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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » New Bueller? General Advice for Potential Buyer » Archive through October 01, 2005 « Previous Next »

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Cerbero
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 01:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

assuming the parts are still available! i was reading in another thread about big brother starting to discontinue some parts for the tube frame models...

though it's good to hear they age well... i love this thing and hope to beat the record i set with my bmw (over 250K miles!)

edited by cerbero on March 08, 2004
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 08:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't worry, the reports of the deaths of the tube framers are highly exaggerated.

Some of the custom parts makers (like Banke) are talking about dropping manufacturing of some of the custom parts, but the core of the parts should be there for a long time.

And 80% of the parts of my Cyclone that broke were plain jane sportster parts, those will probably be around for another 50 years easy. Even many of the "Buell" parts are outsourced aftermarket (headlight, turnsignal, controls, etc), so those will probably linger as well.

For commuting miles, I would not be suprised if you easily got 35k to 50k out of the big engine parts.
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Bigdaddy
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 08:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A good and regular maintenance schedule will see you reach the 50K plateau with no major issues. The core of the motorcycle will have no near-term parts availability issues. In your situation, a commuter, I would recommend going with the larger oil filter (ugly but very effective at adding capacity) and if you're not running synthetics I'd start on the next maintenance.

I've got a very good friend with an older model M2 and it has 21+K miles and he only has one riding style -- Wide Open / Constantly Flogging it -- and he's had no major issues.

Keep the fluids changed and ride that thing. You happen to be the proud owner the most versatile motorcycle ever produced.

As a long-term owner of HD motorcycles (I've had a Duc and a BMW too) I can stand up and say to anyone (and prove it) that my M2 is the best motorcycle I've ever owned.

Greg
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

M2 survival guide... Not all applicable to all years, but a good starting list. Easy enough to do over time. All well covered by this board, just search the knowledge vault.

1) Updated front exhaust mount. Was goodwill, probably not any more, I paid for mine.

2) Front and rear new metal rocker box gasket.

3) Shock (goodwill upgrade).

4) Speedo sensor voltage regulator / updated part. Ignore it until it blows, make sure you get the regulated replacement part.

5) Rejet carb. Add supertrapp IDS / Buell Race IDS.

6) Around 10k to 15k miles, drop the oil pump and look up at pinion drive gear and see if wear is excessive.

7) Put mobil 1 gear oil in the tranny, huge improvement in shifting.

8) Hacksaw + rear plate holder.

9) Yodude flytrap is nice.

10) Forcewinder intake is nice, just tee breathers and route them around the front of the engine and down by the shock, where it just drips (with our without a filter, your choice).

11) Larger oil filter is nice (Ford FL1A), but make sure it is tied on somehow or it can spin off. There is an intermediate size as well, also a ford part (used by my 96 ford windstar V6), that might be better. That full Fl1A gets dinged from that front motor mount.

12) Full synthetic (Mobil 1 15-50 or any full syn 20w50) will run noticably cooler.

Thats a good starting list : )
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Bigdaddy
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 09:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Excellent point on the FL1A -- It will spin off. If you're willing to spend the extra bucks K&N has a FL1A equivalent with wire-tie built (Thanks to CycloneCharlie on that info.)

I routed my spooge tubes 2 into 1 and then used a AutoZone ($1.75) radiator petcock at the end of the tube. I can now do a spooge release in a controlled manner -- blowing it out works too.

Greg
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Cerbero
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 01:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i believe most of the recalls were made by the previous owner, who took very good care of it and installed all sorts of Bells & Whistles™.

it already has a cf hamcan... but the forcewinder is beautiful (and would suit my 6'-4" frame), but how does it do in the rain? i live in san francisco, and it can get very wet here!

i hacked off the licence plate holder myself (a conservative 3.5 inches removed) until i can get something better.

thanks for the oil suggestions. lube is always good.

uh... "yodude flytrap"? whazzat?
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Reepicheep
Posted on Monday, March 08, 2004 - 05:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They were selling them on ebay, don't know if they are still there or not. It is an inexpensive hinge, bolt, and snap set that will convert your flyscreen into a hinged storage compartment, enough room for a small tool bag. Very handy.

You could probably rig the same setup yourself with snaps, industrial velcro, or even wingnuts and bolts or something. It's an easy setup.

People have taken the forcewinders through frog choking rains and not had problems. They include a rain sock, but I never used it (including one ride in heavy rain), and never had a problem.

