| Author | Message | ||
     Rocketman |
Blakey : Funny really, I'm just swigging some cactus juice as I type  So Texas weed's no good then ? Rocket in England | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Buellers Modified my snorkel to accept the same K&N air cleaner as in the FORCE kit. It fits in the stock AIR BOX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Thunderbolt |
I got into this whole flywheel/dyno thing kinda late. Damn! Missed out on some good fun. Aaron, Blake's explanation of why 5th gear dyno runs show more HP is right-on. The faster that drum is spinning, the smaller the effect of the engine's rotational mass. I think Blake already explained it pretty well, but the key is that the same amount of energy gets dumped into the engine's rotational mass regardless of what gear you're in--it's accelerating to the same roational speed, while more energy gets dumped into the drum in 5th than in 1st-. This lessens the effect of the engine's flywheel. You should be able to prove it to yourself, too. Put your S2 on the dyno, do some runs in 1st and then some in 5th. Do the same with the S1 (and its lighter flywheel). Betcha the S2 'gains' a higher percentage of hp than the S1. Certainly, any improvements in tranny effeciency would play a role as well, but both bikes are the same there, so...try it. | ||
| Leveg |
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| Leveg |
This is the piston Millennium supply for use with their 3 13/16" cylinders. Does anyone have experience using these? They look like a high R.P.M. Drag piston , but Millennium say they will last thousands of miles on the street.   What gaskets are you guys using on your Big Bores. Are solid copper head and base gaskets the way to go? | ||
| Blake |
Hmmmm, "thousands of miles on the street"? I'd rather hear something like "tens of thousands of miles on the street". Pin placement seems like it could move closer to the piston face; would require longer rods, but would improve piston stability, right? | ||
| Leveg |
Yep, this is a standard rod deal so the pin is standard placement. A longer rod would help, but the standard rod ratio is fairly good at 1.816. These pistons have less than 1" of skirt - I certainly wouldn't want to use them with a shorter rod and/or stroker. Greg | ||
| Jmartz |
Leveg: Durability aside, they must be light and I like the smaller contact area against the cylinder, might yield you a bit more power. The short pins will also help the final weight. They are dished, what are you shooting for in final compression? Jose | ||
| Leveg |
Jose They are light, and the small skirt area will help reduce frictional losses, especially on a Nikasil bore. I'm just a bit worried about ring seal and life. They are rated as a -2.0 cc dome or 10.5:1. I am hoping to get away with 11:1 with tight squish and twin plugs on 98 octane fuel. | ||
| Jmartz |
Leveq: If you set it up like that you won't be riding far from home. I would not worry too much about ring issues. On stroker V8's sometimes they put the pin within the rin area leaving less support for the rings, but that is not your case. The problems I've heard people mention about small skirts is that the pistons rock and do not cool as effectively. You will have to rely on oil being slung by the flywheels to cool them from below. | ||
| Blake |
Octane booster. | ||
| Leveg |
Jose The reason I am worried about the rings is because of the piston rocking and not allowing the rings to set up square to the bore - I have built many V8's with the pin into the rings, they only go into the oil rings, and always have a rail or button for support. You think 11:1 compression is too high? Standard Thunderstorm engines have virtually no effective squish, because they have too much clearance. I am hoping that the tight squish and twin plugs will make it work. I guess it all depends how much difference the plug deal makes, considering Nallin recommends 10.5:1 with his set-up (single plug). Your comment about cooling is valid - less skirt means less are to transfer heat. Greg | ||
| Jmartz |
I would not go dual plugs and, if starting from scratch, use a flattop piston and a suitably enlarged chamber for 10.5 to 11 to 1 compression with a squish ring. Remember that this is no cast iron block with water cooling. A superhot HD style motor will blow if operated continuosly at max output. These things when souped up are for bursts on the street. The flattop piston has the least surface area to collect heat and the best flame dispersion geometry. There is advanage to twin plug but I don't want to carry the extra parts and weight. While I have no first hand experience with short skirts in an HD motor I know they perform quite well in many other applications and would not be worried about it. I like you coice of jugs I will never use sleeved or solid cast pieces again. There are some disatvantages but overall I'm willing to live with them for their lighter weight and better heat dissipation. I would also carve multiple grooves on the wet parts of the head particularly around the exhaust valve to increase surface area in hopes that the oil can remove some heat also. Jose | ||
| Schemky |
Nitrous?? Got in a race with a new corvette Saturday night (9-22-01). Race started at about 55 mph just at an interstate "on-zit". Could not catch the guy, he finally got out of it at around 100 and I passed him, but only because he let me. I was upset and disappointed in my trusty M2. I can get a nitrous kit for about $550.00. I figure an extra 25 to 35 HP would maintain my ego. I realize the clutch would need to be beefed up, retard the timing 1 - 2 degrees and install colder plugs (used to bracket race with a buddy that used NOS on a car). Has anyone out there used NOS on their Buell? | ||
