| Author | Message | ||
     Easyrider |
For the people who like to keep informed about product development: This tool is a easy to use tool developed by Twin Motorcycles to lock the Buell 1125R and Buell 1125CR crank in TDS for service on camshafts or timing chain adjustments. https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/media/set/?se t=a.2580125354906.2129760.1607594289&type=1 | ||
| Nillaice |
cool. is it heat-treated to withstand the insane rotor-nut torque? and how much? | ||
| Easyrider |
Nillaice, The Upper piece is billet aluminium the lower piece is made off stainless steel, we beat the hell out of it, and i can tell you it holds the rotor nut torque and much more (-: | ||
| Timebandit |
do you have info posted anywhere else? we've got facebook blocked on our network. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Re: insane rotor nut torque, 300 FT LBS has been mentioned around the board various times, if you read the manual it's 207-214 FT LBS, that's 295 NM. So remember that! | ||
| Easyrider |
http://twinmotorcycles.com/webshop/artikel.asp?gui d=YXHFSC&aid=4129&cid=0&s=&aname=Buell_1125_RCR_TM _Crank_TDC_locking_tool_ | ||
| Jdugger |
Duph, The spec for the stator nut was increased to 300lbs after the publishing of the service manual. I've been wondering the next time I service mine if I shouldn't just take it to 250 and then use loctite green on the assembly? 300 is really hard for me to safely generate. The challenge of securing the bike, lift and leverage required to get to 300lbs isn't trivial... Not to mention the torque wrench required to get that high... | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I'm about to start my installation of the ebr stator/rotor kit so I'm all over this topic. I read somewhere on this board that 150 ft lbs was ok for normal street use and 300 for track use, i.e. extended high rpm running, so 210-250 fits in there nicely if that's accurate. Was it from ebr that this increase to 300 was recommended? Any comments from them about that? And I wasn't able to get the Loctite 648 green around here, but did find the Permatex high temperature (450 degrees f.) threadlocker red, specifically mentioning crankshaft use.Presuming that will be ok.? Just spoke to Mitsui (sp?) at Bartell HD in LA, he said at 220 ft lbs the nut would loosen in racing, so 300 it is for him, and he also said to use the red Loctite 272 over the green 648. (Message edited by duphuckincati on December 14, 2011) | ||
| Daggar |
I have an email from EBR that says tighten it to 210 ft/lbs, back off 720 degrees, then retighten to 300 ft/lbs. They also said to use red Loctite 272 and also that the nut must be cleaned or replaced. | ||
| Jdugger |
I'd take the EBR recommendations at Gospel on this one, personally. That's exactly the procedure I'll use, too. Gonna need a 6ft, 3/4 drive torque wrench. Gonna cost a fortune.  | ||
| Duphuckincati |
I'm going to my local 18 wheeler repair place and see if one of the mechanics can come by my place with his torque wrench for some beer money. I also just spoke to Permatex (over the phone, live person!!) and he confirmed the Permatex high temp red is the same as the Loctite 272. NAPA auto parts #765-2680. | ||
| Duphuckincati |
"I have an email from EBR that says tighten it to 210 ft/lbs, back off 720 degrees, then retighten to 300 ft/lbs. " Just got the same thing. That's the latest. | ||
| Stirz007 |
"Gonna need a 6ft, 3/4 drive torque wrench. Gonna cost a fortune." Yep - better figure about a Grand. Me thinks Duph's idea is better - except I'd trade for beer and not beer money. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO-Micrometer- Torque-Wrench-4YA72?Pid=search | ||
| Timebandit |
A grand? Grainger wants $1327. Yikes! Grainger is probably the most expensive place on earth to buy something like this. For that price you could buy two of them from Snappy: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool= all&item_ID=55268&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store& dir=catalog http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tools.asp?tool=all& Group_ID=954&store=snapon-store At the other end of the spectrum, here's a budget 3/4" drive torque wrench that maxxes out at 300 ft-lb. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-driv e-click-stop-torque-wrench-808.html I can't say how confident I'd be in a torque wrench from HF (no experience). T the difference between $75 and $1327 is about $1250, or 17x. Snap-On looks a lot better to me than Grainger. | ||
