| Author | Message | ||
     Cyclonerider |
OK, my speedo, dash lights and blinkers went out on the way home. Haven't checked the fuses yet, but I am going to in the morning. Why would they all go out all of a sudden? No hard bumps, and it was working on the ride in to work, and after I started on my way home. Steve | ||
| Cyclonerider |
Ok, it was the fuse, but now when I turn the bike off, the odometer resets it self. I remember someone having a problem similar to this. A link to that site or some info will be very much appreciated. Steve | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Cyclone, My guess is a pinched wire. Check your wiring harness and open wires for pinching or wear spots. If I remember correctly, the odo resets when you remove power from one of the loads. Something is still not right after replacing the fuse. Something made it overload and pop, they don't usually head south for no reason. Look closely for wear marks on any exposed wires. Brad | ||
| Cyclonerider |
Ha, found it, after only about 5 min's of looking. My horn wires were both rubbing on the motor where they come out of the harness, and the horn was pushed back about 1 inch and was rubbing the connector on the bracket that it's mounted on. ODO stayed where it was when I turn the bike back on. I was thinking because when I hit the horn on the way home, I didn't hear anthing, and next thing I know, I have no lights,speedo,blinkers. Steve | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Steve, Good catch! Nice that it was an "easy" one to find and fix. Those are my favorite kind! Brad | ||
| Justin5492 |
I bought a set of Lockhart Phillips turn signals for my bike. they worked at first, now they don't. anyone know why this is? is it because the flasher deal is only 20 watts and the bulbs on it are 23 watts? now i'm blowing fuses, and the old ones don't work, think the fluxuator is bad. can anyone help, thanks alot. Justin | ||
| Pilk |
HELP! This d%$* check engine light is on my last nerve. still the same problem as described earlier. Ideas, Anyone, Anyone? Pilk | ||
| Revfry |
I was on the way back from lunch on my '00 M2, taking a freeway exit ramp, when I noticed my tach needle was flipping all over the place. Then I realized that my engine had started missing and my speedo started jumping around. As I dropped my rpms pulling up to the light everything seemed to settle and ran just fine. But as I pull away from the light and got around 3 grand it started freaking out again.. the tach needle spinning around and off the scale and I began missing again. As long at I kept it around or below 2500 I was okay. I'm hoping this is just a loose wire. Going to go check it out after work. Anyone seen this before? Have ideas? Is it perhaps indicative of more than just loose wires (Bad ecm) or anything? Thanks Rev '00 M2 | ||
| Tripper |
Your negative battery lead has cracked and the rubber is holding it on the terminal loosely. | ||
| Revfry |
Tripper, Went down there and wiggled both leads pretty good while the bike was running. I wasn't able to reproduce the symptoms. =/ Next? Rev '00 M2 | ||
| Tripper |
There's a poor/intermittent ground somewhere. I would take things off, emery board surfaces you can reach and reattach. | ||
| Javahed |
Hey! Has anyone done any successful mods to their headlight setup? I've been looking at puting two or even three Piaa lights in place of the one bog one -- but have no idea how to get started. Before I try mod-ing by trial and error, does anyone have any experience doing this? I've replaced the brake light with an ultra bright LED strip and new "cool" blinkers all around. The headlight is what's bugging me now. Thanks a bunch in advance! Dan | ||
| Fastback69 |
My bike has consumed it's last speedo pickup sensor. I'm going to try the RFI/reverse current filter. Now, where were those instructions? | ||
| Holligandave |
I have a 2001 X1 and the "Wait to start" light has been lighting up in first gear when I turn the key on. It should only do this in neutral or in a gear with the clutch pulled in. The fuel pump will also activate to pressure the system. Somehow the system is being fooled to think the clutch is pulled in or in neutral. If it was a netural sensor off, the neutral light should light up in first...but doesn't. Any one else with a EFI had this problem?? Ideas??? | ||
| Pilk |
Holligandave, Clutch switch maybe? | ||
| Blake |
Holligan Dave: Why do you say that the "Wait to Start" light should not display when the bike is in first gear? My understanding is that it should ALWAYS display until the electronics are fully booted-up, self checked, and running, no matter what gear you are in or anything else short of a dead/disconnected battery. The same applies to the fuel pump. After all, you can start you bike when it is in gear as long as the clutch is in, right? Are you confusing being able to start the bike with the "wait to start" indicator? (having the bike in gear and the clutch engaged should disable the ignition/starter) Blake (not sure, but pretty sure  ) | ||
| Robr |
Rev, I had the same problem on my Sportster, with missing and the tach going crazy. It turned out to be a faulty STOP/RUN switch. This circuit runs from the ignition switch to the STOP/RUN switch to the ignition coil. Robr. | ||
| Holligandave |
Blake...Your right about "in gear and the clutch engaged" should disable the starter. The "wait to start" and all the stuff that goes along with it should also be disabled when in gear, untill the clutch is disengaged! At least that's the way is was out of the box. Now all I have to do is leave it in gear (clutch engaged), turn the key to "On", the light comes on, system boots up, light then goes off, ready for start. Never used to do this. | ||
| Blake |
Just doesn't make sense to me. Every FI automobile I've seen fires up the electrics and fuel pump as soon as the key is turned on no matter what gear or what condition the clutch (engaged/disengaged). What does you owner's manual say about the normal operation of the "wait to start" light? | ||
| Hogluvr |
Any help would be greatly appreciated. After 6 trouble-free months, the 'ol girl finally let me down. I pulled my S1 into a gas station this morning on the way to work. When I was ready to leave, I hit the button, but all the starter wants to do is spin. It doesn't sound like it's engaging. I had to push her 2 1/2 miles to safety. (I guess it could've been worse, I'm now riding the Ultra...900 lbs. vs. 400 lbs. hmmm... Any of you knowledgable sorts have any ideas on a fix?? Thanks Mike | ||
