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Mrwoodboat
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 03:13 pm: |
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Hi folks- well I bought the 98 S1 instead of the M2- love the look and the price was the same for either bike. Here is a shot of the bike from the side- other than the tensioner, exhaust hanger and rocker cover gaskets- anything I should do after those and fluids change? I wonder if there is a way to clean up that rear fender? Maybe put the tag under the brake light? Seems like it would clean up the looks to me but...what do I know- this is my 1st Buell.Also is there any significance to the blue frame?
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Randymoser
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 03:17 pm: |
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American Sportbike sells everything you need to clean up the tail. You can hacksaw the hugger -- I have one on my M2 -- but it looks raw. I think there's a PDF manual for the S1 still here somewhere. Have fun! Randy |
Spiderman
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 03:20 pm: |
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Hi folks- well I bought the 98 S1 instead of the M2- love the look and the price was the same for either bike. Here is a shot of the bike from the side- other than the tensioner, exhaust hanger and rocker cover gaskets- anything I should do after those and fluids change? ------- Make sure all the nuts and bolts are tight and the belt is loose. I wonder if there is a way to clean up that rear fender? Maybe put the tag under the brake light? -------- You can get a kit from Al at American Sport Bike but I would get a new inner fender and save the old one, Original fenders like that are rare so I would leave it unmolested ---------- Also is there any significance to the blue frame? ---------- Not really just an option Buell had, but the Orange and Blue was an awesome color and I am sure Court can step in with the numbers produced... |
Randymoser
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 03:27 pm: |
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Oh, and run the numbers to make sure all the recalls have been made. Someone had a link here somewhere, but you can call them into your HD dealer, I think. I agree with Spidy: Before you hack the fender post it to the classifieds section for trade. That's how I ended up with the one I have. R. |
Mrwoodboat
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 03:28 pm: |
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thanks- yeah anything I do will be to replace with upgrade and not mess with original stuff- figure that way I have all the original parts later if needed. I did down load the PDF manual and printed it- it is in a notebook now on the shelf in the shop within hands reach. |
Eshardball
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 04:40 pm: |
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If it doesn't have it, change over to stainless brake lines on both ends and get rid of the jingle rotor in front. Other than that, enjoy the hell out of it. You may want to consider redoing the seat with memory foam and gel as it was designed by the Marique de Sade. The seat comfort is the only place where the M2 is superior IMO |
Kalali
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 06:35 pm: |
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Did you "feel" a difference when you switched the rear brake line to SS? Mine is an X1 and already has SS line on the front. Thanks. |
2kx1
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 06:57 pm: |
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Make sure it has the updated exhaust mount. |
Mrwoodboat
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 08:59 pm: |
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THought about the SS brake lines as I put them on my cruiser and it feels so much better- was going to see about redoing seat- what am I looking for as far as replacing rotor? New caliper or is this an adaptation of later model hardware? |
Guell
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:08 pm: |
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Calipers work both ways, you can get a new rotor from americansportbike.com |
Randymoser
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 09:16 pm: |
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I picked up an X1 SS line on Ebay for around $10. I'm not sure if they came stock on that bike or not, but it fit. I had to rebuild the caliper shortly thereafter so I can't say how much it improved things. Usually SS lines are the first thing I change. Next is the Corbin seat. They don't make this anymore, so you should maybe talk to Sargent. It's never going to be a Goldwing Lots of people have issues with the stock rotor warping.It hasn't happened to me yet and I do a lot of mtn riding, where you would expect it, but I also engine brake a lot. The exhaust Y bracket is a must, but it's not a fool-proof thing. I ripped the tabs off my USED Vance & Hines in about 1k miles WITH the Y bracket. Watch that you put the correct fluids in the brakes. One is DOT 4 and one is DOT 5, I think. If you put the wrong fluids in, you'll disintegrate the seals in about five seconds. Don't ask how I know this! Randy |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Friday, July 17, 2009 - 11:09 pm: |
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John nice S1, enjoy. I would flush the front brakes, check the radial play in your front disc, up grade your clutch by removing the grenade plate, close inspection of your front engine isolator, upgrade the swing arm isolators, inspect the oil pump drive gear, inspect regulator to stator connector, run your belt loose and check the rear shock it is a know weak link. If this is your first Buell get the oil checking routine figured out, most of these can be found using a search in BadWeb. Then pack up and ride the Dragon. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on July 17, 2009) |
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