| Author | Message | ||
     Kalali |
Well, got the Forcewinder installed on my '00 X1, went for a short ride (~10 miles), all was well. Decided to go for a longer ride (~25 miles) and on my way back (after a two hour break) the bike stalled at a red light when I began to move. It fires right up and idles fine but dies as soon as I put it in gear, release the clutch and start moving. Sometimes it dies right away as soon as I give it a little gas and release the clutch and sometimes I can ride it for a few hundred yards before it dies. I did remove the IAT which I had routed to next to the ECM plug (having heard issues related to the Forcewinder and IAT location) but no change. Had to get the thing towed home. ECMSPY showed no codes (except for the IAT) and nothing out of ordinary. Tested the clutch safety switch and it appears to be working properly. Neutral light also shows up as it should. The side stand switch was bypassed since I got the bike. In fact, I can start the bike on the side stand and not even touch the clutch. What else should I check for? Sorry about the long post. Just wanted to make sure I am describing the condition the best I could. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Brinnutz |
I can start the bike without touching the clutch too with a sidestand switch not bypassed, as long as it's in neutral... It prevents you from taking off in gear with sidestand down, so are you sure it's bypassed? | ||
| Tdman77 |
"are you sure it's bypassed?" Disconnect the wires and jumper them together. Also check the Bank Angle sensor. I am wondering why you threw an IAT code. Did you disconnect the IAT while the bike was running? You could have a chaffed wire in the IAT and when you rerouted the IAT it broke. | ||
| Smoke |
jump the clutch safety switch with a paper clip to get home and then troubleshoot. tim | ||
| Sloppy |
The clutch switch can easily crack and get corrosion in it. Bypass the clutch switch TEMPORARILY to confirm if this is your problem. If so, open the switch, clean the contacts and put on a light coat of dielectric crease. Put a light coating of silicone on the switch contacts to minimize moisture intrusion and you're set. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks folks for the input. Tom, I expected the IAT code since I disconnected it temporarily to see if that would help since the only "change" I made was installing the Forcewinder. Sounds like I need to further investigate the clutch safety and side stand switches. As for BAS, would it be adequate if I just disable it via ECMSPY? If not, could someone tell me where is the BAS located? Thanks again for all your help. Needless to say, the bike is totally unreliable until I get to the root cause. | ||
| Tdman77 |
I have never tried but have seen the option in ECM Spy to disable the BAS. Here is the page out of my FSM.  | ||
| Easy_rider |
I wish I could give credit to the Badwebber that I read it from first and phrase it as eloquently, but whatever you modified last is the most likely source of the problem. Check your wiring around the FW, and check it again. | ||
| Blake |
BAS (tip sensor) would prevent the engine from starting/running at all, even with transmission in neutral. Odds favor the sidestand or clutch sensor. | ||
| Kalali |
Thanks guys. Heading out to the garage to start the probe. The thing that had got me puzzled was that the first time it died I rode it for a good few miles and the subsequent times got worse and worse until it would just die as son as I would put it in gear and begin releasing the clutch. Appeared to have some sort of progression, albeit very quick. It has got to do with the two (or three) sensors. | ||
| Olbolt |
How about your electrical plugs / connectors, fuse holders, etc..I had interesting sensor related problems on my S3, and it was recommended on BadWeb to clean & dielectric grease them. Some were very hard to get apart, probably never apart since new, and on some I found light powdery dust (corrosion byproduct?) Some of mine required some displacement of OEM items & some of the stuff I added for access to the plugs. I also checked out the individual wire routings with a multimeter...and found nothing unusual. Went thru ~ 1/2 tube of dielectric grease, and a long afternoon. Bottom line, all the electrical issues vanished & never returned! Recently I had the fairing exterior off my '98 Roadglide looking for rattles, and dielectric greased the connectors...and 3 specific gremlins went away...this stuff works! | ||
| Scarecrow |
If the wiring for the IAT winds too close to the engine or other hot part (not so close as to melt anything) could this cause a problem with the IAT readings? I was also wondering about the connector on the back side of the IAT itself. It's a two prong female onto the two prong male on the IAT. This connector fits both rightside up and upside down. Mine came apart while I was putting the Forcewinder on and I wasn't sure if it made a difference which way it went back on. I haven't had any problems but I would like to know for sure which way it goes. Anyone know? | ||
| Blake |
FYI, there's this excellent "troubleshooting" section in the Knowledge Vault.  | ||
| Kalali |
Well, after fiddling/testing the clutch and side stand switches, I went ahead and did the "paper clip" trick with the clutch switch connector wire and looks like the issue went away. Before the "fix", I managed to isolate the failure mode: 1) key on, gear neutral, hear pump, four second engine light. 2) Push down into first and pull back into neutral, the fuel pump comes back on along with the red engine light for four seconds. The jumper in the clutch wire essentially eliminated the second part. Does this make sense to you folks or should I continue looking for the root cause? P.S. Sorry for not posting this in the Troubleshooting section. | ||
| Tdman77 |
Have you tried to ride it with the jumper in place? Just wondering if you have a chaffed wire that could cause this since you problem seems to come with movement of the bike. | ||
| Kalali |
I've ridden it locally for a few miles with the jumper with no problems, I am still a little paranoid about taking it on longer trips until I am convinced it is fixed. I will have to do a thorough trace of the wires but want to ride at the same time...So may be when we have two rainy days in a row. | ||
| Tdman77 |
I think you just need to get a second bike. That way you can have one down for a rebuild and another to ride.  I just sold my Duce and am already missing having 2 bikes. Maybe once I finish school, I'll get me an S3T to park next to the X1. | ||
| Kalali |
Tom, a friend of mine suggested the same thing in front of my wife and it took a couple of weeks before he was allowed to have dinner at our house again!!! LOL |
