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Buell Forum » THUMPer Forum » Buell Blast Thumper Knowledge Vault » BodyParts-Seats, Fairings,Lights,Pegs,Rear Sets, Bars, Grips, Clip ons, Mods » Buell Blast Rearsets « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Considering making rearsets?? and clip-onsJohn_the_chimp82 07-15-12  02:55 am
Archive through January 17, 2009Ezblast30 01-17-09  01:30 am
Archive through August 03, 2008Gearheaderiko30 08-03-08  10:00 pm
Archive through June 12, 2008Rockstarblast130 06-12-08  07:24 am
Archive through February 20, 2008Phoebe30 02-20-08  10:27 am
Archive through April 04, 2007Gearheaderiko30 04-04-07  06:47 pm
Archive through June 05, 2006Jugallo9430 06-05-06  06:22 pm
Archive through October 14, 2005Gearheaderiko30 10-14-05  09:17 pm
Archive through February 24, 2005Naustin30 02-24-05  07:29 pm
Archive through May 21, 2004Gearheaderiko30 05-21-04  12:01 pm
Archive through September 24, 2003Jamaicadog30 09-24-03  10:18 am
Archive through July 20, 2003Carcass30 07-20-03  02:06 am
Archive through October 08, 2002Jaweenee4613 10-08-02  06:54 pm
         

CrossRoads makes two versions - high (3" & 9" back) and
reg. (2" & 8" back) position

Banke makes two versions - black or metalic - height adjustable - stock up to 1 1/2"( & 9" back) up upon request.

See our sponsers for obtaining - and enjoy!

application/pdf
rearsets brackets-smaller.pdf (154.8 k)

It has to print on 8.5x14" sheets.

Tubular steel racing pegs -

universal Pegs: (foot pegs that just need a hole for the bolt to go through parallel the peg - screwing into the peg) - LHS - RC51, R6(99-05), F4, F4i. BOTH SIDES: EX500, GS500, F2, F3, NT650, MILLE/R, FACTORY/R, 750/900SS (91-98)
CFMotorsports - 06-0300 - Standard Footpeg (BH bolt)

However, for those inclined to do homemade - James and I both have made instructions for making your own - Enjoy!
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/222428.html?1149546134
XB shifter linkage:
N0320.02A8 SHIFT LINKAGE ASSEMBLY,
N0630.02A8A SHIFT PEDAL ASSEMBLY
T0225.02A8 LEVER, SHIFT, ENGINE
H0503.T BRAKE PEDAL PIVOT SLEEVE
AN1008.2CXZB bolt (1)
AN1006.2CXZB (2)
Depth for the shifter boss hole is 3/4"
10 ftlbs torque for 1/4" shifter bolt
Revised parts and price list:
XB Shifter parts list in this tread an order one from C. H-D and i see people pay stupid money for these on ebay an you can get a brand new one ship to your door for under 100 bucks! Sweet!!
Chicago H-D and Lake Shore H-D give you 20% off all the time for online orders the only two i deal with here's my bill.

Chicago Harley-Davidson
------------------------------------------------------
Products
------------------------------------------------------
1 x AN1009.2CXZB (AN1009.2CXZB) = $3.04
1 x N0630.02A8A (N0630.02A8A) = $22.36
1 x N0599.02A8A (N0599.02A8A) = $5.88
2 x AN1006.2CXZB (AN1006.2CXZB) = $4.64
1 x N0320.02A8 (N0320.02A8) = $23.80
1 x T0225.02A8 (T0225.02A8) = $22.36
1 x CA0015.02A8 (CA0015.02A8) = $3.20
------------------------------------------------------
Sub-Total: $85.28
Standard Shipping (Standard Domestic Shipping with Insurance. (International shipping determined and charged at time of shipment)): $8.50
Total: $93.78

Author Message
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Al_lighton
Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 06:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Update: The Blast Crossroads rearsets are FINALLY back, and I have a bunch in stock. They come with the billet pro-series pegs, and I've lowered the price a little.

See http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6765.html

Order away, this will probably be the last batch that ever get built, but we probably have at least a years supply.

Al
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Crackhead
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 09:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

would it be possable to flip the mounting brackets for the Crossroads set over? So there isn't the raise to the pegs?
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Looking at them - I'd say no.
EZ
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Phoebe
Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys, I've been looking everywhere trying to find this, but with no luck. What's the torque value for the Xb shifter pivot bolt? I don't want to over-tighten it in the Blast's primary case. Thanks!