| Aaron |
As I understand the starter, for the motor to get power, the solenoid has to kick in. If the solenoid is kicking in but not engaging, it would seem that it has to be a starter clutch/drive gear problem. You could pull the little cover off the end of the solenoid and watch what happens, but I suspect you'll just see the solenoid plunger pulling in and completing the connection for the motor. If that's the case, pop the primary cover and watch it. You'll have to pull the cover to get the starter out anyway. If it is the starter clutch/drive gear assembly, it's not hard to change. They seem to be a real problem on S1's (small battery probably involved), but when mine failed it did it gradually, giving me lots of audible warning ahead of time. Best of luck, AW | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks, Aaron, I appreciate the input. It's kinda weird, it went with NO warning whatsoever. To make matters worse, I'm having starter troubles with my Lowrider too!! This one DID give me a warning, though. It just started clicking at first, and now you can feel the solenoid kick in, but it won't turn the engine, & won't release until you let off the button. I'm not sure that the solenoid is even engaging on the S1, it sounds like maybe the plunger isn't kicking in at all, it is just spinning. Like I said, kinda weird, the bike has been flawless up until now. Guess I'll try to get her home after work (she's sitting at my Mom's house right now, wasn't up to pushing the extra 5 miles to get her to my house ), & break out the tools!! Thanks again Mike P.S. If anyone ever asks me again why I need three bikes, I think I've got an answer for them!! (If the Ultra breaks down on the way home I think I'm gonna cry) | ||
| Jmartz |
Seems like starter problems are in the air. A '96 S1 I have been working on with a fresh battery (just installed a Blast kit in it) will only click as if low in power. If powered by my car's battery the starter will turn the motor slowly amidst clicks of the solenoid. The jumper cables get hot. Bike was running fine when is was removed from service 18 months ago. Maybe the commutator rusted (how could its brass?) Jose | ||
| Buellzebub |
Jose check your grounds. had a similar prob on my s1, thought it was the battery [same symtoms] but it was a loose chassis ground. sure was glad i didn't have to spend $300 cdn for a battery kit | ||
| Justin5492 |
Ok, fellas, I am still having problems with my new turn signals. I found that the one set had a short so i took them back. I put the originals back on the rear of the bike, but the front still has the lockhart Phillips set. After purchasing a new turn signal actuater and some fuses, everything was working fine for about 300 miles. Then I noticed that when I put the left side on, they were flashing real fast, but the right was and is still working fine. Then i noticed that the front left was not working, but the left rear was working, but blinking real fast. I love the looks of the new signals, but am i missing something here? The wires are hooked up right. Is there something to do with the load? the wattage of the bulbs? Help me here fellas!!!!!!! The weather should be nice the weeekend, so i have a few days to wait for you vast knowledge and inciteful ideas. Justin | ||
| Sportyeric |
Hogluvr. When I first converted my 883 to a 1200, I thought it would help the (smaller) starter if I were to tap the starter button, let a bit of compression bleed off, then give it a spin to start. Worked good for a while. The problem: hitting the starter the second time, everything was tightly compressed so it was an instant shock on the starter drive. The result: the geared ring on the outside of the clutch basket, which is simply a friction fit onto the basket, broke loose. The symptoms: starter spins nice and quick, motor doesn't. The solution: clutch basket out, grind three 1" grooves along the mating edge, weld the suckers together, and grind smooth. Hope your problem is easier than that, but I'd think watching the action with the primary cover off would be the place to start no matter what. Good luck. | ||
| Sportyeric |
Revfry. I read somewhere that a major weakness of the stock Sportster tach is that it is wired in a fashion that if the tach fails, the engine dies. I've never taken the time to figure out why, I just have a quick connect on the wiring in case of ignition failure, I can start by eliminating the tach. | ||
| Hogluvr |
Sportyeric: Thanks for the input, yeah, she came home in the back of my truck last night, I'll pull the primary cover off this weekend & see what's going on in there. I just wish they would've put that primary drain somewhere else so I wouldn't have to take the muffler off to take the primary off. It's just weird that there were no warning signs, no hint of trouble until yesterday. Mike | ||
| Reepicheep |
I pulled and replaced my primary cover without pulling the stock muffler. It's annoying, but if you are patient you can get the drain plug back in by wedging your fingers in there and wiggling things around. Or, since you know you will be pulling the primary cover and replacing the fluid anyway, just put some aluminum foil over the muffler and remove the primary cover slowly without ever touching the drain plug... the fluid will pour out as you remove the primary bolts and wiggle the cover. I did that the second time I pulled the primary cover (messed up the gasket first time) and it was not TOOO much of a mess. And I would be REALLY inclined to look for marginal grounds before pulling the primary cover given the problems you are describing.... especially given the sudden nature of your failure. Though if you have not already you should get in there to replace the primary chain tensioner anyway. Bill | ||
| Hogluvr |
Thanks, Bill I was thinking about just pulling the primary & just letting the fluid fly, too. I'm running a V&H can, & the drain plug is REAL close, I don't think I have enough room to get it out w/o pulling the muffler. I will double-check grounds before digging in, although both Aaron & the service manual pointed to the same thing, given the nature of the symptoms. Mike BTW, what's up with the primary chain tensioner? |
