Author |
Message |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 10:14 am: |
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I waited almost 3hrs between tightening and going to the next rocker box, I also verified I could wiggle the rocker on the push rod before I went ahead. Then only had to wait about and hour an ahalf for the rear to get loose enough to wiggle. I'll check timing when I get home from work today. How does the timing cup sensor get off, its stuck on the little divot on the end of the shaft? I'll pull some codes also. |
Falloutnl
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 10:23 am: |
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+1 on timing. And +1 on not hurting anything but the wrench when shorting to frame. I did that several times on the M2, it just spot welded the frame, wrench, and battery terminals. Doh. Yup I did that too. That wrench got real hot, real quick. The voltage regulator died pretty soon after, but that's probably just a coincidence. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 12:06 pm: |
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What should I be looking for under the timing cup? |
Akbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 01:19 pm: |
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Quick way to check the timing: Prop the rear wheel off the ground. Remove the spark plugs; put the trans in 5th gear. Pull the inspection plug at the base of the cylinders. Ign and stop/run switches on. Rotate the engine by 'bumping' the rear wheel. When the TDC mark shows in the center of the plug window, the fuel pump should cycle. If it doesn't, start with timing. If it does, the problem is elsewhere. Hope this helps, Dave |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 01:19 pm: |
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There is not much that can go wrong with that timing cup ,it does fit only one way. Did you mark the timing plate before removing? |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 01:42 pm: |
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Yes I marked it and put it in, exactly on the scribe marks. I'm going to check timing when I get home. It did run for about 5-10 secs then died this morning. The spark plugs fire, I didn't check injectors. The pump does prime. Hope its something simple as timing. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 01:46 pm: |
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Maybe just fouled plugs. Toss in a fresh set and see if it starts and runs fine. I never fouled a set of plugs on my M2 or XB9SX no matter how dumb I was. On my Uly, I did foul a set with a quick start and stop while thrashing on some other problem. |
Falloutnl
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 03:56 pm: |
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On my Uly, I did foul a set with a quick start and stop while thrashing on some other problem. How does that happen? |
Alfau
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 06:03 pm: |
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Running out of fuel will achieve that for you. It throws the ecm out of wack because it registers the need for more fuel and adds it accordingly. When you add fuel and try to start it will foul the plugs. There is a lot more to know about the fix. best bet is don't run out of fuel whatever you do. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 06:29 pm: |
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So I have codes, 14,15,33. Before I did all this work all of this worked fine. Any ideas. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 08:25 pm: |
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How do you test the timing by bumping the wheel. My fuel pump wont cycle unless I hold the clutch in. |
Buellrobot
| Posted on Wednesday, February 01, 2017 - 09:51 pm: |
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Someone had the same codes here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/637809.html?1309736140 |
Alfau
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2017 - 12:03 am: |
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You'll need a dyno to get timing exact. You can fluke with it ecmspy but in my experience, it's unlikley. Tuning the bike, step one starts with ignition timing. watch the colour of your headers. |
Falloutnl
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2017 - 05:00 am: |
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Running out of fuel will achieve that for you. It throws the ecm out of wack because it registers the need for more fuel and adds it accordingly. When you add fuel and try to start it will foul the plugs. There is a lot more to know about the fix. best bet is don't run out of fuel whatever you do. Right, thanks. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2017 - 08:40 am: |
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Thanks Buellrobot, So I retraced all my steps and found the ET sensor wire loose in its connector. Resnapped it in. and it started and ran, it was rough, so I did the static timing and had to adjust alittle. Now it runs good. Still have a small leak somewhere I cant seem to trace. I rode to work and just noticed oil drips on my shock. Ill clean it all off when I get home and see where its from. Thanks again guys for the advice/info. I'm ordering a ecmcable to check/clear codes. See what else need attention. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2017 - 08:50 am: |
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I always just did static timing with my M2, and in fact all of my Buells. Put the bike at TDC, use a multi-meter to sense the hall effect sensor transition, and time as per the manual. Why would the X1 be any different? Good point from Alfau about the some older fuel injected Buells committing "fuelicide" when they run out of gas. I don't remember when that got fixed. |
Ralph
| Posted on Thursday, February 02, 2017 - 09:23 am: |
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"Fuelcide" |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 12:54 pm: |
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Bikes running good now. So I got a question. Anyone know of a different bar bend or if anyone makes Bar backs for this bike so I'm not leaned over as much. Do normal Rox risers work? will it clear the Guages and tank? |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 02:05 pm: |
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Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 02:33 pm: |
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LOL, I just got off the phone with rox riser folks. They said they don't believe their product would work as it would likely hit the gauges or tank. Oh well, Maybe I'll get some protaper bars. |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 04:04 pm: |
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You could have a look at this https://www.preeng.com/xcart/1-Bar-Riser.html |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 05:22 pm: |
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My 2 cents Skip the risers find the correct bars with the right rise and pitch. You will be hapipier |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, February 03, 2017 - 06:35 pm: |
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Any recommendations of an aftermarket bar bend? |
Ralph
| Posted on Saturday, February 04, 2017 - 10:52 am: |
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The tall bars from an S3T with fit with no need to replace or even reroute your cables. The Blast bars are the same as S3T. You'll be able to find them pretty cheap. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Saturday, February 04, 2017 - 07:32 pm: |
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Sounds good thanks.} |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 09:22 am: |
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Hey guys, been out riding for acouple weeks now. I am pleased with everything so far but the poor lighting. Anyone have an idea of a better headlight that works or if I can take mine apart to clean it. The lens is foggy and reflector looks dirty. Anyone running any aux. lights on an X1? thanks Eric |
Bd3
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 11:48 am: |
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I have an HD halogen from my M2 [that now has an S3 fairing & headlamp]. You could try it and if OK, we could make a deal. I'm just down Hwy 78 in Snellville (where everybody is somebody). Let me know if interested. |
Egagnon086
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 12:37 pm: |
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IS the M2 light the same size? Was it brighter than stock. I'd be interested Snellville is just a short jaunt from Athens. |
S1owner
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:32 pm: |
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Put a nice HID kit in or go with an led light |
Bd3
| Posted on Friday, February 17, 2017 - 01:53 pm: |
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I am not 100% positive that the 2001 M2 and X1 have the same size headlamp. My M2 came with the HD halogen so I have no comparison to stock. It was bright, but not "daylight" bright. You are welcomed to try it out. It's just sitting in a storage box not doing anybody any good. We could meet in Between (Yes folks, there is a town called "Between" located about halfway between the metropolises of Snellville and Athens, GA). PM me |