G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through February 01, 2018 » Electrical problem when bars to the right « Previous Next »

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yan
Posted on Saturday, October 21, 2017 - 11:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When the handlebars are turned to the right I have no horn, no brake, no high beam, and no starter. I know it's usually a bad ground that causes these problems, but in my case I checked the horn and it is getting the ground alright, but it's the hot wire that goes to the horn that's not "hot" when the bars are to the right and the horn button is pushed. Looking at the electrical diagram I can see that a R/BK wire from connector #3 at the ignition switch, if damaged between the ignition switch and key switch relay, would cause no power to the brake/horn and the lights fuses, which would explain everything including no starter (connector 30 of the starter relay is being fed from the lights fuse, which is somewhat deceiving as the relay clicks but starter doesn't turn). Does any of this make sense, or am I digging in the wrong direction? Thanks!

(Message edited by Yan on October 22, 2017)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Most of the earlier Ulys had a crimped triple wire splice in the harness where it passes from the frame side over the steering neck to the fork side of the headlight housing. Late 07 they changed the clamp on the forward side but that splice would still break.

I made an extension for the power lead moving the triple splice up into the flyscreen area.

When you unwrap this splicer it can look fine but still be broken.

The right turn signal wire in that same area has a splice that also can fail. Moved it too.

On the steering neck the ground wire loop can crack from turning but look normal. You must remove the bolt to inspect it.

I added a couple of inches of coiled loop wire to reduce stress on the wire loop.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yan
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Etennuly

Question for you - did you put that plastic cover back (and stuffed the loom and the cables under it) or you left them freely hanging? I've seen a discussion (that I wish I had bookmarked as I can't locate it anymore) where people strongly suggested NOT to put that cover back up as it just makes things worse.

Thank you!
Yan
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Tootal
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 11:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I took that cover off before I had any problems and haven't had any problems. I just loosely wire tied it there.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ourdee
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 02:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your all going to void the warranties.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yan
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"Your all going to void the warranties."

oops!
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ourdee
Posted on Sunday, October 22, 2017 - 11:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, October 23, 2017 - 08:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the right blinker, odometer reset and gauge sweep with the key off. For the most part I'm pretty sure it's the 2 spices (brown and red wires)that get stressed. Pulling that wire retainer helped temporarily.
Yours sounds a little different but if you are in there, check these wires. I stole this pic from another Bueller.



The ground wire is the first place I would check before diving into this.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Yan
Posted on Monday, October 23, 2017 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks! I did the job last night - it was, as I suspected, the red wire with a black stripe, that was damaged (with the insulation intact). I decided not putting that plastic guide back - the cables are loosely zip-tied and the bundle of wires is free floating - time will tell how this setup will work : )
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Etennuly
Posted on Friday, October 27, 2017 - 09:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They made a revised plastic wire retainer I think it was in 08. By moving the splices up behind the fly screen i reduced the bundle diameter quite a bit. So using the new style clip was easy.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration