G oog le BadWeB | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile

Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through February 01, 2018 » How to replace the O2 sensor on my 09 X « Previous Next »

  Thread Last Poster Posts Pages Last Post
Archive through September 03, 2017D_adams30 09-03-17  04:02 pm
         

Author Message
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Sunday, September 03, 2017 - 04:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The one I have on my 1190 currently.

Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hugie03flhr
Posted on Friday, September 08, 2017 - 02:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Very nice set up D-Adams! Can splice the O2 wire so it can send a voltage signal to a gauge and the ECM or will that throw off the reading to the ECM?
Also, my crowfoot wrench plan failed so I'm very much considering unbolt ing the entire tail section like you did. I have the heat shields from the comfort kit and they look like they have a weather strip holding the shock cover but other than that, what do I need to disconnect before unbolting the tail section? I'm assuming the ECM plugs, battery wires and fuse box need some play to let it drop down but anything else ??? Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Friday, September 08, 2017 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

No. Both setups have a dedicated narrow band output, but the 1190 is not enabled or used. It's just running off the developed map, so the display shows me what's going on.

On the xb12, I did plug in the rear sensor wire, I have not done any tuning at this point, so the air/fuel is off a bit.

The wideband display for both comes direct from the controller to the display, each controller has dedicated wideband outputs as well as a single narrow band. I'd have to look at the WEGO unit to be sure, but I *think* it has 2 outputs for narrow band and 2 for wideband.

As far as the tail section goes, I strapped the front down to the floor (a bike lift will work as well if you have one) and then a jack under the bike to support it and allow the rear shock to be unbolted. I left most of the stuff intact, just disconnected the battery. Took out the bolts for the frame rails, upper and lower shock bolts, both foot peg mounts and the fan.

Pretty simple really.

Hard part was feeding the wiring through to where I wanted it and sorting out where to store the excess. Most of it is behind the windscreen, the Uly has plenty of space.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Ourdee
Posted on Friday, September 08, 2017 - 10:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Carry a ziploc and zip tie in a pocket for rain.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Wademan
Posted on Monday, September 11, 2017 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Go with the NTK. Just replaced a not that old Bosch aftermarket one on my Uly this summer. Bad bosch, bad.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, September 11, 2017 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks D-Adams!!! Since my crowfoot idea has failed, I will go about doing the O2 this way.
Wademan, you just ruined my day. The Bosch sensors suck??? How many miles did you get out of it?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

Jhallgren
Posted on Wednesday, September 13, 2017 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

D_adams, so is the wideband only for the AFR gauge? Did you hook one of the wires to the old connector for the original narrow band? How does the ECM read the O2 otherwise? Just curious as the wideband connector is larger. Since you ran wires to pins 1 & 33 is one of those pins the original narrow band feed to the ECM?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message

D_adams
Posted on Thursday, September 14, 2017 - 11:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The wideband is for logging purposes to generate a new calibration. Yes, there's one narrow band output wire (brown I think) that plugged directly back into the wire harness where the stock o2 sensor was. The other pair of wideband outputs are wired direct to the ecm, pins 1 & 33 respectively (front/rear) for recording. The ecm (DDFI-3 and the EBR ecm's anyway, as far as I know) can read it, just not utilize the information to make on the fly changes.

So, either a laptop or a logging device is required right now, I've been told there's some software changes coming that may enable the use of widebands and an auto-tuner, that would allow on the fly reprogramming or updating based on the desired air/fuel ratio, ie; 13:1 instead of 14.7:1 or stochiometric +/- readings. Best of both worlds for someone like me. The ability to run any exhaust, plug in a desired air/fuel ratio, run it and have it work. Want more power? Set it to 13:1 or whatever it is you think it needs. Want fuel economy? Set it to 16:1 and run it.

I ran through the log files from the last couple of days on mine last night, it's much closer than I'd expected after a single calibration update for the exhaust I currently have on it. Bike runs very well, lots of power, smooth everywhere and the air/fuel ratios are pretty much what I'm after. I was a bit concerned with the disparity between the front and rear displays, turns out they're not actually off much from each other. The displays are just a little slower than what is being recorded and don't react fast enough. Guess the refresh rate on the display is too slow. Hopefully I'll get a new/updated calibration tonight to plug into it and test some more, but if the last one is any indication of how it will run, this will most likely be the final cal for it. I'll be pulling the stock header off of it and putting one of mine on it when it's finished, then do this all over again.
« Previous Next »

Add Your Message Here
Post:
Bold text Italics Underline Create a hyperlink Insert a clipart image

Username: Posting Information:
This is a private posting area. Only registered users and custodians may post messages here.
Password:
Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.)
Enable HTML code in message
Automatically activate URLs in message
Action:

Topics | Last Day | Tree View | Search | User List | Help/Instructions | Rules | Program Credits Administration