| Author | Message | ||
     Simond |
Ditto Bluzm2. I have covers on S2 and X1. Different hole spacing (and colour). I would definitely want to replace with the same or similar in the event of a spill. | ||
| Sandblast |
O.K. everyone, I read most of this thread and learned alot but still want to simplify it a little... I need a 1. Cheap 2. easy to install replacement for my 2001 m2's breadbox. I dont want to re-jet, I dont want to have to change alot, just the air box. I have not had the m2 very long (coming off a Blast) and I dont need a performance increase just yet. I learned to change the jets on my Blast and had a lot of fun with tuning it but right now I just want to enjoy my stock M2. I usually am pretty Utilitarian and would not change something just for looks but this stock air box ruins the lines on my new girl- someone please help!!!  | ||
| Blake |
None of the quality options are cheap. Some industrious types have fashioned a round car type filter intake for under $100. Should be photos of one in the archive here. | ||
| Bomber |
S&S knock-offs are available for less than a bill (Dennis Kirk), but almost anything you do will require re-jetting (heck, leaving it stock requires re-jetting) all in all, removal of the airbox and carb, rejetting, and installation of the carb and new aircleaner will take you a pleasant afternoon | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Sand, What Bomber said. The stock jetting on the M2's should (must really) be changed. They run on the lean side from the factory. Rejetting really cleans up the throttle response and cleans up the "Keihn Cough". A 45 pilot with the adjust screw set to 2-2 1/2 turns and 190 main is a good starting point. The M2 carb is pretty much the same as the Blast version with the addition of an accelerator pump. Real easy to work on. Jets are less than $10, very much worth the time and small effort involved. Brad | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Sand....yep, what those guys said. I'd adjust the jets on the carb even w/o changing the air cleaner. You can pick up a used S&S style aircleaner for under $40 on ebay. New will be in the $100 range. The jets are cheap. Neither will have a major impact on the performance as it relates to power. The re-jetting is a good idea no matter what other tweaks you make. These bikes come lean from the factory (expect mine, which was running a 205 with 3 1/2 turns  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Sand... rejet. Do it. You won't regret it. Note that your main is probably fine, when I cracked my 2000 M2 open, it was already a 205 as well, already on the rich side. The low speed definately needed fixed though. It is a really easy and cheap job. Do it do it do it do it. Just drop in a low speed jet and adjust the air speed mix. About the only really dangerous thing you could screw up would be to not seat the intake seals completely (just big rubber tubes). edited by reepicheep on March 12, 2004 | ||
| Aesquire |
Sand, what they said! I kept the stock airbox, modded w/venturi ring. I'm still waiting for the Kuryakyn model on the cover of their catalog. (due last spring...lol ) The biggest issue if performance is not the main goal is knee clearance. From small round, to ham can, first sit on the bike & eyeball knee spacing. Rejetting will vastly improve start up, warm up & ride. You probably don't need to touch the main jet, but my '01 M2 now needs choke for FAR less time, and I can begin reducing choke seconds after start. Set idle to 1050-1100 rpm, and ignore hog owners that want you to turn it down to 600 rpm. ( because it sounds more like a big twin ) You want 700+rpm to keep the oil pressure up, and Buells are SUPPOSED to sound like a sportster on Ritalin. | ||
| Sandblast |
Thanks every one for your help. Okay Okay I'll re-jet. What I will do is wait a little longer, save some cash, get whatever intake I decide on and do it all in an afternoon like Bomber said. No sense in half a**ing it. Thanks again... | ||
| 2002m2 |
Will the re-jet and putting a pro series air cleaner void the warranty?The manual says it will and some say it will and some say that it wont.?????????? Also, is it harmful to the engine to run with the high flow air cleaner for just a few months without re-jetting it? | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Jamie....first this disclaimer: Don't hold me to it because I don't work for the a dealer. Now for my take on "aftermarket" parts and warranties. I believe that if the part is purchase and installed by an authorized Buell dealer, it does not void your warranty. As for running any aftermarket part without the proper set-up, I wouldn't do it. If you're adding a new intake, exhaust, etc.; I'd make sure I have the proper fuel flow. Increasing your air flow by either intake or exhaust will cause the bike to run lean. That's bad no matter how little time you run in that situation. It's especially bad because most Buells are already lean from the factory. Enough rambling. | ||
| 2002m2 |
Just wondering what the part number for a K@N air filter for the stock breadbox on a 02 M2 is? The web site only lists up to year 2000 and I wanted to make sure if there is a change from this to newer years? | ||
| Drwend1 |
I would like some feedback on the following set- up for my 2002 M2. I am having a Wileyco SS can installed (cheap and a lifetime warranty!), the carb re-jetted, and am putting a K&N filter in the stock airbox. Does this seem like a good plan? Would I be better off performance and drivability wise with a force, hypercharger or pro-series air box? If so what are your recommendations for this set-up? Thanks | ||
| Josh_ |
