| Author | Message | ||
     Chauly |
It sounds like this was addressed in the 2001 Showa, since it's eye-to-eye length is 15.5 inches versus 17 inches. Maybe I need the 2001 shock? | ||
| Al_Lighton |
When you move the rear of the can backwards (showing LESS threads), you are compressing the spring from the front. Yes, you have it backwards. The shock length shorter is just because it's a different shock. And yes, you DO need it  Al | ||
| Peggy |
I bought a 2001 M2L in March and I now have the nickname "tippy", because I am too short for the bike and I constantly tip over at stop lights etc... I'm 5'1" and my parts guy won't sell me anymore clutch handles. Does anyone know if this bike can be lowered any more safely? Please help! I absolutely love this bike!!! | ||
| Jakeanvil |
Peggy, I don't know about the M2 but on my X1 I bought a Corbin seat, it defenitly lowered the bike an inch or 2. Jake | ||
| Tripper |
A Corbin will help IF you call them and tell them your situation. Corbin tends to make the seats with a wide bucket which splays the legs out and robs inseam length. They will custom build anything for the same high price they charge normally. | ||
| Peggy |
I took the seat off the bike entirely and I still can use another inch or 2. I plan to have a different seat made for me, but I still need to go lower. Any other suggestions? Peggy | ||
| Dave |
Check with Tat at ASB or perhaps Sport Twin? Try Doc Martin shoes/boots with the inch sole? DAve | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Peggy You can lower the front end by letting the fork tubes slide up in the Triple Clamps Part#'s 45630-97Y & 45632-97Y(make sure when the front forks bottom out the front wheel/fender does not hit anything). Call Tad at AMERICAN SPORT BIKE and ask if he has the BRACKET to lower the rear of your BUELL(the number is 760-946-3379). In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Peggy If you have small hands(ie:short fingers) you could put on KAWASAKI levers: CLUTCH Part# 46076-1165 BRAKE Part# 13236-1185 In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Buellistic |
ATT: Peggy Call AMERICAN SPORT BIKE (760)946-3379 ask Tat Marcy about P.N. 5408 which will lower the rear of your BUELL one inch. Drop the front end one inch and your BUELL is in balance and an inch lower. In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley | ||
| Raymaines |
I’ve got the forks off of my Y2K M2 and I’ve replaced the fork springs with a slightly stiffer set from Race Tech and now it’s time to refill the forks with new fluid. The Service Manual says the capacity is “4.25 in. (108mm) from top with fork fully compressed.” What does that mean? I’m thinking it means the fork leg is vertical, the cartridge is installed (otherwise the screw in the bottom wouldn’t have been installed yet and the fluid would just drain out the bottom as fast as I poured it in the top), and the chrome slider tube is “compressed” or in the lowered position. If that assumption is correct (or even if it isn’t), do I pour in and measure the new fluid before or after I install the springs? Thanks, Ray | ||
| Chrisg |
I'd appreciate any advice on swingarm removal and re-installation. My 2000 M2 is almost due for the 20,000 mile service, and I'd lilke to do the work myself. I'm pretty confident about everything except removing the swingarm to lube the bearings (I figure I'll put the isolator upgrade kit in while I'm at it since it won't add much work). I've read the isolator replacement articles on ATC as well as Buellistic's post on this site but I still have a few questions/concerns. Most important is how to support the bike while I pull the swingarm. I've got front and rear Pit Bull's, but the rear supports the swingarm, not the frame. I could probably do a ratchet strap from the rafters to the rear subframe, but I'd still need to support the rear of the engine somehow. The ATC article mentions using the Westtek center-stand, but I can't find any information on it other than a short blurb on the ASB website with a fuzzy picture. Does this support the engine, or the frame like the DSE center-stand? Is it Buell specific, or universal? Worth the $? Some more questions: will the compression tools described in the ATC article work with the 2001 isolators (I've heard they're considerably thicker than the older ones)? Are there any special tools I would need, or any point in the process where I'd need more than one set of hands(I've got a good set of hand tools, but not much in the way of power tools or metal fabrication capability)? What size torx bit do the new isolator bolts take (they look friggin huge)? I apaologize for the long post and all the questions, but the Buell is my sole means of transportation, and I don't want to tear her apart only to find I can't get her back together again. I'm also living off of GI Bill/ROTC scholarship till graduation/commisioning in May, so I don't have much money to throw at the problem. Thanks in advance for any help! | ||
| Jmartz |
X's: U need no special tools to remove the SA. I have done it three times for friends who wanted '99's put in. Do not remove it to check the bearings for grease. One of the bikes had 15000 miles and the bearings looked fine. My bike has over 40000 and I'm not interested in looking at them. If you wish to proceed ping me off line for more details. Jose | ||
| Road_Thing |
