Author |
Message |
Skntpig
| Posted on Saturday, October 13, 2007 - 11:30 am: |
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I know this should go in the KV but nobody has read my post (in poor running)since yesterday and I need help getting running before bikenight tonight. 97S1 stock ignition. New Batt, New plugs + wires, tried a known working Module and no luck. I did test the triangle connector as in the service manual and only got 5.5V coming out of the module. I also just put bike back together and Jet Hott coated frame, tried to scrape where grounds go but is this silver coating the issue? Bike ran yesterday but was intermitant. Now it just turns over and nothing, or clicks repetitively near starter like it has low batt. How do you set stock nose cone ignition once you don't know where stock advance was? Sorry so long and in wrong spot. Are there easy tests for regulator? Relay, circuit breaker? I have v/ohm meter. I don't want to just replace parts. Thanks in advance, I know this is the most comprehensive group of experts for Buells. |
Rick_a
| Posted on Saturday, October 13, 2007 - 01:42 pm: |
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quote:How do you set stock nose cone ignition once you don't know where stock advance was?
Usually the screws leave a mark. It's not exact, but enough to get things going. A multimeter can also be used with the sensor to static time using the flywheel marks. I'd be leaning towards bad grounds. Check the main ground for resistance. |
Cityxslicker
| Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2007 - 04:06 am: |
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Ya got me, I thought it was about promoting a bike nite to get some interest and participants... was hoping for another local hooters parking lot shoot out ;) damn the kv ! |
Tramp
| Posted on Sunday, October 14, 2007 - 05:52 am: |
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being as your batt, wires and plugz are "new", go back to the original components and try that known-good config. When you say you "...tried to scrape where grounds go..." , I see a flapping red flag. Did you succeed in scraping these surfaces, or not? Did you scrape all stock config bare-metal interfaces? I used to see this dynamic all the time, post-powder. As it stands, you have too many factors altered in order to make a well-informed diagnosis, try your original wires and batt (and I would start, as always, with the batt....simple voltage doesn't tell the whole story, there) go back, use a dremel if necessary, and get bare-metal on all original bare metal interfaces. Don't even touch your ign. timing settings if they worked prior to this, and you hadn't since changed them. ( and, next time- mask off all grounds before sending the frame to the coaters ) |
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