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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Drivetrain » Primary Drive: Sprockets, Chain, Tensioner, Adjustment » Archive through June 26, 2007 » Hot tranny cover? « Previous Next »

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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just took my bike for a ride, it has been under reconstruction since Nov '04. I don't remember my primary cover being hot to the touch after previous rides.

Is this normal for a 2000 M2? Noticed a smell like when you are ripping hardwood on the table saw and the blade starts burning the wood. Pulled into the garage after the maiden flight and ouch, burned my hand adjusting my shifter.

New style shifter mounted, fluid level (syn 3) was normal when I polished my derby cover last month and there are no puddles in the garage. Also adjusted the belt to quite a bit looser than the shop had it (snug).

Edit: breather line is normal and was not ever moved or changed in my rebuild project.

Suggestions and comments are appreciated.

-Mike

(Message edited by littlebuggles on September 07, 2005)
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 05:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ah yes, also added an "easy pull" clutch. It extends the hook on the ramp, increasing your leverage. No hang up though when clutch is in the bike is out of gear...
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Littlebuggles:

Put in an "EASY PULL" and all "i" got was a clutch that was easier to pull(NO HEAT) ...

Stand bike strieght up,remove CLUTCH INSPECTION
COVER, oil should be at the bottom of CLUTCH
DIAPHRAGM SPRING ...

Another way to cut down on transmission HEAT is to adjust the primary chain(on tight spot) to
5/8 to 3/4 inch(as close to 5/8's as you can) ...

Also remove the spring plate(CLUTCH) if you have a TUBE FRAME and replace it with two steel and
one friction plates for a better clutch !!!


In BUELLing
LaFayette

(Message edited by buellistic on September 07, 2005)

(Message edited by buellistic on September 07, 2005)
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Wednesday, September 07, 2005 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Buellistic, I'll check my primary chain tension and double check the fluid level, everything seemed abnormally hot...

Can Al or DaveS supply the clutch parts you suggest? Normal parts? I'm not terribly comfortable with tranny's

-Mike

(Message edited by littlebuggles on September 07, 2005)
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2005 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"..remove the spring plate(CLUTCH) if you have a TUBE FRAME and replace it with two steel and
one friction plates..."

This adds three plates to the stock pack, right? And the spring plate has to go back in right? I noticed that the (potentially dangerous) clutch disassembly per the SM needs a special tool. Is there a safe, more expedient, home mechanic method? Using a bearing press or something like that?

Jack
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Buellistic
Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2005 - 05:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jackbequick:

NO Jack !!!

The two steel and one friction replace the
SPRING PLATE !!!

You will need the SPECIAL TOOL or "IMPROVISE ONE" to get clutch apart(put some of that good
NAVY training to use now)...

In BUELLing
LaFayette
Ljenne73c@verizon.net
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Jackbequick
Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2005 - 07:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Okay, I guess I was thinking the spring plate had to be there for it to work.

I hate buying special tools, I guess I'll figure it out if I have to take one apart. I have an oxy-acetylene cutting rig, maybe that will work. It is setting right over there behind the bearing press.

Jack
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