this in the wrong section. I just noticed the "sub forum"...sorry!

(Message edited by BuellsRuell on May 11, 2014)
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Brokengq
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

From my understanding (which is very little) when idling at high temp with the cooling fans running, 12.0 is close to normal. Lots of draw from those fans when at idle speed.

Take the bike for a ride and see what it does.

My bike is at 12.2 when idling with fans on. When running down the road I'm at 13.7-14.2 depending on speed.
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Fkranich23
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 07:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello,

Yes, I have just installed the same set up. EBR rotor and a hot shot stator. I have had the same results.

The bike will start off at about 13.3-13.5 range at idle and 14.2-14.5 when at speed around 3500 rpm. After about 10mins on bike volts drop to around 12.0-12.2v at idle and 12.5 when running. I plan on pulling the cooling fan fuse to see if that's whats killing my voltage output or if it's something else.

Thank You.

Fred K.
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep with the fans going and everything nice and hot it can drop into the 12v range still, nothing to worry about. I would remove that harness assembly, as when it shuts down a phase you only have 1/3 of the total capacity, you will see lower voltages more frequently.

One thing I did on my bikes was increased the fan temperature thresholds about 10 degrees each, the fan kicks on less often when cruising, and helps keep the battery voltage up. I have an 08 stator in my setup, since they have less output I feel it helps keep the battery charged.
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Buellsruell
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 08:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for all the replies!

I did take it for a spin for a few miles, and the voltage was about the same as it's been: 14-13 or so riding, and dropping down from the high to mid 12's at stop lights.

I guess as long as it never goes BELOW 12v, I will be happy : )

...and I'm sure I won't ever have to sit idling for 10-15min in the REAL world, anyway. There's a traffic light near me that NEVERRRR turns green for me (unless a car pulls up behind me- rare), but I don't sit there like an idiot for 5min anymore, waiting for a green that never happens...I just look and GO now. Hey- I wonder what the *LAW* says about that?? But I digress...

I will have to look into the harness next, thanks Frank. I have no idea what it looks like, but I will search like a good Bueller...
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Noobuel
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 09:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you tested the battery by itself? I had issues after my swap as well, turned out to be the battery was on its VERY last leg. Probably due to having to suffer through the failed stator for a long period of time.
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

This video shows how to bypass the harness and go back to stock, you can leave it in but disconnected or totally remove it if you desire.
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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Fkranich23
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 10:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I pulled my fan fuse and took her for a nice backroads ride. The lowest voltage observed was around 12.7v at idle at a stoplight. it stated in the 14.1-14.3v while riding for the most part.

Froggy- How do you raise the temperature the fans turn on at. With the fuse in the fans are running around 75% of the time which is unnecessary when your cruising at 40mph.
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Dhays1775
Posted on Sunday, May 11, 2014 - 11:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The fans run on high speed because after about 40mph they actually block air if not running, causing the bike to run hotter.

Fkranich23, did you happen to check coolant temps when you did this test?
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yep the fans are needed at 40mph, they don't have enough airflow to overcome the resistance the non running fans introduce. At 70mph they aren't really needed much as long as it isn't super hot out. Track bikes with fans removed don't have this airflow issue.

I used TunerPro and found the fan settings for Key on Engine on, if I remember right I increased them 10°C, which makes them kick on at 192°F. The bike does run a little warmer overall, but nothing major, and I can see the fans kick on in the low 190s then they shut back off shortly later once it drops down to the low 180s. I did this at least 2 years ago, I have experienced no issues, fans still do their job even in traffic.
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Sinnister
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

An 09 with an upgraded rotor and stator should not be close to 12.0 volts. I've rode at 90 degrees sitting at a dead stop and idling my voltage never dips below 13.9 with the fans going full out. 12.0 volts is just super low. I could understand if you had an 08 with the lower output charging system but an 09 that just doesn't sound right. I'd think about upgrading your voltage regulator just for peace of mind.
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Baf
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I agree, you should be way higher than 12v. At idle without fans running, you should have never gotten down to 12.7v.

Personally, I'd pull the harness "upgrade" and toss a CE-605SB regulator on. With that setup on mine, I don't think I ever saw it drop below 13.5v or so, and that was while idling in traffic for a while on a hot day.
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Fkranich23
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2014 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just to clarify my set up is as follows:

EBR rotor-
Ricks motorsport Hot Shot series stator-
Roadstercycle.com FA012AA rectifier/regulator-
Newer yusa Battery-

The "upgraded h-d" harness was installed but removed.

Coolant is slightly above the full level in the reservoir. Coolant shouldn't be the issue.

I contacted Ricks motorsports and they are making me a custom wound stator from a stock 2009 1125R core they have lying around. Lets see if that does the trick...
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Fluffy282
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 06:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In regards to the video, do you just leave the "fix" unplugged (as they are when the video ends) or do you connect the ends that I assume are now dead?
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Buellsruell
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 06:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just installed the EBR race ECM for FMF, idled bike for 10min after as per instructions, volts were down to 11.9 at 173deg. Fans were on.

I did not have a chance to look into the harness but will do that now...

Thanks for all the replies.
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Buellsruell
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2014 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AHHHhhh' yes...harness "fix" removed, idling at 14.0+ now.

Thanks for the help, guys!! : )
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