Phoebe
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Phoebe
Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 06:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nevermind guys, I was able to find it in a pdf. In case anyone wants to know, it's 22-24 ft/lbs.

Phoebe
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

10 ft lbs!(or less)
24 ft lbs will strip it. The only other applicable torque would be from the XB repair manual (which I cant find) and I doubt its much more, even with the 5/16" bolt.
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Milt
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 09:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking about making rearsets for my Blast this winter.

I'm looking for aluminum online. Is there any particular alloy I should look for or avoid?

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html/aluminum/defaul t.htm
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Its bound to be the cheap stuff.
"onlinemetalsupply.com and got 6061-T6 aluminum.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/442102.html?1236700207
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Bottlefedbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 11:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Finally got to enjoy a 300 mile round trip ride this weekend!!!

Have to say the rear sets made a heck of a differance in posture and handling with minimal loss of comfort.

I now find myself just throwing the bike into corners w/o worry and sometimes even
shifting half way through to kick the rear out for fun and giggles....

With the DragSpec SuperBars, I can still lock steering and sit a lot more forward.

This bike now truly gives me the opinion that:
"Objects in mirror - No Longer Matter!!"



Shift side

Brake side
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 12:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very nice!
What did you use to cut them out?

I bet it shifts a whole lot better now too ; )
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Bottlefedbuell
Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I took the time to make AutoCad files
and piped them into a Laser-Mill at my buddys Machine shop. Tig welded some 1/2 tube spacers, a little smoothing and polishing and presto...

The AutoCad files are available FREE to anyone that wants them. Just PM me.

My buddy will cut them out for you too, since program is already loaded.

Purchase price at Custom Form (my buddy's shop)
6061 1/4" Alum Plate 12x18" - @$50
And he charges about $25 to cut and deburr

The laser cuts with a bevel @10degrees
so you do have to take the time to clean edges.

I also had him just burn a dot through the mounting holes and I drill pressed the final holes where they needed to be.

The spacers I cut to fit on a Bridgeport
before tig'n them in. I suggest having a local shop do that for you, as I'm sure
not all Blasts have exact same specs for these holes, especially the brake side.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice job!
EZ
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Thump
Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 07:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those look pretty sweet! I already have a some aftermarket rear sets, but a big THANK YOU for saving your work so the rest of us can benefit.

Only if there was some way of getting rid of that dead weight plastic behind the carb....
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Jack_crank
Posted on Wednesday, August 25, 2010 - 12:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those are fantastic. PMed about a set. I'm stoked for some winterwork.
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Fathermike
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 03:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok, finally going to tackle my footpeg problem to get rid of the y arms. before i start i have one question, ok maybe 2.

first and foremost, relocating the brake pedal. this involves also relocating the brake cylinder & cutting the brake line. i've never dealt with brake lines other than just bleeding them. what do i need to know?

second, any sources for threaded rod? i need 10 and/or 12mm about 30cm long. i think it would be better to use grade 8 if cheap enough but i can't spend more than $20 on these parts. i'm using the bikemaster buddy pegs...for cost reasons. the 10mm has a 1.25 pitch. i'm having a hard time finding any matching hardware...rod, coupling nuts, etc. i haven't bought the 12mm ones yet but if the pitch ends up 1.75 there seem to be a couple sources of hardware to match that.
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Home Depot or Lowes!
EZ
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Fathermike
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 05:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

have i been shunned? no advice about the brakes?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 06:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DO NOT cut the brake line.* Either bend it (I've bent them to fit rear sets and back to stock) or get a braided steel line. A front line can be substituted since it doesnt have a hard line it can be bent to fit, but you'll loose the brake light switch (there are remedies for that too). You might consider swapping out a braided steel line in the front and using the stock rubber front line in the rear.