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Gixxer851
Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 09:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'll try and keep this short, but knowing me it'll be long....
I've had my 2002 X1 a week and half now and all is going well, and I'd like to keep it that way. It turns out that my bike was almost certainly used as a race bike, but I think only for three race meetings. It is fitted with a race ecu, header/muffler and air filter, is generally in very good condition, except for some minor crash scratches. It has a new belt fitted, and from the marks on the swingarm looks like it had a 61 tooth pulley on the back for the track, but has the 55 tooth pulley now.
I've always done my own maintenance/repairs/modifications to my previous bikes ('89 GSXR750, FZ750, XS1100, three(!) KZ750's, etc etc). If it can be done with hand tools I do it, if not I take out the parts and take them to someone who can - eg boring cylinders.
Since this is the newest bike I've owned, and I really don't know how many miles are on it (I guess under 1000 miles) or its service history, I've booked it in to the dealer in town for a "first" service and full check over. The guys there have a really good reputation and know the situation and are happy to check it over for me.

So I have two questions:

1. Considering the lack of history, can anyone think of special things I should ask them to look for/check?

2. There's a lot of mentions about using Mobil oil in the primary instead of HD oil. The bike seems to shift ok now (not as good as my GSXR, better than a Guzzi or BMW), but I don't what oil is in it. Is it Mobilube SHC 75W-90 that most people are talking about? I can give that and the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 engine oil to the dealer to use if I want to.

I have a service manual on order and plan to do the maintenance myself after this "first" service.

Any thoughts or comments are very much appreciated, cheers,
graham
PS I LOVE the bike. Have wanted one for ages : )
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Reepicheep
Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stuff we talk about is Mobil 1 Gear oil, that is pretty close to the Mobil 1 VTwin (20w50), but with a custom additive package for tranny applications. Stuff that trannies love, but combustion chambers hate. I would not be suprised if you are already running it.

Mobil 1 VTwin would be fine as well, as would the Harley Syn3.
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Gixxer851
Posted on Tuesday, July 06, 2004 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Reepi,
Just worked out from the Mobil sites that the Mobilube SHC 75W-90 we get here isn't the same as the Mobil 1 Gear Oil you can get in the U.S. It is probably close, but not the same.
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Lago888
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2004 - 07:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hi guys
I am a new BUELL-er, and gotta admit it is a kick a** m/c. I have not done all my homework, and do not have all my stats yet. but, I understand a "stock" 1200 Sportster engine is about 70 horses out of the factory. my 1998 BUELL S1W I understand to be up in the 100 HP range. is this correct ?
can someone give me an idea of how Eric Buell gets a 30% power gain out of this "factory stock" bike with Harley Davidson engine ?
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Mikej
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2004 - 08:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lago,
Start here with the pre-2004 Sportster:
Amazon link

Perform the Stage 2/3 upgrades.

You are now where Buells come stock, at least the later tubers.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2004 - 10:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those numbers are numbers at the crank, not numbers at the rear wheel, but they are reasonable.

The rear wheel numbers are a lot better to work with (though don't sound as good) because you can take your bike to a dyno and just measure them.
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Turnagain
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2004 - 10:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lago,

quote:

The end result, measured on the dyno at Maryland's Rockville Harley-Davidson, is 80 horsepower and 75.6 pound-feet of torque. A huge increase over stock.


from MPT's Motorweek Road Test (back when a S1W was new)
101 at the crank claimed by Buell.

Is the bike in China too?

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Blake
Posted on Friday, July 23, 2004 - 12:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

80 rwhp? That's a very low result for an S1W. Most were around 85 rwhp. Motorcycle Online's dyno test of a '98 S1W showed it to have 88.5 rwhp (see actual dyno chart here.

Motorcyclist Magazine's dyno test of a '99 S2 showed 90.1 rwhp.

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Lago888
Posted on Saturday, July 24, 2004 - 01:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hello from Beijing.
that is very helpful info to understand this American iron I now own here in China (I have been here since Y2000). I bought the BUELL last Fall & have slowly getting acquainted with it.
it is the 16th or 17th m/c I have owned, & easily one of the most interesting.

I also own a '99 Ducati ST-4, which is in Italy. and three other bikes here in Beijing, 1 Beemer & 2 Chang Jiangs (long story)


edited by lago888 on July 24, 2004
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Drwend1
Posted on Wednesday, August 18, 2004 - 05:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys

Can somebody tell me what the difference is between the Buell M2 race kit part no. 82001-99Y and no. 82001-01Y? I have an 02 M2 and am wondering if both will work or only the 01Y?