This is probably an old question, but I need to ask it again: Are all Buell rear shocks interchangeable, or are there different shocks for different models? Thanks r_t | ||
| Javarilla |
Hey - anyone here weigh in around 275lbs? If so, what are you riding, and what have you done to it? Why do I ask? I'm one of those way-broad fellows that doesn't look like I weigh more than next guy, until I sit on the Ducati 900 and the sales guy watches the suspension sink, and sink, and he politely suggests I consider a custom suspension... Because I hear of occasional problems with the buell rear suspension, and because most of y'all pictures make you all look like super models - I figure I better ask. Cheers. A copy has been placed under Ergs, and Newbies... | ||
| Al_Lighton |
I just replaced my valves with gold valves, replaced the springs, black anodized the forks, polished the fork ends. Also polishd the triple clamps. Some photos: In work  Triple clamps polished-they shine up real good.  Fork tubes polish to a grea shine, but would be a bear to maintain this way so I black anodized them  Fork view-front- black goes real good with the fender.  before  after  | ||
| Seeeu911 |
Al, lots of fun hard work, but the results are really worth it. Freaking awesome dude ! (in my best hairyralph voice) Ok. several questions. 1. what was the cost on the gold vales and springs ? what performance mods were you seeking ? 2. the fork tubes are coated. what did you use to remove the original coating and details on the polishing please materials tools etc. 3. the fork ends were polished ? a close up pic please. 4. who did and how much was the black anodizing ? Al, a very very nice job. | ||
| Ccryder |
You SoCal guys are sooo lucky. Being able to waste the end of good riding weather (here in the Midwest) polishing away so you can ride thru the next cooler months in CA. Just color me envious. Great job, gives me some winter (Yes WE do have a REAL winter) ideas for Stripe'r. Look out TIR 02'. Ride More, LEan More, Grin More. Neil | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Donn, 1)gold valves were $139 I think. Maybe $169. Can't remember. A lot for little tiny machined things and shims. I used the Buell Race .85 kg springs because they were cheap, my weight really puts me at .9 to .95, they were pretty cheap, $43, substantially cheaper than what Race tech wanted. I think I will reserve judgement until I can go blast the twisties. Feels good on the highway, not a great test. Definitely less dive now. 2) In the picture of the triple clamps, the tool is there on the cloth. Scotchbrite pads on an air sander. That got rid of the hard anodize and the machining rings, then the buffing wheel from there. Each fork tube took about 2.5 hours start to finish. 3)look in the wheels/brakes section ,that's the best photo I've got now 4) So Cal plating here in SD. I was gonna have the insides done as well, but the guy said they already were hard anodized and they looked very clean inside, so we did just the outside. $70. Neil, I'm soo lucky that I have two Buells. While the S1 was down, I was riding the S3. Also, I bought some used S1 forks and a used S1 caliper and did all that polishing work while the S1 was still up and running over the past few months. that picutre over Lajolla was last Sunday, 75 degrees! Just another day in paradise with 3 million of myclose friends that also live here. Thanks for good words, Al | ||
| Ralph |
How the hell do you ride your bike when it's sideways like that? No way I'm doing that stuff, it'll make me fall off my bike! Obviously good for wheelies though bighairyralph Admin fix pic so Al can ride safely. | ||
| Ara |
Well, I just completed changing out the fork oil and regreasing the steering head bearings. Replaced fork oil to specified level (110 mm below top of fork tube at full compression) with Bel-Ray 5 wt. No problems. Put it all back together, and I notice a soft "clunk" when I rock back and forth on the bike with the front brake locked up. It "clunks" at the very beginning of the compression stroke and again at the very top of the rebound stroke. I didn't notice that it did that before I did the work, but then (stupidly) I didn't check. When I had the fork tubes off and were draining them, I also noticed a sort of detent when sliding the damper on the right leg (compression) up and down. Damn, what does this mean??? Russ | ||
| Rocketman |
Russ : Are you sure it isn't the rotor \ pins knocking on the carrier. You might notice this when the motor is running and you're stood still with the front brake applied and you can feel the vibration travel up to the bars. Rocket in England | ||
| Ara |
Rocket: Thanks for responding. Yes, I'm sure it's not the brake rotor rattling. I know that sound well. This is definitely in the fork. I wish I'd done the same thing (rocked the bike with front brake applied) before I did the work so at least I'd know whether the problem existed prior. Nevertheless, the problem, if it is a problem, is there. When I changed the fork oil I didn't take the fork apart, as the Buell repair manual advises, and visually check for damage. All I did was remove the fork legs from the tripple clamps, remove the fork caps, upend the whole affair to drain out the old fluid, and pump the leg and the damper to ensure that all the old fluid drained out. I didn't drop it, beat my wife with it, or anything else stupid or clumsy. I was very careful because, I admit, I'm just a little spooked at the prospect of having to take the fork legs apart. I've never done it before, and I lack the special tools to seat the seals, etc. Theories anyone? Once again, the symptom is that there's a noticeable "bump" or "clunk" that you can feel and hear while testing the front suspension action by rocking the bike with the front brake applied. It occurs at the very top of the stroke and in both directions, compression and rebound. Thanks to all in advance for your thoughts on this. Others may want to do the "test" on their own bikes and see if they notice something similar. Russ | ||
