| Author |
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Sethbuchbinder
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 12:27 am: | 
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Even though Pit bull does not make a specific set up for their strapless transport stand for Buells. adapting a different one of their sets was a five minute job and the stand works flawlessly. I found a set of pins that were the closest to fitting the XB and drilled a new hole for the safety pin.
I transported 9 bikes in a 28 foot enclosed trailer from NJ to FL with 9 of the pit bull stands and 0 Straps!! not a single one. and none of the suspensions were compressed.
by far the best system I have tried during my 8 years selling and delivering motorcycles. Well worth the money.
ill have to get some pics of how i modded it to work for an XB. Once the receiver is installed in the truck or trailer, securing a bike to it takes less than 20 seconds.
Seth |
Preybird1
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 10, 2008 - 02:42 am: |
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I got set of factory buell tie downs used to ship the new 1125s in the crates of e-bay for $24.00. They are white with the buell horse logo every 8" they work well and i believe they are soft straps with no hooks on one end! |
Happy1
| | Posted on Thursday, December 11, 2008 - 05:20 pm: |
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i going to pick up my bike here at the end of the month......i,m going to use a 3/4 ton pickup. i'm a little worried about hauling it.....mostly getting it in and out, truck sets pretty high. i"ve never hauled a bike before and i really don't want to drop my brand new xb. not even sure what i'm asking here...but pointer would help i guess |
Duff24
| | Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2008 - 09:50 pm: |
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I like to use a milk crate or small toolbox to stand on when I'm pushing the bike up the ramp if the tailgate is higher. Just set it next to the ramp on the ground.
Like they said before, it's ten times easier if you can find a high piece of ground or curb to load from. I usually use the bike's own power instead of pushing it up into the back of my truck manually when I'm by myself. Just need a little brake/clutch/throttle control! |
Oldog
| | Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2008 - 10:34 pm: |
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On is easy off can be interesting,
Bennet could you have put one more strap on that s2? On a seriuos note does that truck have the "composite" bed floor?
any sag issues there? I have the 01 sport track. |
Sekalilgai
| | Posted on Saturday, December 13, 2008 - 11:01 pm: |
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I use camlocks, as preference. Specifically the brand ADRAN by Studebaker Mfg is well put together. I have had brand new 'Stanleys' from the local homebuilder store fracture at the buckle on first use. One other thing is the ADRANs that I have, have the soft strap built into one end making things even simpler.
+1 on canyon dancers if the lower triple is not accessible w/ a soft strap. When using canyon dancers with ratcheting straps, I've actually bent handlebars ... so be careful.
I used to trailer with just the front straps but now use one on the rear after hearing a tale of bike that rotated (about the front wheel) when the driver slammed on the brakes of the truck, flipping the bike. I keep the rear strap only slightly snug and anchored to the rear.
So far so good ... and we have our share of curves and potholed roads around here.
+1 on finding a raised bit of earth to help keep the ramp at a reasonable angle. Having someone help makes a world of difference too! Don't forget to check for the 'sticky' neutral, it'll just add to the chore!
Here's my Uly on our way home the day I got her...
Linkies
ADRAN camlock version
http://www.starkmx.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Scre en=PROD&Product_Code=45266002782&Category_Code=OST D&Product_Count=2
Ratcheting flavor
http://www.whitehorsepress.com/product_info.php?cP ath=216_255_1_15&products_id=3131
Wanna see an exhaustive approach (good tips tho) from the BMW folk? Here it is
www.ascycles.com/pdf/Tiedown2.pdf
(Message edited by sekalilgai on December 14, 2008) |
Jerry_haughton
| | Posted on Sunday, December 14, 2008 - 06:58 am: |
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when being hauled in a pickup bed or trailer the bike wants to move primarily in three planes: forward, backward, and side to side.
ALL of these planes should be addressed when determining your tie-down strategy.
i use six cam buckle-type straps and a Canyon Dancer, very successfully.
i do NOT like to cinch my forks down tight. all you folks who do that, why do you? if it's to keep the forks from turning, that's the beauty of the Canyon Dancer - it does this with no stress to any componentry.
the Canyon Dancer does NOT need to be tightened to the point of risk of bending bars. it is there simply to keep the forks from turning, and as a secondary means to help prevent side-to-side lean when you corner.
this issue - preventing side-to-side lean - is VERY important, and your strapping method should address this. the Canyon Dancer is a great first step, but, as stated above, its primary job is to keep the forks from turning.
so, six straps:
-- two running from your front tie-down points up to the Canyon Dancer, tight enough so there's no slack, but no need to be any tighter;
-- two running from the rear of the m/c frame somewhere, forward to the same tie-down points the front straps are attached to. this takes the load generated when you accelerate, the load that's trying to eject your bike out the back of the truck or trailer, eliminating this task from the front tie-downs, and negating one of the reasons you might otherwise be forced to cinch your forks down tight;
-- and two straps attached to the rear of the frame - UP AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE - to the rear tie-down points in your haul vehicle. these straps take *most* of the side-to-side load when you corner, taking virtually 100% of this chore away from the front tie-downs.
let's talk more about those side-to-side loads. when you corner your bike is trying to pivot on the tire's contact patches. that's an INCREDIBLE amount of leverage being applied to your tie-down system when you're, say, taking a cloverleaf on-ramp at speed, or during a sudden evasive maneuver.
i want all the help i can get in combating this side-to-side load, and i do not and will not rely solely on my front pair of straps to address this.
the beauty of these last two straps is not only does it prevent having to compress your forks to keep them from turning, it also eliminates the side-to-side stresses on your fork assembly. these stresses are also present if you use a ride-in-type wheel chock/dock, if said dock is the sole means of fighting side-to-side loads during the haul.
these two straps would also prevent your bike from wanting to climb up front with you during a panic stop.
THESE TWO STRAPS SHOULD BE MOUNTED TO YOUR FRAME, AS HIGH AS POSSIBLE.
my cam-buckle tie downs are very high quality, and i opted for the kind with built-in soft straps - very handy and keeps metal (and/or rubber-coated metal) away from the bike.
i also have four additional soft straps. these are handy for *finding* places on the rear of the frame to tie to, especially places up high to secure the rear set of "side-to-side load" straps to.
any excess webbing gets neatly wrapped around the cam buckles and then the webbing and cam buckles get several wraps of neatly applied electrical tape around it all, to prevent ANY chance of a strap end coming loose and flailing about.
with the above method i've successfully hauled both a Yamaha FJR-1300 and H-D Road King (i.e. Very Heavy Motorcycles) over interstate distances with zero issues. the total distance hauled on the RK was well in excess of 2500 miles, and during this time the bike never moved - nor the did cam buckles loosen - not even a fraction of an inch.
because of my investment in the bikes in question, i also run a cable lock around a tie down point and around the bike frame, to help insure that the bike stays in the truck, say during an overnight motel stay, etc.
sorry for the book-length post. i'd show pix if i had any. hope this helps someone.
FB
(Message edited by jerry_haughton on December 14, 2008) |
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