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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through November 11, 2010 » 620 miles oil change: no mess! « Previous Next »

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Crazyhawk99
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 05:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks to reading historical posts beforehand and heeding the many tips, I am happy to report that not one drop of oil hit the garage floor, nor the sidestand, nor OEM muffler. Some people used aluminum foil to wrap the sidestand. I went with plastic wrap instead and decided to use a strip of duct tape under the oil filter as indicated below.

For those interested, here is a nutshell of what I did. I tried to write it in the exact order. Sorry, I didn't take any pics.

- Bike on rear stand
- ran engine for approx 5-10 mins to warm oil
- Wrapped paper towel (to soak up oil that may get by) around top of sidestand at pivot.
- wrapped sidestand full length with kitchen saran-wrap (plastic wrap)overlapping the paper towel, securing all with duct tape
- ran horizontal strip of duct tape under oil filter housing, making a lip at bottom edge to keep oil from running down bottom of engine/onto muffler
- wedged 2 long pieces of aluminum foil under engine on each side of sidestand to keep oil off of muffler
- loosened oil filler cap to allow venting
- drained oil from right side engine drain
- with sidestand retracted, drained left side engine drain. held drain pan up close to drain at first to keep it from overshooting the pan.
- loosened oil filter housing to allow oil to drain. after majority drained, removed housing and then old filter.
- re-installed new filter and housing.
- loosely replaced both left and right engine drains.
- took bike off of rear stand
- removed right side engine drain, tilted bike to the right as much as possible and held it there until oil was only a slow drip
- removed left side engine drain and placed bike on sidestand to further drain left side.
- replaced both engine drains and tightened.
- removed all tape, etc... and poured in 2.7 qts per the manual. after riding today, I will park to do a good cold level check and add more oil if needed.

That's it! Hope some find it useful.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 09:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Most accurate is the arcane but requisite Hot Check.
Cold check is very coarse, basically - "Do I have any oil?"..

Zack
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Jdugger
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2010 - 10:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Drop the filter, both drain bolts AND the motor screen.

Replace, safety wire and dump 3qts and fuhghetabouddit until she doesn't shift perfectly smooth again.

Repeat.

I don't EVER check the oil now.
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Crazyhawk99
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 03:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I added the 2.7 qts per the manual and rode it to work yesterday (24 miles round trip). When I got home last night, I put it on the rear stand immediately after shutting it down and checked the oil this morning first thing and there was NONE showing on the dipstick. I added the remaining 0.3 qts for a total of 3 qts now. I'll check it again tomorrow after repeating the above.

Question, since the rear of the bike is approx 2-3 inches higher than the front, will that throw off the dipstick reading significantly?

I didn't know to clean the motor screen. I'll try and remember that next time.

I will say, the shifting is MUCH smoother with the Amsoil 20W50, compared to whatever the dealer put it in. I think the motor even feels a little smoother.
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 07:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> I will say, the shifting is MUCH smoother with the Amsoil 20W50,

Like tires, don't make the mistake of comparing new oil to old oil of the other brand.
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Crazyhawk99
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 08:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Like tires, don't make the mistake of comparing new oil to old oil of the other brand.


JD,
I am not selling Amsoil. No selfish plug from me. Just stating what I believe is a fact. The oil I drained had 607 miles on it. Regardless of brand or grade, which I am unsure of, the bike shifts much smoother. I didn't say this oil was better than what came out, only that the bike shifts better, which without a doubt, it does.


I do understand your tire reference, as most new tires are compared to the worn, squared off tires they replaced and it is hard to not improve on that.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Tuesday, November 02, 2010 - 09:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Crazy - bike should be completely level.
side-to-side AND front-to-back.
Don't check the level on the rear stand.

Do the hot check, to the LETTER.

Ride at least 10 miles
Stop, idle for 3 minutes holding the bike straight up, not on stand.
Shut off motor, continue holding straight up for 3 minutes
Check oil while continuing to hold the bike straight up and level.

When adding oil, do so in small increments, 200ml IIRC.
Any full synthetic will be good once broken in, I run Red Line 10W-40 year-round just north of Denver.
I ride every day there's not snow/ice on the road.

Z
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