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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » Archive through October 10, 2016 » Rough running, surging, possibly bad fuel pump? « Previous Next »

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Archive through September 19, 2016Tootal30 09-19-16  02:44 pm
         

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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, September 19, 2016 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

At this point the thread is getting pretty hard to follow.

Maybe a quick summary would help. Just 5 or so bullets that describe precisely and narrowly the specific symptoms without interpretation or history of what you did.

Leave the interpretation for later, don't taint the jury up front. Just the facts, sir. : )
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 07:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Tootal and ReepieCheep for responding. Tootal, I don't have ECMSpy. I will look into getting that. I believe I need tuner pro for 2009. Let me know if I am wrong on that.

Here's a quick Summary as suggested :
1. First start, coughing out of intake intermittently with high warm up idle. Stops after idle subsides to 1100 RPM.
2. Surging at cruising speeds (20-50 MPH) worse at lower RPMs.
3. 1/4 throttle acceleration from 1st to 2nd, slight hesitation until 4300 RPM then smooth acceleration. Feels like a dead spot.
4. New : hard starting when hot. Has to turn over 3 or more times to start.
5. New : Idle drops below 1000 RPM when slowly moving forward in traffic then pulling the clutch back in. Takes 3 or 4 seconds to return to normal idle.
6. No DTC's present.

Hope this helps. Thanks

(Message edited by jhallgren on September 20, 2016)
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Mtz117
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replicate conditions when issue occurs. Park bike, pull off seat and give the ECM a tap with the handle of a screw driver. Don't beat the thing into submission or anything but give it a nice tap. If it stutters or dies, it's likely the ECM
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2016 - 10:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the suggestion Andrew but the ECM was replaced a month ago with an IDS ECM because of these symptoms as the stock ECM was cracked at the connector. Still same symptoms. I relocated the ECM during the replacement. I will give the connectors a good wiggle test and try tapping it tomorrow before I head to work.
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Arry
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 - 02:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like you, I don't have ECM Spy or Tuner Pro. I had my ECM replaced last year, because of various symptoms. I had to have a HD shop "flash" the new ECM and do a TPS reset. When I got my bike back from the shop, it was idling way high (after it warmed up), and didn't run right. The shop did a (second) TPS reset, and it's been running great since then.
I think the guy that did the first TPS reset didn't get it right. They had a different tech work on it the second time. You need someone who is familiar with Buells, to do it properly.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 02:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the response Arry, but I have an 09. the TPS reset is easy on these and no tools are required like pre 08's. I have already done several TPS resets.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 08:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, for anyone following this thread, I think I have narrowed it down. It was running pretty bad today with a lot of surging. When I got home, I removed both air scoops and decided to test for intake leaks again while at operating temp this time. Last time I checked for leaks, the engine was cold. I first tried propane, but didn't notice any changes. I brought out some carb clean and sprayed the intake flanges and the Uly started dropping idle and wanted to die. More so on the rear head then the front but could get the idle to drop a little on the front head as well. I continued to spray and the Uly died. I started it back up and decided to lock the throttle at about 2100 RPM and tested again. The engine would pickup RPM for a sec and then started trying to die.

Looks like the intake seals need to be replaced. Going to be ordering some from Lance at St. Paul tonight. I might not be able to get to this job for a while or at all for the rest of the riding season as I don't get much free time with my wife working weekends and I have little ones to contend with then. It's gonna start getting cold and crappy here in the next month or so. I normally only get to get out and ride to work which sucks, but better then not riding at all. If I do get it done before my season is finished, I will post a report after I ride it for a few days to let the ECM relearn. Odd thing though, is my MPG is about the same. Had not dropped or increased which I thought I would see as I keep a record of this via Fuelly.

One other think I noticed, is that both intake flanges have hex bolts on both sides. What I have read on this forum , is that some have allen heads on one side and bolts on the other. Do the 09 and up normally have hex bolts instead of allen head bolts? I bough the Uly back in early 2010 with a 1100 miles on the clock. Not sure if anything was done to it before i bought it.
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Dan_m
Posted on Friday, September 23, 2016 - 02:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My bike is a 2009 Ulysses, and the bolts at the intake flanges are also hex bolts on both sides.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, September 24, 2016 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replace the hex bolts with 12 point heads. A 12 point 1/4" box end wrench fits in there real easy! This is what the old 90's Harleys used and works great.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 - 07:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was able to find some time this past weekend to replace the intake seals. Was easier than I thought it would be. Total time was about 2.5 hours. Surprisingly the old seals looked pretty good. I have been stockpiling parts for awhile now and decided since I had the throttle body out, I was going to replace the TPS and injectors. I rode to work for the last two days to give the ECM time to relearn. Sadly though, still having the same issue with surging on lite throttle cruising speeds. Throttle response is better though. I am going to try a Buelltooth with ECMdriod to try and do a capture while riding to see if I see anything odd. Waiting for it to arrive. Not sure what else to do at this point as I have no DTC's present. Hoping a data capture while riding may shed some lite. The only sensors that have not been changed at this point are the O2 sensor, engine temp sensor and the crank position sensor. I have spares of everything. Not sure replacing them is gonna make much of a difference unless anyone has had experience with one causing odd issues like I am having. Anyone here use ECMdroid with a bluetooth modem hooked to the data connector?
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Firemanjim
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2016 - 05:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not sure what an 09 map looks like but all the ones up to 08 I have seen had a nice lean area at 3-4000 rpm as I believe that is the sound test area. Looking at an 07/08 it would have much bigger numbers below that area and again above it.
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Tootal
Posted on Thursday, September 29, 2016 - 06:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should always test the seals after installation. It took me 6 tries before I got mine to seal. Mine is a rare case but still something you might try to be sure. You can't do any tuning till you're leak free.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Friday, September 30, 2016 - 12:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I checked the seals after I installed them. No longer leaking then. Tootal did you have to do this 6 times in a row? I will check them again just to be sure.
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Tootal
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 03:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes, it took most of the Summer. I ended up using the James seal with the washer cast in them. They are black, not the blue silicone. I don't know why it was so hard to seal but the last seals finally worked. I want to swap out my throttle shaft but don't want to upset a sealed throttle body! I may do a top end this Winter and I'll do it then.
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Jhallgren
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2016 - 04:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok thanks for that info. I am going to recheck the seal again at operating temp. When I first replaced them and fired it up, I had no leaks.
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