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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through October 06, 2007 » 2002 X1 suspension issue - feeling every bump in the road « Previous Next »

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Moniker
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I first bought the bike at 1500 miles, the suspension was tight. When I hit bumps, I barely felt them. My compression and dampers in the front and rear were set to factory recommended settings and the preload measured eye to eye at 16 inches.

Now, at 5800 miles I am feeling ever bump in the road. It doesn't feel like I am bottoming out, but it doesn't feel "right".

Any suggestions as to what this could be?
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Cyclonecharlie
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 11:06 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You might want to have your steering head bearings checked for tightness.Does it feel like it's in the front or rear or both? You could have something loose on either end..........Charlie
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Djkaplan
Posted on Monday, October 01, 2007 - 01:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Check the front isolator. When it goes bad, the road feels 'different'.
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Warlizard
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 03:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you weigh over 160 the factory sag preset will need to be changed. The nut on the shock needs to be turned to move it towards rear. Figure all the way out is about a 200# rider and where it is now is about 160. Dial it in to your weight if you split the diff its for about 180. Made a world of diff on mine. I also firmed up the front and rear w/ the adjustment screws.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 10:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your symptoms sound like a bad isolator.
Here is something that a Buell tech tried on mine when my rears went bad:
Grab the rear of the bike and lift.
Mine vibrated less until I hit a bump : )
The front is harder to tell.

When mine went, they didn't look bad until they were out in my hands.

They only barely delaminated from the steel backing plate.
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Warlizard
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 11:21 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I doubt it is the rear isolators as the 02's had the good beefy ones. I can't see them going bad at 6K.
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 12:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Time has an effect on these parts as well as miles and weather..

Good news rear isos are not hard to change
I posted data on the front iso change in the KV

BTW wheelies may be detrimental to the health of the front iso..
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Chasespeed
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 12:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW wheelies may be detrimental to the health of the front iso..

That, and steering neck bearings

Chase}
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Littlebuggles
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 10:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The stock shock, even the upgraded remote reservoir have a tendency to go bad. Since they are under the bike we don't get a lot of oil puddling anywhere.

Your bike is five years old so iso's may be wearing but you have the new ones as warlizard has said, so they should last.

Both stock shocks I had provided a very rough ride once the seals were gone and all/most the oil blown out.

Maybe just clean the shock and look for oil after your next ride, you might could even tie a cleanish rag around the back end of the shock before your ride, then check it when you're done...

Or you could raise the bike via frame and unbolt the back end of the shock and see if it leaks oil then, that's how I learned my first one was bad.

If it is your shock, new ones from the dealer are about seven bills, ASb sells the Penske and Works, starting around $850 or so. Aftershocks will rebuild/revalve for right around $250 (sure glad I had mine done). Not too many others that will work on our shocks. Or maybe get a used but intact one here or on the -bay.

-Mike
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Oldog
Posted on Tuesday, October 02, 2007 - 11:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

new ones from the dealer are about seven bills,

OUCH!!!!!!
are they that high now?

Mike contact info for after shocks?}
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Bad_karma
Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got a works from American Sport Bike and am very happy with it's performance, now for the longevity test.
Joe
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Warlizard
Posted on Wednesday, October 03, 2007 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If I were replacing a shock I w/ go with the Penske. I still suggest adjusting the suspension front and rear. For me factory presets were inadequate. I would set up bike properly b4 buying anything.
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