| Author | Message | ||
     Art_vandelay |
Can anyone recommend spark plug replacements for a 2000 X1. I'd rather go to my local Auto Zone to pick them up instead of hiking it out to my non-local Buell dealership. Thanks | ||
| Aaomy |
Buell 27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs) NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended) NGK DPR8EA-9 medium NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12) DCPR same except socket size the # are cut and pasted form the top of the knowledge vault, i hope these help,, i would recommend staying with the 10r12 or 10r12 equivalent plug.. | ||
| Easy_rider |
What's the gap? I went by the book, but is was about .020 different than what the previous owner had on his. There's always been a question in my mind of whether or not he knew something I didn't. | ||
| Aaomy |
s2 specks call for a gap of .038-.043,, thats what ive always run.. even now with the xb heads. i think gap has more to do with you ignition system then bike.. mag set ups always had to run about .020 just because you didnt want to burn up your points and they didnt generate the voltage of the coil systems. their gaps were around .025-.030 for a coil points system. now that they use electronic ignitions, coils are now much higher voltage and thus capable of throwing a hotter spark over a larger gap.. kinda a quick laymens terms way of putting it.. hope this helps.. | ||
| Bomber |
follow the book -- the previous owner was having a bad day, or didn't check the plug outa the box (same thing, really) Aaomy's got it aright -- today's solid-state ignitions carry a heck of a lot more gap than mags or points/coils did, which has led to easier starting, better gas milage, and all round better performance the best, imperical, way to test the plug gap is to keep increasing it til it won't fire so good anymore at high revs, then back down til it does -- this is painful, wasteful, and the setting arrived at imperically will only last til the plug electrodes start to erode (which they will in fairly short order), and then you'll have to narrow the gap again (sparks jup from sharp corners more easily than rounded ones) . . . . or, of course, you could follow the book, sayin? | ||
| Chasespeed |
Art, you can get teh DPRs are you local import shop, thats where I buy mine, they cross to the same plug as alot of other bikers... Incidently, I am running the 9EA-9s..... I am running the race ecm, American Sport Bike custom air cleaner, and D&D. Chase | ||
| Djkaplan |
the best, imperical, way to test the plug gap is to keep increasing it til it won't fire so good anymore at high revs, then back down til it does... Heh, heh! I remember doing this between rounds of bracket racing to see how far I could take the plug gaps with a modified HEI ignition on a smallblock Chevy. I got as far as .075 until the ET's stopped improving and the misfiring started. Those were the fastest plug changes I ever did on my Camaro - it usually took me an hour on a cold engine. I changed the plugs on a hot engine 3 times that day, and you are right, it was painful! | ||
| Art_vandelay |
Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. Thanks for the info. |