| Buellzebub |
Russ, maybe check the tension on the head bearings before you rip the forx apart, sounds almost like there is too much play in the head | ||
| Sparky |
Russ, So you didn't take out the springs, spacers and what not? If you did, make certain everything goes back in the same way they came out. I believe there is a preferred orientation for the springs, the closer spaced coils being at the bottom. Try the same test with the front tire up against a wall without touching the front brake. That'll remove one variable from the equation. Chances are when you reinstalled the caliper, there may now be clean spots at the rotor/pin wear points that'll make some sort of noise while rocking back & forth w/fr brake on. Also double check the routing of the front brake hose and speedo cable. These may not have been put back in their original positions and might be hanging up somewhere. Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Ara |
Buellzebub: I'm certain that it's not the steering head bearings. When I reassembled the steering head I slightly overtorqued the bearings and that's when I first noticed the noise/feel from the suspension. I've corrected that, but the sound/feel from the suspension remains unchanged. It's impossible to localize the source by sound, but the feel tells me it's from the forks. Sparky: Sorry, yes I did remove the springs and spacers. My impression was that you had to in order to get the corrrect fluid level. I know that I put the spacers back the way they were, but I swear that my springs have a uniform coil spacing throughout. I didn't see anything in the manual to indicate that there was a top and a bottom to the springs. It's a 97 S3, BTW. I'll do the checks you suggested and write again. Thanks, guys. I really appreciate your help and interest. Russ | ||
| Blake |
Russ: Sounds like your steering head bearings may be loose, like Buellzebub suggested. | ||
| Ara |
Guys when I grab the fork legs and push and pull, there is no sound and the only movement I get is visible at the engine isolators as I weight and unweight the bike. After resetting the torque on the head shaft bolt, I get the specified 7.5 to 9.5 lbs of pull at the front axle in both directions. It's a little lighter pull from left to right than right to left, but still in the zone. Sparky has x-ray eyes or something, because somehow he knew that I had misrouted the speedometer cable. Thanks, Sparky! But that's not the source of the noise. Gadzooks, please don't tell me that I have to take the whole darn thing apart again! Are there any other easy checks I can do short of that? Thanks again, gents. Russ | ||
| Sparky |
Russ, Without taking the springs out again, other things to check for are dented steering head bearings and worn fork legs. If the head race is dented there could be slop in the straight ahead position even if it's properly torqued. But you would have felt this as notchy steering right away while riding straight and it probably wouldn't make noise. If a fork leg or bushing is worn out there will be noticeable play with the front wheel off the ground. One of the forks on my high mileage S1 was worn about 0.060" and the seal was leaking but there was no noise associated with it, just imprecise steering. Well, if these are OK, remove the fork springs one at a time. You mentioned a detent in the right damper. Take the right spring out and check for the noise but put the cap on first (to keep oil from squirting out). If the noise is gone, I'd say the problem is isolated to that fork, be it poor assembly, bad damper or FOD. Besides the spring does your fork have spacers, washer & a large C clip like my 98 S3? If so that is a rather tricky assembly to get everything lined up properly. You may have had some kind of assembly glitch that caused one of those parts to snag or bind the spring. Hopefully, careful reassembly will fix it. If not, perhaps Andy S or Cap, who know more about these things than us mere mortals, can offer more help. Thanks, Sparky 96S1, 98S3 | ||
| Ara |
Sparky, thanks for the thoughtful advice. Each of my fork legs had a steel washer, a thin spacer, and a thicker spacer. I was careful to put 'em back the way I found em. Suppose it's the damper... how can I tell? Seems a simple matter to change out the damper; it's separating the slider from the fork leg that I'm terrified of. If I determine the problem is beyond me, is there a known and reputable specialist at rebuilding fork legs and is there anybody to steer clear of? What's that new hi-tech coating they apply to fork sliders these days? Is that a good thing to do on a bike that is ridden well within the limits of the law? Are there disadvantages to it? Thanks to all, Russ |