| Jgarner99 |
Guys, you don't need to buy an expensive torque wrench! A torque wrench is vital if the fastener or the torque value is small, and very useful for accurate repeat operations... but for a super-high setting like 300 lbs.-ft., just use plain old math. 1) Find a sturdy, 3/4 or 1" drive breaker bar. 2) Fit a piece of steel pipe over it (2 to 2-1/2" NPT, whatever fits), in order to make its total length 6 feet. 3) Push down on the end with 50 pounds of force. You can practice your push on a bathroom scale, or just use some barbells to weight the end of the bar, whichever you prefer. The goal is to achieve a force equal to 300 pounds at the end of a one-foot lever. That's the same thing as 30 lbs. at the end of 10 feet, or 50 lbs. at the end of 6 feet. It ain't rocket science. | ||
| Timebandit |
Thinking about this some more, I had thought about the DIY approach too. With obscenely high torque values like 300 it becomes a lot easier to calculate and apply torques accurately. If anyone's interested in doing it this way, there are a few caveats to keep in mind if you want to do it with breaker bars and weights: 1. If you're using a long bar, or adding lots of weights to a short bar, you might need a helper to hold the socket in place while you apply the torque or add weights to the other end of the bar. 2. You might be able to get around having a helper if you put an extension bar between the breaker bar and the socket to act as an axle. Then put a jackstand under the extension (axle) to act as a fulcrum. Now you can work at the other end of the bar without a helper. 3. If you're going to hang weights, you'll get an accurate torque value if the breaker bar is horizontal when you're hanging the weights. If it deviates much from horizontal, then the force of gravity pulling straight down on the weights won't be perpendicular to the bar, which could throw off your calculations. If the bar is not horizontal then this becomes a high school physics problem and you'll need to use simple trig to determine how much additional weight to add to the bar. Of course, this is not a problem if you have a properly calibrated arm.  If you don't want to go with weights, then for infrequent home use the inexpensive Harbor Freight torque wrench might be just the ticket. | ||
| Jdugger |
Time, Please no more practical advice like this that keeps me from justifying adding tools to the kit with the wife. Bad, bad post! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
have to agree with JD on this one Time - women have shoes....men have tools! (from a man who has daughters) | ||
| Stirz007 |
Nuts - add me to that camp - I'm somewhat obsessive on tools (and I'll probably spring for the tool that is the subject of this thread). Still, the high side of $750 for a single-use tool would be a bit much. I consider the HF stuff disposa-tools, generally junk, and I come from the "never buy cheap tools - they break, they never work as well as the good ones and you won't be happy with them - always buy good tools, they last forever if you take care of them" - school. I still say trading a few beers for use of someone else's torque wrench would be the best solution for me. I am familiar with torque calculations and could jury-rig something up, but would rather have an actual torque wrench for this job. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I have a two foot non ratchet breaker bar, and I use that. Being fat helps. Just calculate how far out from the center of the socket you have to stand based on your weight, balance yourself on the bike or whatever, and gradually apply weight until your full weight is on the breaker bar with your foot centered at the right spot. Works fine, and with a 2 foot breaker bar, you would only have to weigh 150 pounds to get up to 300 ft lbs of torque. | ||
| Timebandit |
Sorry Brothers. Thought I was helping. Maybe you could help me redeem myself if you could put a spin on it: "Honey, look how much money I SAVED by not buying that torque wrench. Now I've saved enough money to buy that magnesium front wheel... or the chain drive kit... or the FMF slippy... or the ..." | ||
| Stirz007 |
Time - well played, amigo. Let her buy some new furniture, then you're green-lighted... |
