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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through August 08, 2019 » 07 Ulysses xb12x starter » Archive through September 04, 2018 « Previous Next »

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Bfallon
Posted on Friday, June 08, 2018 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Question on 2007 Uly xb12x (1203-cc):
Is there a stock Harley starter kit that will work?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2018 - 09:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Apparently, all of these starters are the same as the sportster starters.
I replaced mine with a chinese copy from amazon and it worked mint on my 2008.
The stock Denso starter from H-D was over $300 as I recall.
This is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I13W4QQ/ref=o h_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
One thing I had to do was grind some clearance on the solenoid casting to make room for an oil line.

My stock 2008 starter was weak and pathetic since day one. I did finally die 2015 and that's when I replaced it. Cranks over like it should now.
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Bfallon
Posted on Saturday, June 09, 2018 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Natexlh1000. It is good to know the starter is so easily replaceable.
It's my first post to this forum. Very cool.
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 09:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Easy is one way to put it. I did my 08 at the same time. I bought the Chinese one off Amazon and guess what, I have the unlucky oil leak now too.

I’m 99% sure that the starter is leaking the primary oil out on the engine as it is soaked back int here and dripping down on the muffler.

The Chinese starter is worth the gamble as it is 1/3 the price, and you may get one that won’t leak. And if you have to replace it, you are still money ahead. But I don’t care to take mine apart again to fix it again.

It was a pain in the ass to get that starter in there. It just takes patience. I am honestly typing this from my garage as I hate the thought of pulling the primary open, and pulling that starter, just to put another back in there.

I prayed that it was the seal around the stator wire, just so that I could RTV it and not touch that damn starter. But oil is up on the starter leading to believe it’s the issue.

Don’t let me deter you from doing this, or hijack your thread. It was just odd coincidence that I am currently feeling the one pain of the Chinese starter.

Good luck
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 10:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Make sure it's not rocker box oil leaking down.

My 2008 starter project was not without its issues.
The first clowns that mailed my my Chinese starter used a single layer of newspaper to protect it in the box.
Came shattered to shit. Returned it for full refund and went to vendor I posted above.
Then after installation of the good one, had to grind the solenoid cover with a dremel to get the solid lines to fit.
finally, I had a pretty bad leak from the back of the starter. I found a big grain of sand in the gasket that I neglected to clean off. (my own lazy fault!)

Previous to that, I tried to fix the original starter so I had it out several times. I got like two more months on the original starter when I trued up and cleaned the solenoid contacts.
Then the sprag clutch crapped out.

So I am pretty good at removing and reinstalling my starter now.
Practice makes perfect : )
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Shoggin
Posted on Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 05:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's simply an issue of the starters front pinion bearing being sealed or not.

You can get the Chinese starter (even the higher kW one) and put the Harley sportster bearing in it for no leaks.

FYI, You can check it even before you install it, by taking off the nose cone and filling it with oil. If it leaks, get the right bearing, if not you're GTG!
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Uly_dude
Posted on Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the extra input around starters. I ended up paying for the new one from St Paul HD. I'm hoping I never have to do this repair again. Bad design in having to take all this apart just to unbolt a starter. Oh well, part of the charm every spring!

I'll let you know how the repair goes after I'm finished. Greg
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Ourdee
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





Need pics.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, June 19, 2018 - 11:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is a picture:

f


Hope it helps.
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Ourdee
Posted on Monday, June 25, 2018 - 09:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

LOL
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I dropped into the local Harley dealer to pick up a bottle of Formula +, as I had all good intentions of pulling my primary cover and starter to check where this leak was coming from.

I assumed it was the starter, or the stator wire as those are the last two things I swapped. I got it in the driveway and gave it a good cleaning, so that I could see where the leak was coming from.

I let the bike set for a few days, and wouldn't you know it stopped dripping. Either that or it drained the fluids from the primary and there is nothing left to leak.

I guess I will check my fluid levels and assume it was from an over fill. I hate this crap.

Needless to say, this is not life or death leak. But it does make a guy go looking for his next replacement bike.

hmmm An FJR1300 with ABS might work.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, June 27, 2018 - 03:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Perhaps just a problem with the tranny breather tube. Packed in there tightly and very hard to see.
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Monday, July 09, 2018 - 03:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That was a theory as well.

I did get a check engine light, and checked the code. It was something to do with the fan. It went away.

Now this morning another CEL popped. It cleared before I had a chance to pull over.

GRRR.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, July 09, 2018 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It doesn't matter if the light goes out. The computer remembers the most recent error code.
My X1 threw me a code this morning on the way to work too. I just checked it by shorting those two pins and it said Intake Air Temp Sensor.

You know how to get the codes by shorting those two pins, right?
Any metal thing will work. I used a jack knife blade.

Here is link to a previous thread:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/716271.html
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2018 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No, I understand how to read codes. What I meant was it went away quickly.

