| Author | Message | ||
     Ibbypop |
Can anyone provide any insight on this? I've found a 99-02 M2 header on Ebay but the seller has been unable to confirm if it will fit an X1 and I've been unable to confirm browsing BadWeB I know that it has a 2 1/2" collector.....anything else I should be on the lookout for? Part # is S0101.L and Ebay listing can be seen here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ewItem&item=390242373495&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK :MEWAX:IT#ht_1907wt_1165 | ||
| Fuzzz |
The M2 has a carb, the X1 has fuel injection, and therefore needs a 'bung' in the rear pipe for an 02 sensor, which the M2 pipe doesn't have... | ||
| Ibbypop |
Fuzzz - thanks for your prompt response. I was focusing more on the fitment and hadn't considered the o2 bung. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
So to sum up, fitment, yes, it will work. If it's the right price you can take it to a local shop and have a O2 bung welded on. | ||
| V74 |
my 99 M2 has a the oem header on it and has a bung screwed into it where the O2 sensor would fit on an X1,so i thought that they used the same header but bung for the M2 and unbunged for the X1 ??? M2 to X1 = unscrew bung screw in sensor,fit header, X1 to M2 = buy bung,unscrew sensor,fit bung,fit header, | ||
| Ratbuell |
The bung is the threaded hole. It takes either a sensor, or a plug. If you get it, take it AND your stock header to the shop that's doing the welding. That way they can measure and put the sensor bung in the correct place on the pipe. Yes, it matters where it goes. The computer is programmed for a certain location, which affects temperature and mixture composition. They have to drill and weld the bung in the right spot, or you'll have tuning issues. | ||
| Ratbuell |
But looking at the auction...it's a stock header. Same as your X1 header except for the color and the bung. Is yours damaged? Forgive me but I just don't see the point. Your X1 is a 2.5" pipe as well...all Thunderstorm motors had a 2.5" collector. The race pipes had the collector facing the rear of the bike and the primaries were tuned-length; those were the only differences. Stock to stock, though...the one you're asking about is the exact same thing as what's on your bike. | ||
| Ibbypop |
Thanks guys. Ratbuell, long story short, I had a surprise prior to delivering my bike to the new owner - a crack running nearly 6" inline with the length of the pipe from the rear cyl. - I'm assuming from a combination of bitter cold weather and an encounter with a wall stud while wiggling her into her parking spot in the garage. The new owner was very understanding, but I'm trying to make good by replacing it. Ended up going with a Blue ceramic coated header (also on Ebay) to ensure fitment and not create a hassle to retrofit. Thanks for the info and prompt response. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Aha. Gotcha. Are you installing, or is the new owner? A crack that large...is from improper installation/alignment, not from dinging a 2x4. Sorry. | ||
| Ibbypop |
New owner will be.....and responsibility accepted. I've been tooling around with new mufflers (even tried making my own, which could easily be the culprit here) and trying to work with a half blown-apart V&H SSR-2. Mount/dismount/mount/dismount of mufflers and not enough patience = stress on header. Strange - I thought my five year old had enabled me with unmatched patience! Lesson learned......the hard (and expensive) way. Thanks. | ||
| Ratbuell |
No problem, we've all been there  Easy method is, loosen EVERY bolt on the exhaust to finger tight or less. Then, put EVERY piece on the exhaust - header, muffler, hangar, brackets, all of it finger tight and in place. Rear cylinder head flange first, torque to spec while using your other hand to 'wiggle' the header. Then front head flange, with the wiggle again. Then, work your way along the exhaust flow and tighten/wiggle as you go, ending with the rear muffler hangar. |
