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Scdobber
Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 08:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm now running HD 20w50 Dino oil and the bike now has about 1400 miles on it,thought about switching to synthetic soon.I was thinking about Mobile 1 V-twin 20w50 oil.Any opinions on synthetic brands
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Daveswan
Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that one is very good. I use it in the engine and gearbox of my M2.
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Scdobber
Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 09:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks,called my local Autozone and they have it on the shelf,may give it a try
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Guell
Posted on Saturday, January 02, 2010 - 11:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Not saying dave is wrong, but some have reported stators going bad when using it in the gearbox. Its fine for the engine though.
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Scdobber
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way what oil filter are you using? My bike has a HD 6380580A oil filter and wanted to go with a Napa or Wix filter.I crossed the HD number on the Wix website and it states the correct filter is a 51215 as well as looked up my application and the Napa filter is PS1215.Everywhere I look on in the KV I'm seeing Napa 1394 / Wix 51394?
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have heard that various oils can contribute to alternator failure but I do not understand how this happens or which oils and gear lubes are toxic to the alternators.

Any advice/information would be much appreciated because I have been considering using synthetic hypoy gear lube or Mobil 1 V-Twin 20-50 in the transmission.
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Kalali
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 09:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do a search. This topic was covered in detail a while back. Something about certain additives...
I personally use Royal Purple 20-50 in the engine. Seems to run cooler in the summer.
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Fasted
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 09:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

some GEAR lubes cause problems....ENGINE oils do not.

knowledge vault, then draw your own conclusions.........
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Dave_02_1200
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did a search and some have stated that gear lubes contain an additive package that can attack copper in the stator coils.

However, which specific additives will have that effect was not clear so I can not be absolutely certain that they will not be present in Mobil 1 20-50. (I must assume they are the EP additives)

Regardless, I plan to go ahead with Mobil 1 V Twin 20-50 in motor, primary, and gearbox.
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Buellistic
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 06:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLers;

Lets cut the chase and the buellschitte on engine/tramsmission oils ...

It is your engine/tramsnission, so run what you feel is best ...

"BUT" IMHO Harley-Davidson oil is best for me ...

"i" can buy it from a H-D Dealer any where in the world ...

Have a 108,822.1 miles on my S3T as of the last ride ...

Ran H-D 20w50 DYNO oil for the first 60K changing every 2K ...

Pulled my cam cover off at 60K to check the oil pump drive gear which looked brand new, BUT "i" still up-dated oil pump drive gear to the PN 26391-06 gear ...

Started running SYN3 20w50 at 60k to date changing every 3K ...

Run same oil in engine and transmission because the motor sprocket oil seal goes bad in time and "i" do not want any thing being sucked into the engine except engine oil ...

And 20w50 oil works best with the hydraulic lifters ...

"MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!"
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Scdobber
Posted on Sunday, January 03, 2010 - 11:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So, did you see any improvements after changing over to synthetic at the 60K mark
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 12:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Two questions.
1) Can I run Royal Purple 20W50 in the transmission same as I do in the engine?

2) If the seal going bad allows transmission fluid into the engine does it also allow engine oil into the transmission? I've been getting a bit of spew from the transmission line that runs out the back fender. I've not been into the primary to check the fluid level or change it yet. The Harley tech that did my shock recall saw some puckage and said he believed it was probably from an over-filled primary. The thing I'm wondering is if it was in fact over-filled and it pukes enough shouldn't it eventually stop puking? I'm starting to think that my primary is filling up with engine oil slowly. I've added 1/3 quart engine oil every so often but continue to run it on the low side, always checking when fully warmed up of course.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Scdobber:

"i" did not do DYNO runs comparison of which if done would show little difference, "BUT" always remember "The Devil is in the Details" which means the SYNTHETIC oil would give an edge over a DYNO oiled engine both being tuned the same ...

The two reasons "i" run SYNTHETIC oil is that lubricates better on warm up and better when running engine hard which makes for a longer lasting engine which is what "i" am after ...

Jim2:

"YES" with a bad motor sprocket shaft oil seal the engine oil will get into the transmission, "BUT" this is not as bad as a non-engine oil going from the transmission into the engine ...

If you over fill the transmission it will puke it(it has to go some where) out the breather until it reaches the correct level ...

If you over fill the oil tank it will puke it out the head breathers and pressure leak(it also has to go some where) into the transmission until the engine is happy with the AIR SPACE in the oil tank ...

This shows its ugly head making you think your engine is using oil ...

Checking ENGINE/TRASNSON OIL 101 available upon request, just e-mail me and the "INFO" is yours ...

"MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!"
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Jim2
Posted on Monday, January 04, 2010 - 11:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Buellistic. I have to add about 1/3 quart of oil every 700 miles. I think that the only oil drips that I have are puke related.

If my primary does have x-mission fluid and the seal is bad and the x-mission fluid is getting into the engine oil what are the effects? What do I look for?

Also does anybody know if I can run Royal Purple 20W50 in the transmission?
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Devil_car
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 02:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jim, if your seal is leaking you can diagnose it by checking the fluid level in the transmission. After verifying that it is at the correct level, check it again at a predetermined interval to see if the level has increased. If the level has increased, then engine oil is leaking past the seal.
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Scdobber
Posted on Tuesday, January 05, 2010 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here is a interesting article or at least I found it interesting on dino vs synthetic as well as automotive oils vs motorcycle oil oils along with flashpoints and HTHS numbers on some popular brand oils http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/ mc_oil.html

(Message edited by scdobber on January 05, 2010)
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Mick
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 01:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

"GL5" tranny oils contain sulphur that corrodes the stator wire coating.

Mobil 1 V Twin 20 w 50 is fine in tranny and engine.
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Scdobber
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 07:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Any idea what the by-pass valve rating and flow rating is on the HD oil filters?I may go with a Wix filter on my next change
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Buellistic
Posted on Wednesday, January 06, 2010 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BUELLers:

If there is enough crap in the oil filter to where it is plugged up it will not make any difference what the relief valve pressure is because you engine is done ...

Been running Wal-Mart filters since 1997 and have a 108,822.1 miles on my S3T as of the last ride ...

"MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!!"
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