| Author | Message | |||
     Bomber |
Thanks Peter . .. . . .I appreciate the help . . .. | |||
| Andrewb |
RT, I have 2 quarts of thick stuff sitting in the garage. 20/20 weight and something else escapes me at the minute. They're yours for shipping. Andrew andrewbell@snet.net | |||
| Road_Thing |
Andrew: Thanks, but I found some locally. In very dusty bottles! | |||
| Road_Thing |
Bomber: I was thinking of a smiley, but without all of its own teeth... r-t | |||
| Blake |
Wouldn't it make sense, especially for track use, to use a multi-vis fork oil? Something like a 5W30? Seems I read something about that recently, can't recall where. The fork oil can become heated during aggressive track use. And it seems like a multi-vis chosen to optimally counteract the effects of ambient temperature would be very beneficial. Where is Andy? | |||
| Blake |
Here's the Racetech custom setup for my Cyclone, they recommend 5W fork oil.
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| Torqd |
Blake...I did the same thing on the racetech site...a few days ago...I had to replace the seals...that 140mm oil level number or like the guy above at 130mm....what is that measurement. The service manual said to cover a certain part of the fork internals...never mentioned a level with a certain measurement....I am assuming a measurement from the top of the tube...thanks in advance. | |||
| Bomber |
Blake . . . multi-vis does make sense, but I don't remember reading about it before (which mean absolutely nothing, of course) . . .. . I remember folks painting their sliders (20 years ago) black to dissapate the heat better (I know, it likely didn't do much good) . . . . thanks for the data . . . . can't have too much . . . .I would assume that Racetech's oil choice was influanced by their valving, which I won't have . . . I likely stay stock (5wt) or go up a level (7.5wt) just to try | |||
| Josh |
...now if only RaceTech would call me back and say my forks had arrived... | |||
| Henrik |
Oil weight: I don't know about multi-wis, but I've heard that one reason to try and make a fork work with the thinnest oil possible, is because thicker (straight weight) fork oil will change viscosity more when heating up than a lower weight oil. Lots of heat generated with suspension movement. I think the changing viscosity of the multi might make it impossible to actually tune the suspension. Btw. I've never been that impressed with the detail of Race Tech info. It always seemed to me, that they just go with the "canned" answer without tweaking for the individual rider/use. Fork oil height: is measured from the top of the fork tube to the level of the oil with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed. After pouring in the fork oil, make sure to pump/burp the fork by compressing/extending the fork until all air bubbles has been expelled. Henrik | |||
| Torqd |
that is what I guessed...but the 140mm race tech suggested is way different from the factory levels...inches... thanks | |||
| Henrik |
Frank: 140 mm sounds about right. Can't remember exactly what I'm running in the S2, but it's around there. What is the factory recommended level? You probably know this, but the airspace basically just indicate an air-spring function: As the fork compresses, so does the air space above the oil. So with more air space the air-spring will be softer, less air = harder air-spring. Henrik | |||
| Bomber |
Nominal for a 2000 M2 is 4.25 inches, I think (I was in that part of the manual last night) with a range of 3.1something to 4.9something . . . | |||
| Henrik |
4.25" = 108 mm 1" = 25.4 mm Sounds a bit low to me, but I'm no expert. For comparison, I'm running 120 mm in the S2 forks. Henrik | |||
| Tavs |
I used 110mm in mine w/7.5wt oil. It is a firm ride, but with adjusting the compression, I've just about found a balance. Granted, I'm 265lbs, so I needed the extra compression. | |||
| Rick_A |
It was hard to believe...but after an adrenaline pumping moment my belt has been squeaking. It looks like a saved by the skin of my teeth violent powerslide/near highside put enough load on my bike to throw the rear wheel/sprocket alignment way off! | |||
| Jreichner |
I am going to be replacing my stock rear shock and I was wondering if anyone had any information about rear shocks on the market. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! | |||
| Buelliedan |