It has not come back, but my oil leak comes back almost daily. Grr (again)

I see I can order the starter clutch bearing with the proper O-ring for $69 on Ebay. I may have to get that and pull my starter.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Tuesday, July 24, 2018 - 07:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 'starter leak' turned out to actually be the rear rocker box (as Nate suggested checking). Oil ran down and dripped from the lower exhaust stud. It was not easy to see. Yes, I did figure this out before doing an r&r on the starter.

Oil flings back onto the fan when riding. The extra crud sticking to the fan causes a fan code because the fan is not running right.
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Monday, July 30, 2018 - 10:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, Mark, mine was a fan code as well. This may be the case.

I will do some searching on the rocker box fix, but can you give me the cliff notes? Is this an engine rotation to fix? Full gasket set? Or some thing that can be done easily?

Thanks.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2018 - 09:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think you can get to the rear if you take the airbox floor off.
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Shoggin
Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 01:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Engine rotation: (
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2018 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I get the feeling my Uly will be dripping slightly till I take delivery of my new Pan America 1250!!
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Uly_dude
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2018 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello again. I did replace the starter on my 06 uly. Yes what a pain. But it can be done with basic tools and time. But ever since then I’ve been chasing oil leaks around the primary cover. Ugh is right.
The 13 grade 8 bolts are starting to strip in the Allen heads. So then I went to Harley to get all new bolts but you can’t get these anymore! And there no cross referencing them to other Harley bolts. You can’t get these. Then I went to the local hardware store and found the same bolts. Yea! Not.
I started to torque one down and it snapped! Then I start studying the shop manual; it says to torque these to 100-120 lbs, or 11-13 NM. Does this make sense? When I look at my torque wrench those two values do not match up. I’m starting to think 100 lbs is too much. Could this be a misprint in the manual? Lots of you’d have this manual, on page 6-5 does urs say that also??
This really getting to be painful. Now I have to undo everything and dig that bolt out. Anyone have any insight around the bolts? I did buy new gaskets and my torque wrench is hardly used. I don’t think it’s that far out of whack. Thanks in advance. Greg
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Steveford
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2018 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

100 - 120 INCH pounds which equals 10 ft lbs tops.
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Uly_dude
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2018 - 06:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeeze. I screwed that one up then. I really created a lot of work for myself.
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Uly_dude
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2018 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

But what about those grade 8 bolts/fasteners? I can’t find the ones with the built in washers. Anyone know a source?
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Griffmeister
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2018 - 09:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Are they the same for all years? I still see the silver color as available, P/N 4820A. Check with Lance at St Paul.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, August 22, 2018 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They're just 1/4-20 threaded machine screws.
Pretend you have a sportster. Perhaps you can get chrome plated magical screws.

I hope 9000 foot-pounds didn't crack the case!
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Thursday, August 30, 2018 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I sure hope my chinese starter didn't fill with so much oil it finally shorted out.

Yesterday, I go out to the bike lot at work, turn the key, flip the switch, gauges cycle, and EFI primes, hit the starter, absolutely nothing. No click, no noise, just nothing.

After a bit of research, it could be a clutch switch, or ground somewhere. But I have a neutral light.

I pull my clutch inspection cover, and note that the clutch is still pulling. But if I put it in first, it drags like it's in gear when I push with the clutch pulled. But rolls freely in Neutral. I have never tried that before, so maybe it's normal.

Long story short, I checked my battery posts and they are solid. It could be the start relay. So that is next.

If that starter us full of oil, and the source of my drips. I suppose it could have finally shorted out. Maybe I pull it apart and put in the proper starter clutch with O ring if it is not fried.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Friday, August 31, 2018 - 10:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oil doesn't conduct electricity.
If you didn't hear a click, I would suggest looking at the fusebox.
A blown headlight fuse will disable the starter.
If it is blown, try to figure out why it blew!

You push the little start button and that closes a little black relay in the fusebox which then pulls the monster solenoid in the starter and closes the ring contacts.

Since you didn't even hear a little click, I would pursue the signal getting to the relay.


Sometimes it's most easy to play the game "What did I touch last???"
I am usually the saboteur of my own failures but sometimes they take years to come back to bite me:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/833983.html?1533605528
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Biffdotorg
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2018 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After starting with the basics, I put the charger on the battery to be sure it was topped. The battery is in good condition.

I then listened closer, as after the gauges cycle and fuel pump runs, it does actually click once when I hit the starter. So does that tell me the relay is actually working?

I swapped the relays around, as others had done with no luck. So on next to the clutch switch. My guess is it is not the issue, as the click may not even happen if the clutch switch were not allowing it.

It may be time to pull the starter out and put it on the bench. I may need a link to another third party starter that actually uses the proper O-ring. I did have a link to replace just the clutch in my chinese starter. But I may feel more comfortable just replacing it. I did like the extra torque of this starter.

Thanks guys!
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Uly_dude
Posted on Tuesday, September 04, 2018 - 03:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When you say ur battery is good, did you have it tested? I had a problem like urs long time ago. The battery seemed fine, took a charge, but when they bench tested it, there were less than half the rated cranking amps. New battery took care of it.
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