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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Do It Yourself: Machine Shop, Garage, Tools and Tips » Archive through October 09, 2009 » X1 Starter Removal HELP!! « Previous Next »

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Cascott
Posted on Sunday, May 06, 2007 - 11:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How do you remove the starter? The manual says (after removing a bunch of stuff) to simply remove the starter from the gearcase side. I can't get the starter up and past the rear exhaust stud. What is the trick?
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Mikej
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2007 - 12:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I haven't had to remove a tube frame starter yet, but I know several people on the site here have.
You might try reposting this in the Engine section of the KnowledgeVault under a new posting.
This is one of those things that could go under the Electrical section as well.
Next you might try posting a link on the Quick Board leading back to this or a new posting, anything to drive the traffic over from the more active area. The Quick Board seems to have taken over as the first stopping place instead of the general discussion board where links to questions used to get a better response.

Apart from that, sometimes there is a "magic" orientation that you have to get the part into in order to get it to slip past whatever is keeping it from getting clear. Have you tried sneaking it out from the other side of the bike? Have you removed the gas tank and battery to get better access to it from the top?

No direct help here, but hopefully someone will come along complete with pictures showing how to get that starter out.
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Blake
Posted on Monday, May 07, 2007 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If the only impediment is an exhaust stud, I'd say remove the exhaust stud?
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 08:25 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake,
Do you have an easier way to remove a stud than the old double-nut trick using one nut snugged up tight to the other one effectively locking them to the stud threads, then turning the lower nut to hopefully remove the stud. I've had to slip a 6-point boxend wrench down first before snugging the nuts together on one particularly stubborn stud many years ago. Vice-Grips are your friend when you've got the room to use them, after that a nut-breaker comes into play to remove rounded nuts rounded off by an open-end wrench.

I'm only asking because I don't think there's a whole lot of room to mess around with the rear cylinder exhaust stud on a 'tuber. And I'd hate to hear about someone breaking off the stud while trying to remove it, at which point it's time for a Jim's tool to drill out the stud, which will require either removing the head or finding a 90° drill head and a short drillbit to get in there.
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Road_thing
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 11:43 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Last time I had the pipe off either one of my tubers, the exhaust studs were pretty loose--I could have backed them out with my fingers.

rt
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Blake
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 05:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mike, I did the double nut deal and had no problem removing them. I used loctite with the added nut and tightened it so that its flats matched up with those of the header nut. I may have used a small lockwasher or piece of wire wrapped around the stud as a spacer/shim to get the optimum matchup between the flats. I was able to use a 1/4" drive socket to remove the header studs.
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Mikej
Posted on Tuesday, May 08, 2007 - 06:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good deal, hopefully Carol above will have her starter problem sorted out in short order and be back to riding again very quickly.
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Dartanjang
Posted on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 03:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I did it last year I only had to remove the exhaust headers, the front pulley cover and the belt from the front pulley. After having disconnected the wiring and mounting bolts I managed to wiggle it out between the frame pipe and the pulley. It was tricky and I had to try for a while turning and twisting, but it was easier putting back in than to remove. I didn't have to remove any exhaust stud but maybe that would have been an easier approach.
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Secret
Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 09:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello....trying to get some feedback here. Mechanic got bike assurred me he'd gotten black ceramic Buell exhaust . Cool great yaddi ya then discovered the Jardine had been delivered instead, as I suspects Buells using these now. My dilemma is I saw the D&D black powder coated one advertises low torque higher HP. Other being black and not chrome any other advantages to this system?Will it be worth the wait and extra money?
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Jramsey
Posted on Wednesday, May 13, 2009 - 03:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Your question will get more response if you were to put it in the "Thumper"forum, its where the Blast owners hangout.
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