G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile


Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through March 11, 2014 » Stator legs -- inputs to rectifier « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2014 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are the pin numbers important or is just AC?

Noticed my connector shorts out (black arc residue everywhere) and I forgot to write the pin numbers on the leads before I disassembled it. DOH!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nuts4mc
Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2014 - 02:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AC
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tbowdre
Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2014 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not important... Although there was time when a theory floated around that you could have the HD bandaid relay shut off the leg that was at the 12 o clock position. The thought was that this would be the hottest leg and it would contribute the most heat and damage to the stator.

whatever
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Saturday, January 18, 2014 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

race bike... whatever is right!

Thanks guys.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pmjolly
Posted on Sunday, January 19, 2014 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know if it matters with the voltage regulator, but in a three phase system, if you swap two legs, you reverse phase rotation. I'd say if it does not work right, swap two wires from the stator. It does not matter which two.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jaredc01
Posted on Tuesday, January 21, 2014 - 07:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pmjolly, you are correct about a 3-phase motor being reversed, but it makes no difference for the stator.

A 3-phase stator just reduces low points in the AC waveform (since they're all at offset intervals), so there's no need for a large capacitor to offset the gaps in AC waves (hence why there isn't one on the bike). Which way they are hooked up makes no difference since they're all offset equally to each other.

For an interesting fun fact, since the bike also uses a rectifier (the regulator and rectifier are built into one unit), it also flips the polarity when the AC wave is running in the negative voltage range, therefore turning it into a positive voltage, meaning there are effectively six charging pulses per cycle (two per phase) to give a steady output to the regulator without the capacitor as mentioned above. It's a pretty cool system for how old the technology is.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 08:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll try and post a photo of what my connector looked like. There was obvious arcing around one of the connections, and the copper itself was corroding and splitting!

Gross...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Pmjolly
Posted on Wednesday, January 22, 2014 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It was probably just a loose connection. A loose connection can cause enough heat to melt the plastic connectors.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Cataract2
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 06:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

+1 to the loose connection. I had that happen on mine when the tab that was suppose to hold the connector together broke and the connector separated just a hair.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Clearly it was loose, or there would not be arcing!

But, what happened is over time the connector had become corroded. So, once separated and then reassembled, one of the pins was loose inside an otherwise correctly reassembled connection. It wiggled, sparked, melted some shit, kept sparking, got worse, and so on! My regulator is the original (!) from '08 on this bike if you can believe that!

The insulation leading up to the connector is all hard and crusty and cracking, too. The leads going into the crimps are green and crusty with corrosion!

I'm going to cut it back to bare wire, put heat shrink on top of the old insulation, and put a new connector body on it with a soldered assembly in addition to crimp. Should be good for racing, especially since I take the bike apart twice a year.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Nuts4mc
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 10:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JD...you might want to wrap the new connector in some fibre glass insulation (braided type...NOT the Pink Panther stuff...or buy some silicone rubber sheet/tubing (McMstr-C)and insulate (wrap it around)the union)as the shorter those leads get....the closer it gets to the exhaust...and the heat from the pipe.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jdugger
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 10:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good call. That's probably what's cooking the insulation...
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Oldog
Posted on Thursday, January 23, 2014 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim the poor connection is causing the current to go up and causing the heating ( unless the connector is a lot lower than the one on my bike )

cutting the wires back to clean copper and re-terminating is the correct fix.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional.
Password:
E-mail:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration