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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 11:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

How long and what size ends and banjo washers should I use to convert the steel line in the rear to braided steal? And do I have to jump the rear brake light sensor so its not constantly on from lack of sensor input?
GT - JBOTDS! EZ
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Buellistic
Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 07:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ezblast:

Let's not make a big project out of this !!!

Use NAPA Brake Line Fitting PN WH62X3 at
$2.32 ea. ...

Get a front brake line off a Sportster/Big Twin as the banjo fittings are the same ...

This what "i" did for PRODUCT IMPROVED rear brake line ...

"BUT" if you have to have BRAIDED for "PRETTY" ...

In BLASTing
LaFayette
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 07:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Cant help you with size, but you can use a front line on the rear and all 4 banjo bolts are the same. So if you've got a spare front or rear line a shop can match it up for you (and it should cost the same or less than a stock line).

Brake switch isnt a big deal just jump it or leave it alone (whichever leaves the light off).

If you want me to look up the master cylinder mounted switch I will, but I'm sure Buellistic has the part number.

If I come across the sizes I'll let you know.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2007 - 08:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Thanks guys - in the nick of time!
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Totolandman
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 09:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ez or Gearheaderiko,

Bike is in the shop getting a ton done and decided to get the HP brake fluid and EBC sintered brake pads all the way around! Since I am going to all this trouble I want to install a front and rear braided stainless steel brake lines. Any advise on what parts I need to order to accomplish this would be greatly appreciated.
If you have part number and or manufacturer information it would be very helpful!

Cheers,

Robb (aka totolandman)
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 10:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

H0531.B front 2000yr steel brake line is still available!
A 30" line using the smaller Sportster banjo bolts (only 2 sizes) works for the rear - eliminating the rear brake sensor. I would sugest a fork brace as well - American Sport Bike sells them.
EZ
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Muckerpuck
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 12:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

love to see everyone gettin along....

and are the braided lines a worthy upgrade, i suppose it helps squishi-ness in the brakes... squishi-ness lmao.... and were are you connecting your brake light switch 2...?

(Message edited by muckerpuck on March 19, 2008)

(Message edited by muckerpuck on March 19, 2008)
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 01:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

If you get the front line, then I would recommend the fork-brace as well, because in the wet you can feel the brake pull in front on the one side - lol
EZ
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Totolandman
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 01:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ez,
I am taking your recommendation and I have ordered the fork brace from American Sport Bike. I ordered the H0531.B from Iron Machine. As for the 30" line I will let me shop provide that and get the appropriate Sportster Banjo fittings from Goodridge since the front braided SS line is made by Goodridge. If the back solid steel brake line is replaced with the SS brake line what impact does this have on the brake light switch? I saw in some of the threads that there is a mod required there as well? Any insight further would be greatly appreciated.

PS

You have been a wealth of knowledge for me and my Blast project! This is by far one of the most informative forums I have ever been a member of!

Cheers,

totolandman
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Totolandman
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just an FYI H0531.B is NOT the a Stainless Steel front brake line. I attempted to order today and was told that this part number is for a rubber line. I guess I will have to just ask my shop to have some custom made for the front and the rear.
If you have another part number that is for the 2000 model year front brake line please let me know.

Regards,

totolandman
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 04:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

H0531.B - is the stock number for the front brake line in ss braided, he is looking at the numbers that superceeds it, which is the rubber brake line, maybe not using a 2000/2001 parts book. Its still orderable through Chicago HD - so the number is good.

If you go with the rear ss braided line - there is no way to hook up the rear sensor - most folks do without - I almost never use the rear anyway so no loss to me.

EZ
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Muckerpuck
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 04:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

ill bet if you really wanted the rear brake light to work you would have to put a micro switch on the brake pedal somhow...


so there is no other way to get that metal tube brake line out of there? what do the blasters big brothers do in this situation do they lose there rear brake lights also on braided line upgrades. do the bigger buells use a differnt pressure switch with connectors maybe?

and ez i think my brake switch plug came unplugged down there and my rear brake light just didnt work with the rear brake, front brake was fine. took me a while to track it down... so no i dont think youll even need a jumper


(Message edited by muckerpuck on March 19, 2008)
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Totolandman
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 05:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ez,

So will this brakeline work for the front?
http://www.sumofallparts.net/product_detail.aspx?i tem_guid=bfcebdf2-813b-48d8-8799-f98ab3cc57a8
Can you run a frontSS brake line on the front with a fork brace and the stock rear metal line/rubber combo with no issues?
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

yes!
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 07:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I think the front brake line will work on the back too. Fittings are the same.
I think its almost pointless to change out the rear to braided, unless you like the looks or need to replace a bad line. The rear brake is mostly useless under hard braking anyway. The front is definitely worthwhile. You can mix rubber/steel front to rear.

If you custom build the rear line and it can be fitted with a junction for the stock brake switch (thats what I used on the raceBlast when it was still street.)
You can also use an XB (and possibly other) brake switch instead which mounts off the master.
You can also fit an old style pull switch.
Or use none because the front does all the stopping anyway!
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

learn what RETRO-FITS ...
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Muckerpuck
Posted on Wednesday, March 19, 2008 - 08:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

i love decrypting bullistics jibber jabber.... nope still doesnt make sence..
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Phoebe
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2008 - 11:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Totolandman, did American Sport Bike tell you that the fork brace is not in stock? When I ordered from them in February, they told me it would be at least 6 weeks before they had any more fork braces in stock. I haven't heard from them since then.

Phoebe
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, March 21, 2008 - 08:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Actually American Sport Bike is tooling up to do several Crossroad style parts for the Blast - so I heard a couple weeks ago,
EZ
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Totolandman
Posted on Tuesday, March 25, 2008 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Phoebe,

American Sport Bike did tell me that the fork brace was not in stock and that they had some CAD work/changes that needed to be done before anymore could be made. So I bet we are looking at April or May timeframe until any are available.

Robb
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Ratsblast
Posted on Wednesday, March 18, 2009 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I wouldn't go through the trouble of doing ss rear lines unless I was going to offroad the bike. I have a 2000 with front stainless and rear rubber lines and I've locked the rear more than I'd like to mention. What is the point of going from rubber to ss braided lines? Are you trying to lower the compliance of the line? If it is for looks go for it, but I only will do something optional if it will improve performance. The stainless lines are eye candy, but I don't think it is going to improve anything in terms of braking.

Good luck!
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Bottlefedbuell
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 03:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Just recently performed some repairs in trade for an 03 Blast (with less than 100 original miles!!! Near Mint Condition) Was hoping the wife would want it. , spent the last 3 months reading this entire forum front to back..

HAVE TO SAY "BY FAR THE MOST INFORMATIVE RESOURCE EVER!!!"


Regarding switching to rear sets..

Is there any reason why we couldn't just reverse the rear brake line?
Mount the hard line side to the Rear Caliper and with minor bending.. Attach support bracket to swingarm or Tire Hugger, Then use Rubber side to go to Brake Pedal?

Its free, its Easy and no hunting for parts..

(Message edited by bottlefedbuell on June 23, 2010)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 05:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

I dont see any reason you cant and thats a great idea......except you'll be bending that line every time you do a tire or rear brakes. Whereas leaving it the other way, you'll rarely have to bend the line.
You can also use a front brake line in the rear. You'll have to relocate the brake light switch to the master cylinder or use a pull switch (if you care).

Thanks for the kind words (and to everyone who makes this site what is is) : )
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 06:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

PS Welcome to Badweb!

.....and what did you use to convert the "auto enrichener" (choke) to manual?
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Swampy
Posted on Wednesday, June 23, 2010 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Ooo! Ooo! another Michigan Blast rider!
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Bottlefedbuell
Posted on Thursday, June 24, 2010 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

In response to making a manual choke...

That was fun and interesting.
I basically used a throttle assy from a shindawa weed whip.
It was a perfect length already and had the throttle lock (to lock it in full choke) Only need it for cold starts.

Drilled a hole in the outside of the business end of the choke to mount the cable.

Had to test about twenty different springs
to get what I wanted for tension inside of the choke. Ended up using one on each side of the plunger to keep it snug.

Routed the cable under tank and into neck. Have it attached to the upright of the stock bars.
But when I get my rear sets done gonna have to use s/bike bars and figure out somewhere else to mount it...


Choke housing w/manual cable
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, June 25, 2010 - 12:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only)

Very nice.
I'd wondered if that was possible without mutilating the parts beyond usefulness. Any chance you might be able to post some part numbers or even more pictures? (I'm sure there are many who would like to do the same!)
From the looks of it, I think a regular Harley CV choke cable would also work (but I'm sure parts for a "shindawa weed whip" are much easier to find!) : )
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