J, You only have 3 choices: 1. Stock showa shock 2. Penske 3. Works performance The Penske is awesome but pricy. The Works is almost as good but about $250 less. Expect to pay between $500-$850 depending on your choice. | |||
| Rick_A |
Or...you could have your stock shock reworked | |||
| Buelliedan |
Rick, I don't know anybody willing to rework the Showa closed can. Do you? | |||
| Bluzm2 |
Dan, Rick, All, Soeone mentioned this place over on Sac for rebuilding Buell shocks. Anyone know anything about them? Lindeman's Engineering 520 McGlincy #3, Campbell, CA, 408-371-6151. (San Francisco Bay Area) A while back Buell shock rebuilds were discussed, at that time I don't think anyone was doing them. Wonder if they can respring them also.... Brad | |||
| Buelliedan |
From what I know about Lindeman he does great work but don't expect to get it it back anytime soon. | |||
| Waveguides |
Good Afternoon, Forgive my lack of knowledge, but I have a question. I own a 1998 S3T. Had the initial recall done (swingarm etc.) and the shock was leaking. Had it replaced recently with a 93930YA shock (re-)recall shock. My question(s): Is this the correct shock? What are the specs for adjustment? (I asked for the adjustment document, and the printer at the local dealer printed gobbledygook - unreadable data off the dealers printer twice) Much Obliged in advance... Mark | |||
| Jim_Witt |
Mark, Scroll up to the "very top" of this section. The eye to eye measurement should be listed there for your S3T. -JW:>  | |||
| Johnc |
I removed my swingarm today to repack the bearings for the 16000 km service. I followed the manual until it got to the point where they suggest you lift the frame up to clear the swing arm pivot. I found it much easier to just remove the 4 bolts holding the swingarm mount block to the tranmission case. It seems to me this is alot simpler.   | |||
| Josh |
Showa shocks should be rebuildable, right? Anyone got a line on replacement seals now that mine are starting to leak? | |||
| Waveguides |
My earlier question regarding the shock for a 1998 S3T that was recently replaced with part # 93930YA is that per the eye to eye measurement above mine is an inch and change off the 15.2-15.5 range, and theres an inch of threads already showing backside of the locknut. Thats why I was curious about the part #.... Thanks for the reply Jim! Safe Riding, Mark | |||
| Blake |
Mark, See specifications at top of page and also the applicable service bulletin. You do have the correct shock according to Service Bulletin B-024B. Is your sag set properly? According to your statement above, it appears to be WAY off. Max preload (minimum sag) would have no threads visible past the locknut. Your shock is apparently set at near minimum preload (max sag). What is the shock-eye to shock-eye distance when you are not on the bike and the shock is completely unloaded (fully retracted)? You may need to lift the tail of the bike or push it so more of the weight is carried by the kick stand to unload the shock entirely. FYI, the two applicable service bulletins are available by clicking the appropriate links towards the top of this page. | |||
| Waveguides |
Thanks Blake! I was finally able to get a copy of the Installation/Adjustment paperwork from the dealer yesterday afternoon. The sag was my concern. I remember the ol' days (and have hardcopies of same) when Spiegel was a frequent enthusiastic visitor, preaching the sag mantra..... I am somewhat astonished that post installation, the dealer made NO effort to set up the shock (clueless) specifically for the rider. Just a component replacement, like some chrome thingy I guess... The recall hardware was a "kit", and the Kit #'s per the Instruction Sheet -J01561 are as follows: S1/S1W/M2/X1: Kit Part No. K1400.C (Shock Part No. K0431.9) S2/S2T/1999-2000 S3/S3T: Kit Part No. K1400.8 (Shock Part No. K0431.M) 1997-1998 S3/S3T: Kit Part No. K1400.E (Shock Part No. K0431.B) A hearty "much obliged" for supporting this phenomenal Buell resource! A noble endeavour 'fer sure.... Ride Safe! Mark | |||
| Rempss |
I have been searching the archives and cannot find a definite answer to a question on the front isolator. The service manual (1999 X1) states 73-78 ft lbs yet there is also a service bulletin out (B-018) that uses 60 ft lbs as the correct measurement. Anyone know for sure which is correct? Jeff |
Blake's Race Tech Spec Sheet for '97/'98 Cyclone