| Author | Message | ||
     Shapem2 |
Looking to remove the cam case cover - Rocker covers are off but do I need to go further to relieve tension? Which bolts need to be loosened? should they be removed? 1,2,3,4? Service manual should be delivered any day!! Thanks  | ||
| Buellistic |
Shapen2: "i" do the rear cylinder first, then the front cylinder as the cam are set up on the FRONT CYLINDER(cam timing marks) ... Bring the cylinder up on TDC(Top Dead Center) to remove the tension on the valve springs ... Remove the 7/16" bolts and two ALLEN SCREWS... Then you back off bolts 1,2,3,and 4(1/2" bolts) a 1/4 turn at a time until loose ... Then do the other cylinder, then and only then can you remove the cam cover ... "i" remove the cam cover screws starting in the center in a winding pattern as you would torque the head on a car engine and put it back on the way "i" took it off ... "SORRY". this is not in the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL, wonder why ??? Hope you have a FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL and PARTS BOOK for your YEAR/MODEL ... NOW WOULD BE A GOOD TIME TO UP-DATE TO XB ROCKER ARM COVERS ??? MAY THE LONG LASTING BUELL BE WITH YOU !!! | ||
| Shapem2 |
Buellistic- Great advice - worked like a charm to relieve all the pressure - Now I have all the cam case bolts off but the cover will not budge. Timing cup is removed. Any tricks to getting this off besides beating it with a rubber mallet for an hour or so (i tried that). I'd like to give it another go before I order a cam cover puller. | ||
| Jim2 |
Make sure that you removed the timing sensor plate and the timing rotor or the cam cover will not come off. etch two marks somewhere on the perimeter of the timing sensor plate before you remove so that you can put it back in the same place without re-timing. Then tap around the cover with a rubber mallet. | ||
| Jim2 |
I didn't read very good. "Timing cup is removed". Sorry about that.  | ||
| Shapem2 |
Got the cam case off and discovered the reason why it was so tough to remove..looks like roller failed, sprayed the case with little metal pins and caused major damage to case...dented cams...lost teeth...time for a new bike    | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Holy cow! There was a X1 motor for sale out here a week or so ago, want me to check it out for you? How many miles on the bike? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
http://www.ksl.com/index.php?nid=218&ad=7100874&ca t=144&lpid= No relation to this fellow but he's relisted the thing four times in the last two weeks so it looks like he really wants to sell it. Sheesh, still can't get over those pics of your cam case! | ||
| Brinnutz |
$1900? That's way too much...I've seen 'em go for $1300-1500 from our bikes. | ||
| Shapem2 |
I have more pics I should post, the amount of metal sitting in that case was unbelievable. I assume due to the case damage around busted up roller this is not repairable. Right? The rest of the case appears fine but the two holes (cam and roller) are in bad shape. Still can't believe how dented the cam is. | ||
| Hugie03flhr |
Shapem2, if you fix it, make sure you magnaflux for cracks before you put any money into it. Man, that is bad!!! are the lifters stock or aftermarket? | ||
| Jim2 |
My condolences  | ||
| Shapem2 |
2000 M2 all Stock lifters cams rods, etc - 26k miles | ||
| Bad_karma |
Time to consider an 88" finances allowing of course. Anyway you look at it you need to clean that whole motor. Joe | ||
| Ratbuell |
I agree - check for cracks. I *believe* a competent machinist can rework the cam area, maybe go oversized and put in a bushing like on the outer case. I don't see much damage around the lifter/roller hole...the notch on the outside is factory, to clear the cam gear. All the lifter does is slide up and down...the machinist could ream out the hole, make sure it's round, and that would be good to go. +100 on disassemble and clean EVERYthing. Those bits went through the oil pump; you'll probably find little pieces as far away as the cylinder heads. Best to get ALL of 'em out before you try to fire it up again. Another option is a spare: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9-09-1999-BUELL-M2- Cyclone-engine-motor-trans_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkp armsZ65Q3a10Q7c66Q3a3Q7c39Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a1 00QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem5ad1ed5708Q QitemZ390069049096QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAcces sories | ||
| Jim2 |
I'm wondering what might have caused this to happen. Do roller bearings just decide to let go like that? You may be able to find a new half case. Maybe you can order one new? Someone was just selling an already cut down cam cover too, it might still be available. Anyone who's upgraded the cams may still have the originals to sell cheap. I would think you can restore that engine cheaper than replacing. | ||
| Shapem2 |
I may as well give it a shot, right? If I could get a used set of stock cams a used lifter and crank gear - I may be in business, too many unknowns to sink a bunch of money in brand new parts but worth a try to get me to the winter...anyone have an old set of stock cams lying around and an old lifter they want to unload? I'll try the classifieds too. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Can the torn up lip for the drive cam (rear intake) be repaired? It almost looks like the bushing was torn out of there. Maybe be okay to press a new bushing in? Let us know how it goes. |
