| Author | Message | ||
     Toolinround |
Does anyone out there have long term experience with the Free Spirit belt tensioner? If so, have you had any wheel bearing or belt failure? | ||
| Sugarmcguinnmsncom |
Been using one for 2 seasons. I don't know that I'd call it "long-term" but maybe helpful... No issues thus far (knock on wood). Things of note: I get better gas mileage across the board. and the Uly is much easier to roll around my garage. | ||
| Afsoc_commando |
I have 25000 miles on mine in the last few years and no issues at this time. And yes much easier to maneuver around the garage | ||
| Toolinround |
So had you gone through bearings or belts prior to the tensioner? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Lots of discussion, I'm in the "no" camp, but not that strongly, and I have no beef with people in the "yes" camp. I'll just list some of my reasons for no, not judging the yes people, there is an issue that the device does address (I just choose to address it differently). Some of the gotchas... Install isn't awful, but it isn't trivial either. It comes with a bunch of shims and some alignment instructions that have to be followed. Not a huge deal, but not just plug and play. The springs wear and need to be replaced at regular intervals. So it becomes another maintenance item. It isn't cheap, but not insane for what it is. I just took the stock unit, and drilled the holes out a few sizes larger, and bolted it back up. That lets the stock tensioner rotate just a little, and takes a lot of tension off the belt. In theory, high (but perfect) tension is best for belt life. But I (and others) suspect that tolerance stack up and other issues cause the stock setup to be "not quite perfect" and load that system too high on some bikes in some circumstances. So doing this gives up a little theoretical margin on the belt (which has never been a problem for me even once in 100k of Buelling), and gains a little margin on the wheel bearings (which are more often problems). So it's like watching your good kid a little less so you can watch your bad kid a little more.  The free spirits unit does it and looks cool. The "drill out the stock" approach looks like stock and seems to work well. Leaving it be works fine for an awful lot of bikes for an awful lot of miles. | ||
| Toolinround |
Thanks! I have read several of the previous threads and opened up the tensioner holes as suggested. Prior to doing this I lost a rear wheel bearing in Nowhere B.C. While fully loaded and 2 up on our return from Hyder Ak.. As providence would have it, we lost the bearing a few miles after some very spirited corners and ended up stopped less than 1/4 mile from a fellows place who installed new bearings in less than 2 hours. The belt and the bearing that failed were original with 23k on them. Shortly after our return the belt broke while out on a spirited single track trail ride. Then, did research and opened up mount holes when installing new belt. Thinking about prepping bike to ride 2 up and tour the country in segments. Need to have it very reliable. | ||
| Glenn |
Hi, curious about the larger hole option. If you make the hole larger and then torque the connection, how does this allow a little bit of give? Is there a good thread that explains this? Thanks, PS Lost rear wheel bearings 215 miles from home a couple of years ago and even with AAA 100 mi coverage. it was one expensive day! | ||
| Ftd |
Put a FST on my 06 Uly ~4 years ago...7000 miles. Upgraded to new belt and 2010 wheel a year earlier. No belt/bearing issues before or after. I like the way it looks. I like as previously mentioned how easy it rolls around the garage now. Have not touched it other than to spray it with WD-40 occasionally. YMMV | ||
| Woodnbow |
Glenn, when you reinstall the tensioner after wallowing out the bolt holes it will provide less tension from the start. When you then torque the fasteners it just stays in the more relaxed position. | ||
| Dualsportdad |
I'm also interested to hear how many miles (I could care less how long it's been on there) people have on their fst. | ||
| Toolinround |
The larger holes allow you to install the tensioner with less pressure on the belt. Where you torque it has a slight amount of adjustment. I'm pretty sure that the amount of force against the tensioner will overcome your placement and put it where it wants to be. | ||
| Sagehawk |
I had posted method of madness earlier but could not find it. Here goes. Bolt size for tensioner is 10 mm. .3937". Drill both holes to 13/32". .4062" . Then i moved up on left hole .030" with mill table and plunged thru with endmill thus elongating hole. Now i have clearance and a way to pivot idler if i think i need more tension. So far, install idler and let hang, roll down to left and tighten nuts. Bike rolls fine and belt doesnt seem to have issues. A few miles down and ill see how it works out. Alls good. Just wallowing out the holes is not a good idea. Always put thought into what you do | ||
| Glenn |
Thanks guys, Not having the part in front of me, the direction of slot you made is not real clear. I'll take a look at it tonight Alas no milling machine but I could probably do it with a file. (Message edited by glenn on April 13, 2015) | ||
| Reepicheep |
I just used a step drill with the long steps, and went up a step or two. The belt is on when I reinstall the tensioner, so it settles to the shifted position already. There is still tension on it, just not as much. I go until it will just wiggle on without loosening the axle. On my 9sx it just made it easier to get the tensioner off to repaint the exhaust. On the Uly I think it may actually be saving bearings. | ||
| Glenn |
Okay doing some searching I found That the clearance for some have been done for both holes and others for one only. I think slotting or over sizing the top hole in the clockwise direction, would be best since the swing radius is longer with a fixed front hole. None of the previous posts had a pic so have at it.  | ||
| Sagehawk |
That would be it Glenn. | ||
| Glenn |
Thanks Saghawk! Going to give it a try. I have felt the binding especially two up. | ||
| Sagehawk |
Also, be sure to chamfer the holes as a sharp edge will bind into the bolt. Just makes for easier assembly. Even at work, got a coupla guys that just dont get it.. mark of a craftsman with things chamfered and deburred. Saves hands, fingers, and toes sometimes. Enjoy Glenn! | ||
| Glenn |
Yeah I hear you. For years I would finish hole edges with a round or edge of a flat file then I bought the proper de-burring tool and what a difference! | ||
| Uly_man |
I would say NO, in my (lots of) experience, but YES for other reasons. Here is why? I had a 06 bike that broke three belts with a FST fitted. One AKD (that came original on the bike), two AKE belts and the last one which was the new AKF belt and was still on the bike when it was stolen. Each one lasted about 7000 miles and broke EXACTLY the same way about 1000 miles after changing the tire even after being SUPER CAREFUL about doing it. My 10 bike had a AKE belt from the factory that broke the same way and has a AKF on it now. The AKE belts would slacken a little after about 3000 miles but the AKF, on the 10 bike, is still the same IE Like new after 4000 miles. I do not know how significant that is at present. Most of my riding is in town with LOTS of gear changes, road humps, braking, etc which loads and un-loads the rear end a lot. Not something I suspect you would get with mostly highway riding. For whatever reason (arc of travel blah, blah) this bike DOES "load-up" the belt on rear end compression and it is not easy to see on a none FST bike. With the FST you can see it move under suspension movement which, to me anyway, confirms this situation. I found that with a FST it was easier to move the bike about, makes for MUCH better gear changes, easier road side belt changes and MUCH better riding over rough roads, speed humps, etc. I suspect that this is, in part, due to the FST allowing the rear suspension to work as it should. It is my belief, but just mine, that a "loading" belt IE Tightening is acting against the rear shock making it harder for the proper control of its parts IE Compression and rebound. It is possible that a FST will help bearing wear but that is a hard one to confirm. Idle wheel and wheel bearings are cheap and no big deal. The gearbox/ front pulley one is, however, the big expensive one if it fails. I would still fit a FST or do the mod as stated here. A couple of other things? Never allow WD-40 to get into bearings. It is designed as a penetrating fluid and WILL flush out water but also oils and grease AS WELL. Re oil and grease as required. While some may think otherwise I would suspect any bike wheel bearings at 20k miles. It is easy and cheap to do and a false economy to leave on this bike. Also, as said and know myself, the rear preload has a BIG effect on how this bike handles and must be set correctly. If you run with big loads, two up, etc you MUST adjust the rear preload to allow for this extra weight. |
