| Author | Message | ||
     Yohinan |
One of my studs snapped on my today when I was riding. All I heard was a sudden raspy sound and knew exactly what it was. Anyway I have to drill out the piece of stud that is still in the head. Can anyone tell me what size studs I need to buy? Since I have to remove the header I figure I will replace all 4 while I am at it. This isnt covered under warranty is it? Thanks for the help. John | ||
| Reepicheep |
If it is a stock exhaust that you have not messed with, I would think it sure as heck *would* be a warranty repair. If it is aftermarket, you are at the mercy of the dealer. I would hope my dealer would help me provided I did not do something stupid to cause it myself, but would not really blame them if they didn't. The dealer should have the studs in stock. I believe they are the same as the sportster parts, and the failure is not terribly uncommon, at least not for dealers doing service on exhausts. Drilling the old stud out is the easiest way. People have claimed luck with careful alignment and reverse cut drills, but Jims makes an affordable tool that makes the whole procedure simple and painless, and gives nearly perfect results. I would get the tool, or find a dealer that will use one. Do not try using an easy out. I tried, and it went exceptionally badly. The question is why did it break. It is common on tubers with the old mounts (fixed with the Y mount), but pretty rare on the XB's. Are you running stock exhaust / headers? | ||
| Yohinan |
Yes running stock headers but a D&D can. Not sure what caused the problem. I doubt they will fix it under warranty but it's worth a try. I let my friend ride the bike and he dropped it and put a small dent in the header. Of course I know 99.9 percent of dealers will be like oh YUP thats what caused the stud to break so I figure I have to foot the bill myself. Then again why havent all the other studs broken if the dent in the header caused that one to break. Oh well. By the way what is the Jim's tool? Never heard of it. I usually drill the stud until I am using almost the same size diameter drill bit as the stud and it falls out. I have also used the reverse cut bits and had both good and bad luck with those. Thanks again. John | ||
| Reepicheep |
Then you are a better drill jockey then I am  The jims tool is just a bolt on drill bit guide. It is like $50 to $70 (forget exactly) and will line up the (included) drill bit perfectly to remove the old stud but protect the threads. Those that use it swear by it. I have not heard of many XB header studs breaking, so it may actually have been the dent that did it. It probably did not break the stud right away, but created some play, and the vibration finished the job. Was the other stud (intact one) still tight? The tubers would break studs more often. The bushing on the front mount would get cut through, and you would get metal to metal contact that would lead to excessive play. One stud nut would get loose or come off completely, and the other stud would break flush. The new Y mount (with vastly improved bushings) pretty much solved the problem, so long as you took care in lining things up when you installed the exhaust. | ||
| Yohinan |
I will look around for that tool. Do you happen to know the thread/pitch for the new stud I need to get? Also if not you know what size nut I need to get that threads onto the stud. Thanks again. John | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
John, I actually just replaced my header and prior to the job I went by the dealer and bought new studs and nuts just in case. Ended up not needing them, so if you aren't in a major hurry and can wait for a few days, PM me and we can work something out. Steve. | ||
| Al_lighton |
Drill Guide: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F7889514&rnd=6082 800&rrc=N&affl=&cip=69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=16029&cat=&catstr= Studs: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F7889514&rnd=9492 912&rrc=N&affl=&cip=69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=17113&cat=&catstr= Nuts: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F7889514&rnd=1451 133&rrc=N&affl=&cip=69.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=17134&cat=&catstr=HOME | ||
| Jackbequick |
"..know what size nut I need..." That is a 5/16" Fine/SAE/24 TPI nut. The thread in the cylinder casting is probably the same but I don't know that for sure. Sometimes studs will have fine thread for mounting and a coarse thread for the nut but that is probably not the case here. Jack | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
Jack, the thread in the head is coarse (5/16-18) while as you correctly stated, the thread protruding from the head is a 5/16-24. | ||
| Yohinan |
You guys are the shizzle! Thanks for the help. John Oh yes almost forgot. What about the total length of the stud? 2" maybe or longer? (Message edited by yohinan on September 21, 2005) | ||
| Jackbequick |
Thanks for correcting that, I said it was the other way around but now that you mention it I had it backwards. The coarse thread is better in cast iron because it is a weaker material. I am (was?) a machinist of sorts, I should have remembered that! I don't know the length but that 2" is probably a safe guess. You can always make them shorter if you have to. I'd look at a NAPA or some other old school auto parts place for a grade 5 or 8 stud. Jack | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
As I mentioned before, I have a complete set (studs and nuts) brand new that I ended up not using if anybody wants them... $14 including shipping via Priority mail. Steve. | ||
| Bomber |
studs and nuts are Sporties parts, too, and any dealership should have em (I've purchased them at 3 different shops -- you don't have to ask why, do ya?) |
