Author |
Message |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:02 pm: |
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Oh, and when that under voltage light goes on, the device has already cut power to the heaters in order to try and keep the battery charging. So if you have overloaded the system and are running at a low RPM, you might get cold hands, but you won't be pushing the bike home... |
Prior
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:15 pm: |
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Reep, I actually left my heated vest on one day to get the battery voltage down and then managed to get the bike started. Grips did not heat up, as expected, but came on right when the LED went green. I'll definitely stick to structures, hydraulics and engines- I can let a little smoke out and my stuff isn't ruined. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 05:38 pm: |
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Was the "percent discharged" indicator (don't tell how I did it yet ) usable? Could you look at it and tell how &^%$$% you were? |
Lulanord
| Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 11:39 am: |
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Hi...i am a new user here. In my case I looked into using a PWM, but couldn`t find one with a remotely mounted pot. Your totally automatic controller would eliminate any switch/control, which would be all the better. I just installed a custom dynamics voltage LED, Fatty`s post, so I wouldn`t need the idiot light, but I guess two wouln`t hurt. Could the led you use be installed in the speedo/tach panel, like the custom dynamics one? I don`t have a problem with soldering. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, March 13, 2017 - 01:24 pm: |
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Let me dig up what parts I have laying around. The current version has an arduino with full 16x2 LCD display with lots of fun info, but doesn't require the LCD to be hooked up to run. So you could stash the LCD and use it like a temporary diagnostic tool when you first set it up and any time you have problems. Let me see what's in "the parts tub". Feel free to remind me if I seem like I forgot, as it's Lacrosse season and I'm running in circles every night of the week.... |
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