Thanks
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Izakwould
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 01:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm not sure if this is the right place to post or not, but here goes:

I've got the option to purchase a 1995 Buell S2 Thunderbolt with about 13,000 miles. I've got a couple of questions.

Can someone tell me what a good price range would be?

Is there anything I should look out for? I've heard that there have been a bunch of recalls, but I don't really know any specifics. I currently own a Yamaha cruiser, and am interested in adding this as a second bike. Any tips or advice anyone can offer would greatly be appreciated.
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Bomber
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 01:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Izak

I suggest you post over on the OLD School Buell thread -- lots of good data there, and the S2 community seems to check that thread pretty often
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Captainkirk
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 10:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Izak;
Go to the KV (Knowledge Vault); find the topic listed as "Service/Technical bulletins" and read the list of recalls. This will list all the bikes they apply to. Check this against what's been done to the bike you're interested in. If you have any specific questions, check with the guys in the S2 thread under "Old School Buell". If anyone will know, they will!
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, October 28, 2004 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Izak,

Anywhere between $4k and $5k would seem fair to me. Ditto what Cpt. Kirk said about the recalls.
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Nitsebes
Posted on Monday, November 01, 2004 - 05:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Last month I paid $4500 for my 96 S2 w 15k miles and I feel like I stole it for that. New muffler and chromed wheels were 2 grand alone.Also new billet pegs/brake/shifter.Thanks to depreciation I own a bike that sold new for upwards of 11 grand.Buy it.I'm planning on buying another one I like it so much .
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Billy49
Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 01:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys and gals, I am a potential Buell XB1200R buyer, I am tossing up between a Buell and a Honda VTR1000 Super Hawk.
Now before anyone castrates me heres the deal.
I will ride mainly on the weekend with my brother who will own a CBR1100XX Honda and we will be riding for probably 1-2-3- or 4 hours straight, i have heard that the Buells don't like doing this distance???
Bad brakes, Bad Seat leaning over too much???

I love the look and the sound and the individuality of the Buell and this might just tip me over the edge but I have some concerns.

I am in Australia and the rec retail for this Buell is $17,000 as opposed to the Honda at $13,000, this is a big difference when you consider what you have to do to the Buell to make it a good(?) bike.

All comments are welcome, but don't bash me as I love Harleys and Buells this is just practicality VRS Heart.

billy
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Ethanr


Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 01:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Honest questions won't get you bashed on this board. A lot of us ride more than one brand and enjoy the differences.

I can't speak for the R model, but I've put a number of 300-500 mile days on my XB12S, 1 on the freeway and the others on twisties. If you're going to do a lot of straight-line riding, I'd recommend something other than the Buell. I haven't ridden the Hawk so I can't comment on it, but a number of the other liter (um, litre?) bikes are much more comfy on the straights.

If your rides will include more curves, though, it'll be hard to beat the Buell. It's just flat-out more fun than anything else I've ever ridden.

What, exactly, are you thinking you'll need to do to the XB to "make it a good bike?" Brakes? I haven't heard of any problems. Reliability, torque and handling are already there. Some folks do replace bars, grips, windshield (R), etc., but that's true of any make. Check out the "Sponsor News" section for replacement options as well as luggage.

There are a number of Aussie riders on the board who might fill you in on the scene there. You may also want to check out the BuellinOz site.

As many folks here will tell you, the best thing to do is get yourself a test ride so you can compare the two for yourself and see which one fits you better...and which gives you the most grins.
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Reepicheep


Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 08:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The superhawk (thats the Honda water coole OHC twin, right?) is a bike I always wanted to like, but I don't hear a lot of people (owners included) showing a lot of affection for the thing. It was kinda like the SV-650, another revvy twin. They seem to have many of the bad characteristics of an inline four (lousy milage, weak low RPM power) with none of the advantages (monster power up top).

Based on what you are describing you want to do, there may be better suited bikes then an XB, but I don't think the superhawk (assuming that is the bike I am thinking of) is one of them.

I think you have it backwards, for anything but raw horsepower, I think the superhawk would take a lot of time and money to bring anywhere near the XB (in particular suspension and handling).

If horsepower is your main concern, neither the superhawk or the XB is the right choice.

Also, a "perfect" bike you are not that fond of is much worse then an "imperfect" bike that you love. So don't worry about what others say about the XB, decide what *you* think about it.

