Author |
Message |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 02:03 am: |
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Hey I've got a question I'm trying to figure out some engine specs on this x1 I bought the guy I bought it from said it was bored 40 over and had racing heads on it(something about stage 3 kit or whatever idk. I'm not sure if any of that is true or not I really don't care as it runs good except for the fuel needs to be remapped but I'm wondering if anyone knows any easy ways to tell if any of that is true? Let me know thanks I will post some pics of my engine up tommorrow. (Message edited by Tll130 on July 30, 2013) |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 03:43 am: |
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from sscycle.com... "Pretty fast for a stock bike, brother!" That’s a comment you might hear when you’re running an S&S® 97" or 106" big bore kit with our new, redesigned and retooled cylinders. We’ve made a host of changes to improve the strength and cooling capabilities of our big bore cylinders, but best of all we’ve made them cosmetically difficult to tell from stock Harley-Davidson® jugs. Upgrade your ride with more displacement and power, but don’t let anybody know! I'm just guessing, but I'll bet the PO heard that from the guy he bought it from. Easiest way to tell is by a sales receipt! |
Stev0
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 05:49 am: |
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From memory I think you can only get pistons to 0.030" over... so I'd take his other info with a grain of salt too. Ride it and have fun on it and then if it needs work you can pull it down and see what's actually in there.. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 09:21 am: |
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Sounds good thanks for the info. |
Azrael_cervale
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:33 am: |
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Wiseco actually makes .040 pistons but that is their Max. All things are possible. Just enjoy the bike and if you ever tear it down you can verify. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:56 am: |
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Gotcha does anyone know the stock heads that came on the x1 if I figure that out at least I can tell if he's got the originals or aftermarkets on there. |
Oldog
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 02:48 pm: |
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The original heads have the word Buell cast into the intake side of the head on the bottom. They are what are called thunderstorm heads, they are High flow heads, from the factory, BTW they require specific pistons. The later Buells have heads that were similar to later sporty heads, featuring bee-hive springs and different valves. these have specific pistons as well. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 09:00 pm: |
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On the bottom of my heads it is stamped millenium. Anyone know anything about them? |
Stev0
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 09:38 pm: |
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Is Millenium on your heads or barrels ?? I have some Millenium barrels. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 09:53 pm: |
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Maybe it is the barrels it's stamped on I will throw up some pics |
Stev0
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:01 pm: |
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Millenium made NiCaSil barrels in a 1250 kit, so it may be out to 0.040" NRHS used to use them until they got a better deal elsewhere. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:03 pm: |
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Trying to throw up a pic but its giving me problem |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:08 pm: |
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But it's stamp on each cylinder at the closest spot to the bottom right before they attach to the base If that makes sense? |
Kalali
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:15 pm: |
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Take a close look. You could very well have an NHRS 1250cc kit in there. They can make good power if properly tuned. Does it have a carb or FI? The 1250cc upgrades with FI need well sorted fuel/timing maps to run optimally. Tough to do without a dyno. |
Tll130
| Posted on Tuesday, July 30, 2013 - 10:19 pm: |
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its FI I need to get the tuning cord to change my fuel maps cuz right now it has the race ecm in it(labeled "for race use only") and it runs sorta like shit lol. I finally got my pic to the right pixel size and now it says its to many k/b >< (Message edited by Tll130 on July 30, 2013) |
Scott_in_nh
| Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 09:15 am: |
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I just put the 1250 kit on my S3 and, after running it in the closed loop tuning mode, it runs really well with the race ecm. That said I will be on a dyno soon. You may be running poorly because you need a TPS reset. Yes you will need the cable and ECMspy. |
Tll130
| Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 12:55 pm: |
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How do you run it in a closed loop? Maybe I will try that and see if it fixes at least some of it. |
Kalali
| Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 08:19 pm: |
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Ride the bike at a steady pace for 15-20 minutes while keeping the engine speed around 3000-3500 RPMs. A nice relaxed highway run will do suit the bill. (Message edited by kalali on July 31, 2013) |
Tll130
| Posted on Wednesday, July 31, 2013 - 10:01 pm: |
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Gotcha thanks I will try it at some point on a weekend when there's not alot of traffic |
Tll130
| Posted on Friday, August 02, 2013 - 02:38 pm: |
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Ran it in a closed loop fixes absolutely nothing lol there is a couple problems with it I think it's getting to much fuel at full throttle when I go full throttle it pretty much stops firing and starts to loose power for a couple seconds then after like 2-3 seconds picks back up. Then after a shift and full throttle again it does the same thing. Advice? Also it seems to be lacking power at low rpm 0-2500 or so. The only Rpms that seem to be running right is like 2600-4k (Message edited by Tll130 on August 02, 2013) |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Friday, August 02, 2013 - 05:53 pm: |
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I know I sound like a one-man band, but if at full throttle, and running rough at idle (seems like it's running on one lung), then maybe, just maybe, it's the ETS (engine temp sensor) Al and Joanne at American Sport Bike sell them. About $80 plus shipping. I'd change that, do a TPS reset, then see what happens. |
Tll130
| Posted on Friday, August 02, 2013 - 10:27 pm: |
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Well I haven't tuned it yet(idk I po did it or not) so Im hoping its maybe messed up fuel maps? At least I'm hoping and I think I will go from there. Does anyone have a extra ecm cable I could buy? |
Kalali
| Posted on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 08:47 am: |
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Actually, I suggest a TPS reset first before changing any parts. That may fix or improve your running issues. |
Tll130
| Posted on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 02:41 pm: |
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Gotcha so tps reset then tune then still if nothing then start replacing parts |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 10:19 pm: |
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Check the reading on the head temp sensor. It WILL run like crap it's bad. I've had two X1's come through my garage that were having serious drivability issues. Both were temp sensors. |
Tll130
| Posted on Saturday, August 03, 2013 - 11:04 pm: |
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Do you have a quick set of instructions on how to check that? Not familiar with it. |
Kalali
| Posted on Sunday, August 04, 2013 - 08:46 am: |
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If you have ECMSpy, the easiest way to check, albeit not conclusive, is compare the readings between the inlet air temp (IAT) sensor and engine temp sensor (ETS) while engine is at room temperature. The readings should be within +/- a couple of degrees. You can also take additional readings as the engine warms up to see if it is reacting to temperature change. My bike gets up to ~175C (reading taken with infrared temp gun pointed at the ETS) at operating temperature. I think I've seen a resistance vs. temperature table somewhere but don't recall off hand where. (Message edited by kalali on August 04, 2013) (Message edited by kalali on August 04, 2013) |
Tll130
| Posted on Monday, August 05, 2013 - 01:01 pm: |
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Ok will do I am just waiting to get my new headlight in then I'm gonna sell my orig one on my x1(no damage or hazing at all) and then use the money from that to get a cable for ecmspy |