Author |
Message |
Rarebird
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 07:04 pm: |
|
So, where is everyone finding their PH400 Polly heaters these days? I need a new set... Thanks! -Mike |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 07:54 pm: |
|
http://www.pollyheaters.com/ph400.htm I go to the source. |
Ft_bstrd
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 07:56 pm: |
|
I also prefer the Symtech round rocker switch: http://www.amotostuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?s tore_code=AML&screen=PROD&product_code=300005
|
Druelly
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 09:31 pm: |
|
I like the look of that switch Ft_b. The stock switch OEM is not great. It can easily be pushed past low and onto high without noticing it, and the low setting is sometimes too hot! |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 10:28 pm: |
|
I bought my Polly heaters from the source as well.... and I bought that same switch too! |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Tuesday, October 05, 2010 - 10:43 pm: |
|
I bought my first set from DaveS. S Sadly, I had to buy the last set at Dennis Kirk. I needed other stuff from them anyway, so I was going to be paying shipping regardless. I'm running a digital thermostat, so I don't have or need a switch. Or rather, I have a 115 position switch that is being changed for me automatically. |
Rarebird
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 12:06 am: |
|
The set I'm replacing were purchased from Dave S as well, and I know he's moved on. Guess I'll go Polly direct this time. Thanks all! -mike |
Motorfish
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 02:40 pm: |
|
Reepi, did you get the digital stat from Dennis Kirk? Got any picts of it, mounting location? Thanks |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 03:20 pm: |
|
I built one from scratch, a lot more advanced then anything else on the market. I probably spent hundreds of hours on the design and prototypes. The design is mature, and for sale if somebody wants to buy and make it. Meanwhile, I can slap some together for fun, but it takes some time to fabricate the PC boards and solder up the components. Not a huge deal for a few one off's, but not something I can scale in my garage. I'm thinking of ordering a big batch of boards, and ordering the parts (the two biggest PITA bits) and selling kits. It's easy to solder them up. I was also thinking about open sourcing the hardware design (so perhaps others can do the boards) and just selling the programmed microcontrollers. Since it is automatic, it all mounts under the flyscreen (except for an LED on a stalk, that pops up between the dash and flyscreen, and acts as a very smart idiot light for voltage problems. |
Motorfish
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 04:05 pm: |
|
Reepi, I think I talked to you about this before. I would be interested in a kit. I looked into using a PWM, but couldn`t find one with a remotely mounted pot. Your totally automatic controller would eliminate any switch/control, which would be all the better. I just installed a custom dynamics voltage LED, Fatty`s post, so I wouldn`t need the idiot light, but I guess two wouln`t hurt. Could the led you use be installed in the speedo/tach panel, like the custom dynamics one? I don`t have a problem with soldering. thanks |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 04:51 pm: |
|
Yes, the fatty mod was in the back of my mind when I set up the single LED volt monitor. I just have an LED on a stalk that sticks up from above the gauge cluster... the 60 second install option. Someday I'll take the dash apart and put it in there... I've purposely avoided looking at how the signal dynamics unit works. I'm not trying to steal their design, I designed mine from scratch. That being said, there aren't that many ways to communicate voltage problems with a single LED, so I wouldn't be surprised if there is a bit of convergent evolution happening. I'll try and get an order together in the next week or so and get another batch of parts from Newark, and get some boards fabricated, and sell them as kits. |
Motorfish
| Posted on Wednesday, October 06, 2010 - 10:56 pm: |
|
Great, I`ll be watching for it. I have not had the time to install my Polly Heaters, so this is one case where procrastination pays off! |
Cycletlh
| Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 01:35 pm: |
|
Ordered mine from DaveS also but got the snowmobile version. It has a plastic switch. Got a two way metal switch and mounted inside the handguard. Works excellent. |
Pontlee77
| Posted on Sunday, October 17, 2010 - 06:41 pm: |
|
I went with the heaters from polaris, quite cheap, easy to install, and work great for me, as they go just under the grips the cable work is way easy so no need to drill the handle bar. |
Marksm
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 03:10 pm: |
|
Reepi, is there a post showing your setup. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 03:56 pm: |
|
Anybody have a good line on low scale printed circuit board fabrication? Like 100 pieces or so? That's the big thing holding me up. I can make them in the garage, but it takes a lot of time and it is a hassle. I didn't post schematics, as I was hoping to sell the design (it was a lot of work, but also a lot of fun). You would have to get all the parts anyway, though I made sure you can get them all direct from Newark. Pain to order in a quantity of 1 though. If I could get the PCB's made for $5 or so, I could buy the parts from Newark in bulk, repackage them, program the PIC's, and sell them mostly as kits (easy for me to scale up) with a "waiting list" for built systems... |
Buewulf
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 06:28 pm: |
|
Pontlee77, Do you have a link to those Polaris heaters? |
Marksm
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 06:44 pm: |
|
These the ones? http://www.purepolaris.com/Detail.aspx?ItemID=2875 344%28PolarisPGACatalog%29 |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 07:06 pm: |
|