| Jmartz |
Schemky: The thing to do is to have the race where the M2's lighter weight and torque will give you an advantage. From a stand still to 200 feet, after that the race needs to be over. A poor top end is unfortunately the price of our stellar low end performance. I love pissing off Ducati 748 owners off traffic lights. They try really hard and end up doing wheelies but their efforts to catch me are always futile. I do make sure the race ends soon to avoid embarassment. | ||
| Blake |
Started at 55 mph in what gear? If you were in 3rd you should have been able to stay with a stock vette. | ||
| Schemky |
Blake, This particular vette' had four exhuast pipes grouped together at the rear, not sure if this is a stock configuration. Everything happened so fast, I think had just shifted into third at around 60 as we hit the interstate. Jmartz is right about the short run scenario, but I thought I could pass the vette pretty quickly and then ease off the gas. There are also some pretty hot mustangs and a few camaros that have impressive 1/4 mile legs too. This is also the first time since I have owned the M2 that I pinned the throttle in 5th till she couldn't do any more; speedo indicated 135 mph. | ||
| Swede |
Schemky, you will be fine with your standard clutch. No retard of the timing is needed (except if you use serious amounts of gas). Be sure to reed the Do's and Dont's of the manual, expensive things can happen otherwise. I have my system set up for an extra 30 hp. Works like a dream! Strongly recommend it! | ||
| Schemky |
Swede, What system did you purchase, from whom, and for how much? Found a complete system for $510.00 (plus S&H), supposed to have everything, micro-switch, relay, fuel pump, etc. Has a 2.5 lb. supply bottle. Also, how long have you had yours and how often do you "spray" it? Following your recommendation, I will order. | ||
| Johnsachs |
Leveg, Those pistons are made by Wiseco for Chris.You will not have problems with them rocking or anything else.Just don't use chrome rings.11.00:1 compression should be fine if you are using cams with later than 50 deegres of intake closing.Dual plugs ,and an adjustable ign. module will probably let you use S.E. cams. We just finished a Millenium cyl. 84 cu.in.X-1 with 10.90:1 and S.E.2 cams;made 112 r.w.h.p.and 103 lbs.ft. | ||
| Swede |
Schemky, my stuff comes from NOS, I think they are a part of Holley now. Didn't buy a kit, just put a few gadgets toghether. They got kits though, serious stuff, good instructions. I say, •••• the micro switch it doesn't add anything to the system, you just have to use your brain more if you don't mount it. I have only had the bike since august and the system has been used less than 10 times as I have a 0,5lb bottle (20 secs). I think it is hard to find a bottle that combines good looks with high volume. Check the pic in my profile. | ||
| S2carl |
Schemky, Contact Craig at Hell Fire Performance. He's a bueller and has a killer setup on his M2. He fabs up kits with various levels of insanity, errrr...., power. Hell Fire Performance PO Box 324 26 Quaker St. Newton Jct., NH 03859-0324 603-382-3863 HTH Carl | ||
| Schemky |
Swede & S2carl, Thanks for the information, I'm calling and working on it now. As things progress, I'll keep you posted. I guess the most fun about Buell's is the near limitless amount of modifications you can inflict on these poor beasts of burden. | ||
| Rdrage |
Is there any nos kits available for FI bikes? | ||
| Schemky |
Swede, I am curious how you determined the proper jet size for fuel and NOS. In my years of bracket racing, I never saw a V-8 set-up without a throttle mounted (micro) switch. The systems I have examined had a N/O switch series wired into the circuit that interfaced with the throttle switch. This ensured that the driver had control of the activation circuit and the throttle switch ensured NOS activation only at WFO. Otherwise, you risk potential engine "trauma". Did you dyno to verify the 30 hp gain? | ||
| Swede |
Schemky, there is a given ratio between the N2O and fuel jets. N2O / Fuel / HP X Nozzles (2) 16 / 20 / 9 18 / 22 / 12 20 / 24 / 15 22 / 26 / 17 Fuel jet 4 sizes over N2O. You do not damage the engine by using nitrous on not WOT. However, you don't wanna inject it when decreasing throttle. Also, never injet N20 into engine if it is not running. Throttle activated switch makes this almost fool proof. But I think it gives you better control to manually activate. I use the horn button (via a toggeling relay pulled by the arming switch). I have not dyno'ed. | ||
| Schemky |
Swede, Thanks for the info, I ass-u-me that the jet sizes are drill bit numbers. If so, I could relatively easily by a used NOS set up and make my own jets. I wonder if I could use some Holley carb jets for this, since I have good assortment? | ||
| Leveg |
Johnsachs Just got back from overseas and saw your post about the pistons. My cams are RedShift 567V2's, intake closing is 48 degrees - same as S.E. Thanks for the advice. Greg | ||
| Swede |
Schemky, jets are not very expensive. I would not drill em myself, unless you got some serious precision equipment. You dont wanna get a too lean mixture... I dont think Holley carb jets will fit. | ||
| Craigster |
Schemky A good way to determine initial nitrous jetting is by using the following formula. It is written to function in MS Excel. ROUND(POWER(A8*A8/(5.8/3.4*9.649/POWER(A10/A15,0.5)*0.9),0.5),0) A8 is the Nitrous Jet size (in thousandths of an inch) A10 is the Nitrous Pressure in PSI (I like to default high....use 1200 to start) A15 is the Fuel Pressure The result is the fuel jet size required to yeild an 11.8 O2 sense reading. It's based on the amopunt of pounds of nitrous required to burn 1 lb. of fuel. |
