| Author | Message | ||
     Cobraman |
Bike is a 2000 X1. ok, I glanced through the knowledge vault, but I didn't see a thread providing information on how to change the brake pads. I have the FSM. It says to remove the pin and leaf springs, slide the old pads out, slide the new pads in, reinstall the leaf springs, reinstall the pin, and you are done. Is it really this simple? I read where you guys compress the pistons and do some cleaning when you are replacing the pads. When do you clean stuff and how do you do it without taking the caliper off the bike and taking the caliper apart? For that matter how do you compress the cylinders with no pad installed or the caliper off the bike? Also, I want to change the brake fluid (since I am in the brake servicing mode). I have read a few threads on here explaining the bleeding process, but they all seem to be related to a dry system (i.e. after a caliper rebuild). If I keep the master cylinder topped off as I pump the brake (to force the fluid out of the bleeder bolt), I should not run into any problems with air in the system, right? I have a bottle of the harley dot 4 fluid to put in. But I also have a bottle of valvoline dot 3/4 synthetic fluid. From what I hear, if the system requires dot 4 you have to use dot 4. Is it ok to use this dot 3/4 synthetic stuff? I read the thread that said dot 3 and 4 have the same glycol base and dot 5 is a completely different monster. Thanks for the help. | ||
| Eshardball |
You will want to remove the caliper from the front end and use the lever to extend the pistons for cleaning with a shoelace and brakeclean, Put a piece of wood between the two sets of pistons so that you don't pump them out of the caliper. This cleaning keeps them from sticking and having your brake drag and warp your rotor. You must not use DOT 5 fluid in a DOT 4 system. DOT 5 is silicone and will cause problems with the rubber components in your DOT 4 system. There is a fluid called DOT5.1 that has a pretty high wet boiling point but it is still Glycol based. DOT 4 should be fine for any street riding that you will do. I run the Motorex DOT 5.1 but the benefit from the increase in boiling point is probably negligable. After you have put the caliper back on with the new pads, put a tube on the bleeder into a container with some brake fluid and pump fresh fluid through the system until you see it coming out of the tube. If you clean the pistons at each pad change and replace your fluid annually you will avoid most brake problems. | ||
| Skntpig |
I would use Simple Green vs. Brakeclean. Both will work but the brakeclean is hard on the rubber seals at the pistons. Like above a shoelace works and I also use a toothbrush. No need to take the caliper apart. To get the pistons back in use both pads on one side(so you don't damage the pad surface) and push with a pry bar or C-clamp. Do a little on each side until they are all the way in. Dot 3 or 4 is fine. Just make sure it calls for Dot 4. Some buells from some years use Dot 5, just not sure what years. | ||
| Cobraman |
I would assume use the same process on the rear caliper as well? | ||
| Akbuell |
Yeah, same on the rear. I would use DOT4, brake fluid is not expensive. And when I change fluid, I empty the master cyl w/a turkey baster or similar, then just fill and pump the new fluid through the system. Takes a little time, but saves the hassle of air bubbles. | ||
| Kalali |
It is that easy...If I could do it, you can too.... |