Bill, check out this site... http://e-teknet.com/PCB%20Promotion.htm Brad |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, October 21, 2010 - 08:30 pm: |
|
Uh, yeah, thats exactly what I wanted! Thanks Brad! Maybe kits will be coming soon after all... |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 11:56 am: |
|
Bill, put me a the front of the line! I was going to pull the trigger on a set of Heat Demons but the Polly's are MUCH cheaper. Brad |
Motorfish
| Posted on Saturday, October 23, 2010 - 09:55 pm: |
|
|
Pontlee77
| Posted on Sunday, October 24, 2010 - 02:33 am: |
|
yes those are more or less the ones i got, there is some where a post whit a great guide to install them, cable work is dead easy, and on the left han grip there is space to route them trough with a little grinding of plastic, the right grip will need a bit of cutting and leaving a bit of cable free, but not a problem it can hardly be seen. |
Sprintex
| Posted on Monday, October 25, 2010 - 09:38 am: |
|
If you go with the polly heaters make sure you get the ones for a motorcycle and not snowmobile. I got the snowmobile ones, you cook wrap bacon around the grips and cook it. I put a resister in line and now they are almost OK. |
Norcalxb
| Posted on Friday, October 29, 2010 - 09:05 pm: |
|
Hey all - I'm Dave and I'm new to the forum I'm going to be installing Polly Heaters on my 07 XB12X and my buddys 90 Honda Transalp and in talking to the folks at Polly Heaters, found out that there no longer is a difference in heat output between the Hi/Lo Polly Heaters for Snowmobiles and Motorcycles. I was told that they previously made the PH400 M/C ones so that they ran a little cooler than the PH200 units but that they have stopped doing that. The main thing this means is if you plan to use a different switch like the Symtec round rocker or a variable controller, you can save some $ by ordering the PH200 kit. I ordered my PH200's from Powersportsuperstore.com for $31.41 shipped per set which was the best price I found online. Reepicheep - I might be interested in your Digital Thermostat Controller. How exactly does it work as in turning power on/off - adjusting heat level to the grip heaters? (Message edited by norcalxb on October 29, 2010) |
Norcalxb
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 12:43 pm: |
|
Just so you all know, Powersports Superstore wont be getting any more of my money. It may seem trivial to some but I hold others to the same standard as myself and don't tolerate being lied to and basically being accused of lying. Ordered my Polly Heaters as they had them for a good price even with the excessive $9.84 they were quoting for "SuperSaver" shipping. I asked at the time what method my order would ship via and was told USPS Priority Mail by Jason. So today, I get my shipping confirmation and tracking email from them and it says shipped by Priority Mail. I enter the tracking # on the USPS website and WTF - it says shipped by 1st Class Mail . So, I call them up and who answers the phone but my buddy Jason who proceeds to lie and say he never said my order was going to ship via Priority Mail. I explained that their shipping confirmation email stated it had been shipped Priority and Jason said that was a mistake. I called BS and said at the least, if they cared whether or not I would be returning as a customer, that they should offer me a discount on a future order. Jason got pissy and said they don't give discounts for reasons they were not at fault for. Real class act there, Jason (Message edited by norcalxb on November 05, 2010) |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 01:43 pm: |
|
I think I am going to redesign it. It used to work via what is effectively a "ballistics table". It measured ambient temps, and set a duty cycle for the heat accordingly. This was the right first approach to take, as it is insanely durable and hassle free. Install it, and ignore it for the next decade (no switches or anything), and it just works. And it actually works fairly well that way, but of course it's a little too cool when you are going faster or it is wet. And it's a little warm if you are crawling through traffic. So I think I will make it closed loop, and move the sensor up near the heating element, and just set a target temperature. for it to hold. That will make for substantially simpler code as well, so that will give me a few more bytes I might be able to so something else clever with. The only down side is plumbing, I now need a wire and sensor to go up near the heating element. One more thing to route, and one more thing to break. I've been distracted getting my project bike running though. Maybe something will be ready by spring. |
Prior
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 02:42 pm: |
|
I ordered some stuff from Powersports Superstore and had the exact same issue. Paid $9.84 or whatever for super saver shipping and got my parts in an envelope with about $2.14 worth of postage on it, sent first class. Called them about that as well, said they incorporate handling in their shipping prices... Sorta crooked to me. (Message edited by awprior on November 05, 2010) |
Prior
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 02:49 pm: |
|
I have one of Reep's prototype controllers and love the thing- most of the time. Relatively easy to graft into the existing wiring on my Uly, love not having to switch the heaters off and on and the voltage indicator is really cool (and has actually showed a few times that I was under voltage). I have not yet found the exact sweet spot for in town cruising with winter gloves and highway cruising with summer gloves on- seem to make a tweak every few days and get closer though. I'll buy whatever he comes up with, and we've batted around some ideas for other modifications off of the same design that would be very cool as well. I'm just glad I have friends like Bill to dream this stuff up- I just do mechanical stuff... |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, November 05, 2010 - 03:00 pm: |
|
I'll stick to electroncs. They typically fail more cheaply and less dangerously. |
|