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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » 2006 Ulysses-56,000+ miles knocking « Previous Next »

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Camp762
Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2022 - 06:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Greetings bad-folks!

I've just got the Ulysses back on the road this summer after 3+yrs of sitting with busted front header studs...A guy up the road cut my header and replaced the studs then welded the header back for the fix!

Super stoked, I then proceeded to rebuild the forks, replaced new steering bearings, new belt, new O2 sensor, new spark plugs, new muffler actuator, new intake seals, cleaned the injectors, fresh TPS reset, fresh primary fluid and adjustment, synthetic 20w-50, new led headlights, new rear tire and more, just about the whole nine yards.

The bike ran great for the last couple months, until this week when I started getting a little noise from the engine. I attributed the noise to the synthetic, since it's been super hot here in TN, and I figured a fresh oil change with conventional oil might help make things a little quieter. Yesterday the noise got louder on the way home so took the back roads to keep revs low. I dumped the synthetic and went with Dino oil with Lucas oil stabilizer and fingers crossed but to no avail. The sound is a knocking in the lower half of the engine.

From what I've read, maybe it's a rod pin or rod bearing possibly?? The engine has numerous fittings that weep, the rear cylinder has a slight weep at the base, as well as a more substantial one at the head gasket, but never leaked enough to leave a drip, or need to add oil. Maybe oil starvation could be what lead to my trouble, or maybe just regular failure of a weak pin?? It is now being parked until I can get this worked out. The Ulysses is my backup to my daily drive old Kawasaki Concours, looks like I'm riding the mule again, no more Buell😥.

Any ideas on how I should tackle this on with a limited budget, I imagine I'm either into an engine swap or rebuild? Any possible leads?

Thanks much,
Keith


Engine knock video:
\newurlhttps://youtu.be/QCeWuXv7RmE}

(Message edited by Camp762 on July 30, 2022)
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, July 30, 2022 - 08:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

https://youtu.be/QCeWuXv7RmE

Sounds like you’ve analyzed/surmised reasonably about the noise. Might be worth checking the primary chain tension though.

Switching to inferior oil not good! Stay with the synthetic. It holds viscosity at temperature WAY better than conventional oil, which begins to cook and rapidly break down at temperatures that don’t even phase synthetic oil.
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Tpehak
Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2022 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds more like broken muffler valve spring (internal or external) and loose muffler valve. Considering you damaged your exhaust and repaired it, plus installed the new actuator, probably did not adjust it properly, maybe forgot to install or lost the anti rattling spring for the valve shaft, plus it sat for long time and rusted, this is the most probable issue.

Take the tank cover off, detach the muffler valve cable from the actuator, start the engine, pull the cable by pliers and listen to if it changes the knocking sound.

(Message edited by TPEHAK on September 14, 2022)
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96s2t
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2022 - 11:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The engine runs quieter with regular 20/50 non synthetic oil.
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Dammechanic
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2022 - 03:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Probably be a good time to check your oil pump drive gear and make sure it’s not worn out.
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