| Author | Message | ||
     Sdecp |
I have searched the forum for torque wrench types and ranges. All I can really find is that it is suggested to get an in-lb and ft-lb wrench. Can anyone elaborate? Snap-On seems to be the favorite but is this the best for the money? Should I buy a wrench for each drive size 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, and 3/4. What are the ranges that I should buy. Should they be electronic, dial, click, etc. I have only started doing maintenance on my own and have not gotten to any jobs that require torque wrenches; however, I know that day is coming and I am looking to stock up. Thanks | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
it really depends on what you wanna pay electronic would be the cats meow but a clicker will work great also, i personaly think that the bar style are not as accurate, buy a 3/8ths and a 1/2 imo. something with a 0-100 ft lbs for smaller and a 100+ for the bigger jobs, just use a reducer if you need to do a little 1/4" job. | ||
| Sdecp |
Thanks Blake! | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I have and use 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" click-type torque wrenches depending on the amount of torque required. The goal is to use the one that will be working as close as possible to the middle of its range for the best accuracy. I also have a set of old high-quality beam-type torque wrenches that I use to periodically check the accuracy of my click-type wrenches. The accuracy check is done by using a piece of hex stock (or cut off from an allen wrench) with two appropriately sized sockets so I can pull the wrenches against each other. The click-type wrench should click when the beam-type wrench shows the reading that was set on the click-type wrench. My 1/4" drive wrench gets the most use because small fasteners are easily over-tightened and stripped when just using "feel", especially in aluminum. A reducer can be used but that often results in using a larger wrench at the bottom of its scale where accuracy is not as good as it is in the middle of the scale. Lastly, pay attention to whether or not the torque specification is given for dry or oiled threads. Oil drastically reduces the amount of torque needed to reach desired tension. If an oiled bolt is tightened to a dry torque specification, stripped threads or a broken fastener often result. I would definitely recommend that you buy a 1/4" to handle the small and most numerous fasteners. (ie Buell specifies 12-17 inch-pounds for sprocket cover screws) 12 inch-pounds is 1 foot-pound and a 3/8" torque wrench just can't accurately measure such low torque values. Now for the good news: My click-type wrenches are cheap Harbor Freight wrenches that cost less than $20.00 each and, so far, they have checked out as being accurate using the accuracy checking method described above. | ||
| Jim2 |
Good info Dave. Let me add that using a click-type be careful to remember the bolts that have already been torqued to spec. If you apply the wrench to an already torqued bolt you will already be past the click and can strip the thread. I just finished up in the primary and lost track of my bolt pattern I was working on. I put the wrench on an already tightened bolt and as I applied pressure to the torque wrench I realized that I wasn't going to hear a click and stopped!!! I then loosened the bolt and then tightened back to the click. Anybody else do this? | ||
| Sloppy |
A torque wrench is probably the most important tool for a mechanic. A few notes on them: Buy the best you can afford - but buy a quality item. Economical choices are Craftsman, Husky, etc. Mid level - Blackhawk, Proto. High level - Matco, Snap On. For starting out I HIGHLY recommend Husky. Size - start with 1/2", then in order, get 3/8" and 1/4" as funds become available. Why? When you need a 1/2" drive, you unlikely have the strength / leverage to break the bolt - and you're not quite sure if you've put enough strain on the bolt to hold. And here's the catch - these are the bolts that can kill you if you don't get it right; axle nuts, brake mounts, engine sprockets, etc... The Buell has a left handed thread on it's engine - VERY FEW TORQUE WRENCHES ARE DESIGNED TO BE ACCURATE IN THE LEFT HANDED POSITION. It will be labelled as to whether or not it is accurate in both applications. Type: 1/2" Click type, 3/8" beam, 1/4" beam. You can use the 3/8" beam wrench to check the accuracy of the 1/2". Beams are nice as you can "creep up" to the point. Whereas in a click type you don't know how close you actually are. NEVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar. Go purchase a breaker bar (1/2") while you purchase the torque wrench so you won't be tempted. Great question, by the way. Shows that you are thinking! | ||
| Buellistic |
BUELLers: Interested in a copy of the "WISDOM of TORQUE'ing", e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net)so that "i" can get your e-mail address and it his yours ... | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
i forgot to add i have a calibrated wrist and hand for doing the up to twenty foot pound jobs. I like to think that at least! | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Just for confirmation, test your wrist against a torque wrench using the method I described above. Have a friend watch the torque wrench dial as you tell him how much torque you believe your "calibrated wrist" is applying. Have him write down your estimates next to the actual readings. Because Buell often specifies torque values in the lower ranges (ie 4 -13 inch pounds for brake hand lever pivot bolt)try several values from 4 inch pounds to 20 foot pounds. If you can accurately apply 4 inch pounds without a torque wrench, your wrist is far better calibrated than mine. | ||
| Sloppy |
The only problem with the "wrist" click method is that it doesn't account for the leverage. 5 pounds of force at 6" = 2.5 ft-lb. 5 pounds of force at 2' = 10 ft-lb. (edit: Thanks Kalali! Mea culpa...) In both cases, your hand only feels 5 lbs of force... I have yet to find someone who can CONSISTENTLY get the specified torque using the German "gud-n-tight" method. Not saying it can't be done, just haven't seen it ever done consistently... "give me a large enough lever and I can move the Earth..." --- Archimedes (Message edited by sloppy on March 24, 2010) | ||
| Kalali |
"5 pounds of force at 2' = 20 ft-lb" Wouldn't that be 10 ft-lb? | ||
| Sloppy |
Sorry, yes. I had 10 pounds in may head but typed 5. Sorry. I'll correct. | ||
| Cyclonemduece |
give me a break unless your uber anal alot of things need not be tourqed, and it was a joke i in no way feel like i have a calibrated wrist (accurately) just common sense that alot of us have on how tight is too tight. | ||
| Buellistic |
Who makes the wrist pointer gauge for the WRIST TORQUE application ??? Is this a high tech set up like the Dick Tracy walk'ie talk'ie watch ??? | ||
| Fahren |
On WebBikeWorld, there's an interesting article on different types of torque wrenches. http://www.webbikeworld.com/r3/torque-wrench/ | ||
| Buellistic |
Fahren: It is interesting, "BUT" it does not tell you much except you should use a TORQUE WRENCH for SAFETY as on your wheel axles ... It does not tell you that you are supposed to get the "CLICK TYPE" calerbrate'ed ever so often, like when you drop it ... It does not tell you that if yo have a hard to reach bolt that you can use a extension on the torque wrench as log as it is at 90 degrees to the torque wrench ... |
