| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
I've ~15K miles on my X1. The fork seals are not leaking but a guy at the dealership (knows Tubers) test rode the bike and he said the front end "dives" a little too much (even with the compression setting on hard) and said the fork oil tends to loose its properties over time. Should I just wait until it leaks before attending to it or most folks change the oil after certain mileage? Thanks. | ||
| Buellinator |
The manual says to change it every 10,000 miles, I believe. | ||
| Skntpig |
You will probably notice a difference in the way it works. Front end dive can also be fixed with proper springs tuned for your weight. | ||
| Kalali |
The service guy said every 20K miles. He also quoted me 4 hours of labor plus parts. Given my riding style (mild, mostly on good roads). I think I'll just wait until it starts to leak....Or make it a winter project, whichever comes first. | ||
| Ducxl |
I do all of my sets of forks once a year now regardless of mileage. THe one time i trusted the Harley dealership with my X1 forks they SCREWED THEM UP   They air impacted the caps back on!! WTF! THis year i destroyed the caps getting them off! I'll NEVER trust a Harley dealer again.All they know is S&S Super E installations/Straight pipes and chrome! | ||
| Skntpig |
I would do the forks at a minimum of 10K miles. I do them in mine every 2 oil changes. You should smell burnt fork oil...Peeeeeuuuuuwwweeeh. New has no smell. | ||
| Skntpig |
The Factory Service Manual that your tech has never read specifies 10K. | ||
| Oldog |
Kalali check the KV I posted a tear down, I would change the oil its a 1 day project and does not require complete tear-down of the forks just removal from the bike, while you are in there pull the steering head and check and grease the bearings.. 3 bottles of type e and a set of head bearings, for parts basic outline of tasks. put bike on stands, jack up front wheel remove, dash, fly screen, head lamp assy, & shell remove lamp brackets [note positions] disconnect turn signals (note or tag wires) remove handlebars place towells on tank and lay these items (dash & bars) back on tank ( or remove tank as desired, I remove the tank ) pull the Master cylinder off of the bars you can lay it on the cool exhaust pipe in the bend remove brake caliper disconnect line clips from trees remove front wheel remove fender loosen upper pinch bolts loosen ( do not remove ) top caps on forks loosen pinch bolts (bottom) slide legs out of trees [pay attention to hoses and cable routing] place bottom of leg( axle end ) in a vice with soft jaws remove top caps, keepers, spacers, and springs. remove from vice and dump oil out continue to pump leg up and down( the inner rod part) , to work oil out of cartridge refill leg with fresh oil and work it till the action is consistant and smooth, fill is about 13 to 14 ozs, there is a critical fill level spec (a range) check this in the FSM or KV, when correct pull the fork tube up and install the spring, spacer & keeper install the cap set the leg aside and do the other. The Trees remove top tripple clamp ( big center bolt ) Note that the bottom tree will fall off now remove the trees from the frame, pick the top bearing from the head note arrangement wipe the race, any flaw that you can feel requires bearing replacement (discolored ok rust no good) repeat for bottom, your option clean top bearing out with brake clean and re-grease the bottom will be difficult to regrease as the bearing is pressed on the stem, bearings are replaced complete no mix and match, If you pull the bottom bearing notice the dust shield dont forget it on assembley post up if you find the bottom bearing bad, the race can be cut with a dremmel tool and split to remove it it can be pressed off too. the outer races can be dirven out of the frame with a punch and hammer and tapped in with a soft punch (brass) and hammer. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks Oldog for the instructions. Appreciate it. |