*Sure you can use compression fittings to put the line back together. Not the best idea for used lines or brake lines, but it can be done.
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Ezblast
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 09:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL - I missed that - sorry - touchy aren't we?......We've only ever shunned two Blastards I have ever known - a captain David, and a guy named Ralph - both had very negative attitudes, had a problem of belittling everyone else's opinion, and generally refused to play nice in the sand boxes - needless to say you don't qualify for their status. Relax - we're all Blastards here.
EZ
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Fathermike
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)


Yep, you hit the nail on the head Ed. I am uber-sensitive...

ya right

guess I was too brief for my own good and failed to deliver the dry, sarcastic wit I'm known for. Trust me, I'm just glad this board exists and you guys are so helpful. To be honest, it could be taken wrong by someone who would easily get accustomed to all your super fast responses if you ever did slip & not have all the answers!!
Thanks Erik for the info but I'm not sure I fully understand it all. The rubber on the rear that connects the hard line to the caliper, is that the same kind of hose as on the front? What about cutting that to take up the slack? I'm guessing there is some physics of hydraulics that involves the different compounds & combinations of materials. What does the braided line do besides look pretty? I know about braided wire versus say, twisted, stranded, solid-core etc. but that's electricity and/or tensile strength. I know very little about hydraulics. I know viscosity plays a role and so forth but that's it, just general stuff.
Thanks again and in advance.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The rear brake line is one continuous piece which is rubber at the caliper and turns to solid metal at the fitting in the middle which the brake light switch screws into. Steel braided line seems to be the most easily found in custom sizes or a Blast replacement. I'm sure you could have a rubber one made up too.

The rear brake however is mostly useless for any real stopping. It locks up easily under hard braking.

Since the front does all the real stopping, a braided steel line up front can definitely improve things and it is available as a stock Blast part (2000 model year) or as a replacement Blast specific part from Galfer and maybe others.
The front brake line is also one piece and can be substituted in place of the rear brake line. Its all rubber (except the ends) so it can be routed anywhere. However it does not have the junction for the brake light switch. That can be replaced by a pull switch or a switch at the master cylinder or just left out. The front brake has a switch and you'll be using that anyway.

So....if you are going to be replacing one brake line with a braided steel line (and you want to save money) the front is where to put it. Looks nice on the rear, but its pointless for performance.

*It has been a few years since I fitted a front brake line on the rear. I'm pretty sure there isnt a problem, but I'd fit it first. Also, the front brake is darn near impossible to bleed. So dont be surprised if it doesnt bleed easily.

(Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 04, 2011)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PS Cutting the brake line isnt necessary or advised.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 02:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bravo! Well said!
EZ
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Phoebe
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 08:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's the easiest solution: use the front stainless braided line that was on the early Blasts, but put it on the back. If you want to retain a brake light switch on the rear brake, use a banjo bolt pressure switch instead of the normal banjo bolt. Easy peasy.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, the easiest solution is to just use the stock rear brake line that came with the bike!
The only reason to trade front and rear lines and buy the steel braided line is for better braking up front and cost savings of not buying 2 brake lines.
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Fathermike
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok now I'm confused more. Erik, I thought you said not to use the rear line? OK, you said don't cut it but how can all that metal tube line be bent? It seems like it would kink or something as there is a lot to get out of the way. It looks like I can get a used stock front line for like $13 w/ shipping incl. If there is a cheaper/easier alternative please let me know. Braided line looks like $40 minimum. I'm not normally so cheap but am broke right now.
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Ezblast
Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What you do is gently flex the line into the position you want, then bolt the cylinder down, then, loosen the line banjo bolt to take tension off the line, then tighten back up.
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 01:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur! Use the rear line, bend gently in an arc, not a hard right angle. Seems like a lot of line, but it really isnt. Thats the cheapest way to go. I've used the stock rear lines for rearsets and bent them back for Y-frames and bent them back again for rearsets. You dont actually need to loosen the banjo bolt either!

I'm sorry. I tend to give a lot more information than whats really needed. EZ's good with the one liners. I need paragraphs!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 01:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a picture of a set with the stock brake line bent. Thats about as tight a bend as you can make without crimping the line.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/290322.jpg
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Schmokin
Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 03:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Recently wrecked my 2008 Blast and repairing is turning out to be a bit expensive.

Is there a cheaper alternative to the stock part # L2132.TA while maintaining stock footpeg position? I imagine if I bent it back into a somewhat normal position it would compromise the integrity of the metal?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 09:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bend it back. If it's too badly twisted, you likely have more issues.
Used can be had on eBay, but very few are straight. One drop and they can bend.
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Schmokin
Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 06:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not too bad. The passenger peg side is maybe only an inch away from normal, the rider peg is probably 2" bent in towards the engine and slightly twisted.
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