| Author | Message | ||
     Sanchez |
I just put some aux lights on my Uly and shortened the turn signals while I had it apart. I can't remember who first posted it here, but the turn signal stalk is in two pieces. If you move one piece inside the screen, they look much better. Here the one on the left is done:  The lights are a $15 set of Optronics Platinum Burners from Wal-Mart. Here's what I did: 1) Take stuff apart: Take off the flyscreen, seat, and airbox cover. Remove the headlight assembly and disconnect the headlight wiring harness. Unscrew the airbox base plate and lift it up past the velocity stack (makes it easier to route the power wire). 2) Run wires: I ran the fused power wire from the kit from the battery into the front. I fed it through some split wire loom to give it some heat/abrasion protection.  3) Install the relay. I bolted mine to the back of the instrument console. I grounded it to a screw on the left side of the picture.  I wanted my aux lights to come on with my highbeam, so I soldered a new wire to the high beam lead (white wire) on the headlight wiring harness. Here's the wiring diagram for the relay:  And here's the relay itself. I got it from Fry's:  4) Install the light mounting bar. Mine's a GME. You just remove the two screws holding the beak on and put the bar behind the beak. Bolt the lights to the bar. 5) Wire the lights. I grounded one to the same screw I used for the relay and grounded the other to the corresponding screw on the other side.  6) Make sure everything works as expected, then zip tie all your wiring bundles and put everything back together. The finished product:  | ||
| Cityxslicker |
Gotta love Wally World  | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
4) Install the light mounting bar. Mine's a GME. You just remove the two screws holding the beak on and put the bar behind the beak. Bolt the lights to the bar. Make sure you used some Loctite on those two screws. I was in a hurry and neglected to do so and nearly lost the light bar and PIAA 510's a few hundred miles after the initial install. A buddy who was riding in front of me pointed out that my light bar was not level. Upon closer inspection, one of the bolts had fallen out and the other had worked itself loose. Luckily, I had a bunch of zip-ties in my top-case as a stop-gap. Tipsy | ||
| Froggy |
I had my Ulytility bar last fall for Buelltoberfest and one of the screws holding it in fell off during an off road ride. M2nc came to the rescue after I got back to the cabin  | ||
| Sanchez |
Thanks for the heads up. Both bolts are now loctited. | ||
| Hooper |
Now all you need to do is replace that anemic horn! Is that the stock one? I heartily recommend something stronger, like a Stebel. | ||
| Mad_doctor |
Hey Sanchez, Great looking job, I did notice the 3M "scotchlocks" on your lighter. These are the blue wire connectors at the base of the Aux,power/Cig lighter. I refuse to use those connectors because they will eventually cut the wire, leaving you stranded in BFE. I have had this happen on 2 different vehicle I bought. Yes they will get an electrical connection quick, but usually not the best long term fix. Either solder the wires, or crimp (with a GOOD set of crimpers), but fill the butt splice with grease first, to stop any corrosion you may get from slogging through the boonies. The lights look like they work great! | ||
| Sanchez |
I wondered who'd be the first to mention those. That's how I wired my Zumo, and a few people commented on them then too. It's been a year and a half and at least 15k miles, though, and they haven't caused a problem. Worst case scenario, they'd leave me without an in-dash 12v plug, and that wouldn't really be a big deal anyway. | ||
| Sanchez |
> Is that the stock one? Yep, that's the stock horn. It is pretty weak. Which Stebel model fits under the flyscreen? | ||
| Hooper |
Oooh, there are a lot of strings you can search for the best horns for you, but there is one that just started... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/397551.html?1222056725 The Stebel most of us use is the Stebel Nautilus Compact. You might have more going on underneath the flyscreen, which could make it crowded for the Stebel, but if you can shift some wires around, push the horn in, and zip+tie it down tightly, you will LOVE it. Any loud horn (I like the Stebel because it has two loud tones, like a Ferrari...or a 100 foot yacht...and it turns heads) will help...it is all about being noticed. It is also a wakeup call to drivers who just do not use their EYES when driving. | ||
| Indianafirefighter1972 |
Where is a good place to look for a Stebel I was reading the other forum and looking for something other than a horn that sounds like the roadrunner (No flames, I still like the roadrunner and Wil E Coyote even at 36). If I could get the sound of one of our fire engine air horns that would fit on the bike I would, but I don't want a horn that is bigger than the bike. I am also looking for some decent Aux lights. Any advice would be appreciated. | ||
| Court |
I bought my Strebel and PIAA lights on Amazon, mounted both yesterday and learned a lot. The Strebel is LOUD. By the way, I have used (shhhhh) the same system that fire and police use on my bikes before. It is a 100W Motorola Mara-Trac (Syntor XX works as well) with the PA/Horn function. It has the fog horn/hailer, Welp and "machine gun" function. You are correct that it will move a Toyota from your path pronto. I still have the system sitting here and confess all the room on the Ulysses makes it tempting. | ||
| Red_chili |
Hey, I notice you are using the metal instrument housing as a ground. To be honest I don't recall if there is a ground strap from the housing to the frame (if there is it would make my point moot), but you are basically passing current through your steering head bearings if there isn't. Not that much current really, but probably not a good idea. Take a ground wire to the frame (steering head, behind the cluster, you will see the ground post there). | ||
| Hootis29 |
Get rid of those blue Scocthlock connectors! They are the work of the devil! (Message edited by hootis29 on September 25, 2008) | ||
| Jblausey |
Where do you get the light mounting bar? GME? | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Posted by GME (Gary) in another thread: Hey Guy's, I'll have some open time in the mill next week to get a run of them done, if you cant get me by PM or email you can always call me at the shop 714-630-1888 PT Thanks! Gary | ||
| Panhead_dan |
That GME bar is a nice piece. I installed mine yesterday but couldn't mount the lights to it because the John Deere lights I have been using are bottom mount. I need rear mount lights. I wanted the JD's because they are durable, easy to find replacements for and the variety of sealed beam bulbs I can get for them is staggering! (and cheap) I can get several intensities of aircraft landing lights, for example for between $15 and about $30. Not that I would (low bulb life) but spots, floods, driving, all different bulbs for like $5. There is a very good chance I will just go back to the JD dealership and get some of the same buckets with rear mounts. I am currently shopping alternatives. | ||
| Court |
>>>Make sure you used some Loctite on those two screws. I was in a hurry and neglected to do so and nearly lost the light bar and PIAA 510's a few hundred miles after the initial install. Thanks for the tip. Horn installed, lights and bar on the way. I may give you a shout for install advice. Court | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
Thanks for the tip. Horn installed, lights and bar on the way. I may give you a shout for install advice. Court, if you can wait till I return from my next trip, I'd be more than happy to ride out to SI and give you a hand with the installation. I like to use the 20 amp Matsushita relays that Eastern Beaver sells. I also like to use a good dual wall 3:1 adhesive shrink like this. Just let me know. I'll be off for two weeks when I get home. Tipsy |
