| Author | Message | ||
     Choppee |
Just got off the phone with my local stealer and the service mgr. said they're just reinstalling the oil tank and swingarm and putting the plastic back on the bike. Is changing the drive belt that complicated? I'm being charged book hours but apparently it's been a 6 hour+ project thus far with a few more hours to go. I think I'm going to go buy some tools... | ||
| Preybird1 |
The problem is they, The HD stealerships have what they call daily appointments they do before they fix your bike and the hd bikes will go first even if they are working on your bike at that moment. I call it brandism much like racism. harley's first! Just like at the HD museum when it opened they would not let the Buell riders in until all The fat and lazy HD riders went first! I would call another Hd dealer and get the flat rate book price from them to verify the prices. Don't let them rip you off! I learned my lesson when i was charged $12.50 to have the exhaust studs checked and re-torqued, And then they broke my tranny which ended up costing me $1,800. also get the list of parts they say you need and when you pick the bike up, Demand the old parts back even if they are junk, That way you can be assured you didn't pay for what you didn't need | ||
| Buellistic |
Choppee: If you do it by the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL you waste a lot of time ... The OIL TANK does not have to be removed !!! The SWING ARM does not have to be removed !!! If you want me to explain what you do by the numbers over the phone, feel free to call me(813)661-2664 EST ... You need to get the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and the PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL BUELL ... In BUELLing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on April 06, 2010) | ||
| Buellistic |
Preybird1 is absolutely "RIGHT" !!! | ||
| Oldog |
Choppee, I cant speak for 'Birds experience, but my 0.02$ 1. take time to call Lafayette 2. get a manual 3. get tools it can be agravating but its re-warding to do it for your self and it turns out good. the second time is easier. be careful on the isos theres a lot of bad info out there. | ||
| Guell |
Um, why not drop the swingarm and renew those rear iso's if your doing a rear belt. would be stupid not to. And yes it is a very time consuming job on a s1. It has no removable side plates. | ||
| Buellistic |
It you still have a OEM REAR FENDER/BELT GUARD(like a chain guard) it will be the only thing to remove except the ISOLATORS(Right ISOLATOR "ONLY" if just replacing DRIVE BELT, but you still need to compress the left ISOLATOR) ... "i" cut the fender off mine an left the belt guard ... "SO" we do not get too far off base, "i" have the FACTORY "ISOLATOR" TOOL and you must "IMPROVISE" a TOOL to compress the LEFT "ISOLATOR" so you will not "BREAK" the Factory Tool ... There are many ways to get the ISOLATORS off(Right ISOLATOR if just replacing DRIVE BELT), which are time consuming without the FACTORY TOOL(or aftermarket factory tool) .. | ||
| Roadrash |
Two belts in one week, went to chain drive lower gear 520. Redline 118, roll on wheelies at 90!!! | ||
| Eshardball |
What are you doing to go through 2 belts in the same week? | ||
| Buellistic |
DRIVE BELTS adjusted with 1/2 inch play on the tight spot will break them at $175.00 at pop ... | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
I've got an 01 M2 I just lost my drive belt on yesterday. I am wondering where to find the rear Isolator replacement tool other then the HD dealer. | ||
| Oldironsides |
Sstlouisjak, To answer your question yes there is a tool I saw it in the Mar tool flier from Mac and he wanted $69. BUT I just found it online. Go to Google and type (kas 445) that should do the trick fer ya. Hope thats what your wanting. Jon, Oldironsides | ||
| Kalali |
"Two belts in one week" You must be doing something wrong...I suspect you put them on too tight. | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Thank You Very Much Jon, Oldironsides. I will go look that up. Reading in the FSM I have a few other things I need to round up ,before I get started on this task. | ||
| Brinnutz |
sstlouisjak, Might as well replace the rear iso's while you're changing the belt! | ||
| Pkforbes87 |
Personally, I think it's easier to change the belt without using the removable side plates even if your bike has them (only S3's and X1's) I lift the rear of the bike by the footpegs, take all the weight off the isolators by lifting the rear of the engine a bit with a tow strap. Then just drop the swingarm and mounting block together. Replace isolators and put everything back together. Please remember to get the new belt where it needs to be before you reinstall the swingarm. You'll hate yourself if you reassemble everything and the belt is in the wrong spot. DAMHIK | ||
| Buellistic |
For an after market ISOLATOR SPECIAL TOOL, check with www.jimsusa.com and you will have to call them as "i" can not find it on their web site ... NO MATTER WHAT WAY YOU GET THE RIGHT ISOLATOR OUT, "YOU MUST COMPRESS THE LEFT ISOLATOR AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE TO KEEP FROM SPREADING(SPRINGING) THE FRAME TOO MUCH" !!! Have " REAR ISOLATORS HOW TOO INFO WITH OUT SPECIAL TOOL", e-mail me(Ljenne73c@verizon.net) and "INFO" is yours ... | ||
| Sstlouisjak |
Got her done... Thank You all for your help and advice... Special Thanks to Buellistic for his info on the rear isolator removal tool.. It worked great and was easy to put together.. Hope I dont need it again any time soon, but it will hold a special place in my tool kit.. | ||
| Spiderman |
Personally, I think it's easier to change the belt without using the removable side plates even if your bike has them (only S3's and X1's) It's the S2 and X1  And I do a similar procedure on my MJ I do not like any tool that bends the frame like the installation tool discussed previously |