Based on the narrow criteria you described, I would also be looking at the Honda Interceptor, and perhaps the Suzuki VStrom, Yamaha FJ1300, etc. All will be great for your "4 hour" rides, none will be as much fun as an XB though (IMHO).
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Blublak


Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 08:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Billy,
Welcome to the board. I've got the 9R and it's the same frame, wheels, brakes etc. So they are about comparable.

I've found that I (at 6ft and in the .. uh.. Rounder class of people) don't like doing more than 200 miles on it. Now, before you think I'm bashing the bike, my main problem is after 200 or so miles, my old and abused knees start to complain. The bike has no problems with the time/distance and is more than happy to continue long after I need to sit down and recuperate.

In the twisties, I 'feel' better. I think the bike is a perfect curve carver and has all the real world usable power you could want. If on the other hand, you guys are going to be riding the long straight highways I've seen pictures of out your way, you may want to consider a different ride, since long straights are better suited to a more 'touring' type bike.

The brakes are probably some of the best available .. anywhere.. on anything. Compared to a lot of repli-racer bikes, the seat and position aren't bad at all. I think a Gixxer is a lot less comfortable over time, but that is me. Also, when in a crouch, don't use your arms and wrists to hold your body up, use your back and stomach more. Keep your arms bent.

As far as speed goes.. You won't be able to keep up with a 'Black Bird' on the long straights, he's just going to have too many ponies. Some adjustments can be made to the Buell, but you really don't need to do that much and it's more a matter of rider personality I would think than 'making a bike right'. Buell's are currently the most reliable machine I know of out there. So you should have no problems in that area.

Contact some of the other folks down under that are here, I'm sure they will be happy to help you out with checking the Buells out even more.

As "E" above me stated. Get a test ride in and then consider what sort of riding your planning on doing. Then make the call.

Oh, and as always.. Let us know how it goes.. We're all a very curious and friendly bunch.. really..

Later,
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Court
Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 08:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Billy:

My initial impression of the Buell XB9SX has me quite amazed with the road comfort. I can't speak to the other XB's, but the City Cross is a very relaxed and forgiving position. I'm going to find out more during some serious long distance days.

The brakes on the Buell are on par or superior with the bikes you've named. I'm a svelte 220#, likely 250# w/gear and a load of tacos, and have no problem, with two fingers, strolling the Buell along standing on it's nose gear.

If raw horsepower and comfort vs. price were you criteria, I'd recommend the Suzuki Bandit 1200. Surprisingly powerful, basically competent and features super-value pricing. Downside is that you'll have to live the reputation the bike exudes, dull and sterile, while your brother on the Dos Equis gets all the chicks and adoration.

Aussie prices pucker sphincters here in the USA, so I'm betting we'd get some "independent" opinions prior to popping for that kind of scratch.

Ride safely whatever you choose and keep up posted.....

Court
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Bomber


Posted on Thursday, January 06, 2005 - 09:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Billy -- Unless you are planning a great deal of 100 mph and above riding, the S model may be more your cup of tea -- the small amount of added legroom makes a big difference for guys with, er, after-market modified knees (like mine)

if you're really drawn by the fairing and low bars of the R model, be aware that the S pegs are a true bolt-on affair (ten minutes with a beer break), and cut down on the ground clearance very little at all -- semi-sane street riding will likely not touch the pegs down often at all --

as others have said, talk to the man that owns one, take as long a test ride as the dealer will allow, and make up your own mind --

most importantly, of course, enjoy your choice, and ride the wheels off it!
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Daves


Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 - 04:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My longest day on a XB-R is 572 miles. It wasn't a big deal.
I've done lots of 300-400 mile days.
Stock bars, stock pegs,stock seat, 0 Gravity windshield.

I am considering doing an Iron Butt this spring or summer on the XB12R
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Old_mil
Posted on Saturday, October 01, 2005 - 03:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

>I will ride mainly on the weekend with my brother
>who will own a CBR1100XX Honda and we will be
>riding for probably 1-2-3- or 4 hours straight, i
>have heard that the Buells don't like doing this
>distance???
>Bad brakes, Bad Seat leaning over too much???

I personally can't imagine doing big mileage days on any sportbike because of the seating position, the xb12r included. But the xb12s, I could do an ironbutt on. I already did one on my S3T...

Brakes are good, Corbin makes a replacement seat if you don't like the stock.
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