| Author | Message | ||
     Ratbuell |
OK, I have to troubleshooot a clutch bearing noise during my 30k service. I figure while I have the primary off...I'll try out an XB9 primary. My manual says 210 lb-ft on the engine nut, but something in my brain says that was changed? '06 Uly. Figured I'd ask instead of digging through archives...  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Yes, a service bulletin increased the torque to 240-260 ft-lbs. See copy here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/155801.jpg Clean bolt and crank threads with brake cleaner and use liquid red Locktite (not the paste, DAMHIK) on the threads before assembly. (Message edited by Hughlysses on November 03, 2013) | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well shit. Clean threads. Liquid red. Assembled at 210 and all back together and test ridden. Guess I'll see if it makes noise before the next service. I have zero desire to disassemble it again tonight  | ||
| Etennuly |
 I hate when that happens! Hope your nuts stay where you put'em!  | ||
| Tootal |
Hey Rat, I did the same thing. Had it done before I found out. I had cleaned the threads with a dremel wire wheel and then brake cleaner. Used red loctite and have not had any problems and that was quite a while ago. I'm thinking you're good to go. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'm still debating keeping the 9 setup anyway. losing the mph on the highway will bug me on longer trips down the slab. and, the magnets on the 9 rotor aren't as strong as my OE magnets. I only had 1 green on the gauge today where I'd have had 2 with my OE set. Same electrical load. (Shrug). we'll see... | ||
| Hughlysses |
I suspect you'll be OK too. The nut must have worked loose just often enough so that the factory decided it was worth doing something about. It wasn't a recall and I don't think they bothered bikes that didn't have an issue. At any rate, 210 ft-lbs is still the recommended torque for tubers, and those have practically the same power. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Symptoms of a loose crank nut on an M2 were a kind of gong / ringing with the firing of each cylinder. Only happened when clutch was disengaged, any clutch drag whatsoever (not even enough to move the bike) would make the subtle gong / clang go away. I ran it that way for a 35 mile ride back to the garage, minimizing the time spent without the clutch engaging the transmission, with no discernible damage to either crank or stator bell (or stator). | ||
| Hughlysses |
I always make the comment about using liquid Locktite on the threads after I caused a bad experience on my Buell S3. I had to replace the stator on it (a few months after switching to Mobil-1 gear oil in the primary) and I thought I'd try the paste/lipstick tube red Locktite when I put it back together. Well, working by myself it took a while to get the nut threaded on, get locking bar in the sprocket, and get the nut up to torque without pushing/pulling the bike off the rear stand. My guess is I took too long to do it and I "broke" the Locktite as it was setting up. Anyway, the bike was fine for the 2 or 3 months I rode it, until I bought a Uly. ~1 year later, I sold it to Badwebber Buelltours who did a "fly and ride" out of Charleston ~250 miles up to Asheville, NC to meet his family. Apparently the crank nut worked loose on the trip and by the time he got to Asheville, he thought the bottom end of the engine was gone. (I'm sure he thought some REALLY BAD thoughts about me on those last 20 or 30 miles.) He pulled into a Harley dealership and believe it or not, even though they weren't a Buell dealer, they took it in the back and quickly diagnosed the loose crank nut, re-tightened it, and sent him on his way. Cornell still has the bike and he and I are friends, so all is well, but I've never forgotten that lesson! | ||
| Ratbuell |
I'll definitely keep an ear out. who knows...I may get bored one day and decide to crack er open again to retorque And I've only ever used the liquid thread locker. I just "trust" it more to get into the threads I guess... | ||
| Tootal |
Unless you're trying to outrun a sport bike on the top end, I don't think your cruising speeds will be a problem. My bike actually runs smoother at the higher rpm and when you need to pass somebody it reacts much quicker which is nice. My old Cagiva Gran Canyon turned 5000 rpm at 70. The XB9 primary runs 3800 or so. | ||
| Ratbuell |
My problem is I typically cruise on the slab at 80 to keep from getting rear ended in DC region traffic. The swap bumped my rpm at that speed to over 4000...which I can live with but it concerns me from a longevity standpoint. I know. I could always slow down. 4k now is "only" 75, but that puts me smack in the middle of traffic pace, texting drivers, and other morons. I prefer going a hair faster so they're coming at me from the front, not behind. But it'll just take some adjustment and getting used to. It is a hoot in the twisties though | ||
| Tootal |
The thing is, at 4000 rpm you're still not "on the cam". I think 4500 is when the motor starts to really make power, at least from the seat of the pants dyno! The higher rpm makes it a "point and shoot" in traffic! |