If you do the K&N in the air box, make sure to cut some holes in the filer "clamp" and replace the "tube" with a $.95 Sportster venturi ring. search on here for "gutted air box" | ||
| 2002m2 |
I bought a Pro-series air cleaner off of ebay and wondered what do you do about the exstention off the motor mount that connected to the old bread box? I dont want to take it off to put another aftermarket one on,but it might look funny with that sharp piece sticking out beside the air cleaner.Can it be cut shorter without taking the mount off? | ||
| Ara |
Rather than cutting holes in the air filter "clamp", I replaced the thing with a piece of 3/32 in aircraft aluminum. Now the whole circumference of the air filter can breathe. | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello all, Thank you all for your "jetting" help (see earlier posts in carb, fuel injection, and fuel delivery). This past weekend, I made the following mods to my CV carb: 45 slow, 190 main, idle mixture out 2.5 turns, no shims. I took it around the block today to test it out (without the air cleaner) and the throttle responded well, and no coughing. One question though. When I would rev the throttle a light mist would emit from the carb . I don't know the name of the part it was emitting from but it's the fat needle lookin' thing that jumps up when you turn the throttle (vacuum slide???). Is this normal? Thanks! | ||
| Tim |
You are seeing the accelerator pump in action. | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello, I own a 98 s3. Has anyone with an s&s style air cleaner had problems with the backplate hitting the frame when mounting it? I went to mount the plate last night and it is right up against the frame. Should I pull the carb out slightly for some extra room or get some shims to back the plate off the frame? I haven't called s&s yet, but I probably will. thanks! | ||
| Italialaw |
Ignore above post. I figured out that you need to use the OEM backplate! | ||
| Country |
Ok I was searching on line for a new air filter for my Forcewinder. I wanted to know the exact specs of the filter so I could go get a K&N filter. (one of the orange ones  ) While I was lookin around I saw a couple of different models. On the force website I found three different models for the carbureted buells and then another at the bottom of the page for the fuel injected. Now my bike is definately carbureted and not fuel injected. BUT the model that is on my bike looks exactly like the fuel injected model. Could this be the cause of my oil leak problem? Or does it not really matter. I am not exactly what one would call "mechanically inclined" but I do know somethings about mechanical systems. Please help because I keep experiencing oil leakage. That I think could be avoided. Thank you all in advance. | ||
| Country |
wow with all the brainpower here I would have thought that someone would have answered this in the past 4 days. That's ok though because I have talked to Donn and he said that I have nothing to worry about. Just need to seal those leaks. | ||
| Cerbero |
my turn... anyone know if the jetting for a ham can will also work for a forcewinder? i'm sure it's been discussed, but my search didn't yield this specific information. thanks ...c | ||
| Sjh |
Will the stock air cleaner set-up from a 1998 sportster work on my 97 S1? I am looking for a temp setup for the stock air box. If so will I have to modify anything or re-jet? | ||
| Bomber |
Cerbero it'll be damn close, if not spot on, or at least it was on my M2 with a wileyco can and stock header | ||
| Sandblast |
Hey everyone. I saved some cash and got what I wanted- The Hypercharger. I put in a 45 slow jet, (it was a 42) and left the main alone because it was a 195 already. I rode down to orange county and pulled my plugs, they look really good to me. Note that I did not drill the plug and change the screw settings. That is just a fine tuner for the slow jet right? (basically). Anyway Thanks to the crew at American Sport Bike for the parts and advice. | ||
| Lake_bueller |
Mikuni Questions: Issue #1: I seem to have developed an intake leak after my S1W rebuild. The Mikuni carb was previously mounted on the same motor without any issues. I've taken things apart but the problem isn't solved. Is it possible for the gasket to become loose enough to create a poor seal? Can you get replacement parts for a Mikuni carb? Issue #2: I have about 1" or more of play in my throttle. I've adjusted the cables as far as allowed on the throttle unit. It has been a serious issue but it annoys the he!! out of me. Is there a good solution? Thanks!!! Dennis | ||
| Bomber |
lake which gasket? and, one of the great tthings about mikunis are that everything is replacable and purchasable . . . .. everything cable ... have you got the right one? an inch free play sounds weird as heck, and unsafe to bbot | ||
| Henrik |
Dennis; I'd get new seals for the whole intake - not a lot of $$ and good for peace of mind. Intake seals have been known not to last more than a couple of years. #2; so are both of your throttle cables (both push and pull cable) adjusted to full length?? I've found that I can play around with where the throttle barrel is in "resting" position, by loosening one and tightening the other?? Henrik | ||
| Lake_bueller |
It feels like I'm not getting a clean fit on the rubber boot that goes between the carb & intake manifold. I'll have to give it a closer look to make certain. As for the cables...they are the stock S1 cables. Would that fact that I'm running with Crossroads bars make a difference? I've completely reviewed the installation manual a number of times. I can't find anything that gives a hint or suggestion as to what may be causing the problems. It may be time for a rebuild. |
