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Tym29
| Posted on Saturday, May 31, 2008 - 10:12 pm: |
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I bought a used xb12s with no documentation. I was hoping to find a post that gave general information on how to change my oil. I've done this a number of times on other bikes and cars but never on my Buell. I looked all over the web and read that there was a service manual posted here somewhere but haven't been able to locate it. I checked out a blog that showed how to change the oil on a Sportster but none of the hoses looked familiar. I don't need a step by step (unless there are some unusual steps involving hoses) Im just not sure which bolt is the drain. I found one possible candidate under the swing arm (maybe to drain the reservoir?) I found another candidate at the back of the case and another at the front of the case. I assume one of these is for the transmission maybe the front but... I thought I'd ask the experts before doing something I'd regret. (Message edited by tym29 on June 01, 2008) |
Bad_karma
| Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 12:21 am: |
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Tim The manual here is for a S1. Will not work for your bike in this case. I don't have an XB so can't really help you much. Time to pick up a service manual. But from what I have read in the XB section. First the oil is in the awing arm. There is a drain bolt that is easy to strip and the manuals torque specification is wrong, there are post about that. Your motor is a dry sump so run it for ten minutes or so to get the oil into the tank. before you drain it. Not sure of the capacity but BadWeb has the owners manuals posted somewhere. Do some searching and hopefully some XBer's will be along to straighten out any untruths I have spread. Joe (Message edited by bad_karma on June 01, 2008) |
Tym29
| Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 05:42 pm: |
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thanks Bad_karma, sounds like maybe it IS time to pick up a manual. I was hoping to get this done this weekend. I've read the capacity is 2.5 quarts and the transmission is 1 I think. There is a lot of discussion out there just not the obvious stuff... that, I assume, would be found in the owners manual if i had one. (Message edited by tym29 on June 01, 2008) |
Howard
| Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 07:41 pm: |
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what fluid goes in the primary where the clutch assembly is. |
Tym29
| Posted on Sunday, June 01, 2008 - 11:50 pm: |
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From what i've read there is some special HD primary fluid you can get or just put 20w-50 in it depending on who you listen to. I think i'll go for the later assuming i can get some info on how to drain that too. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 08:19 am: |
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A good 20w50 will work find in the primary. A gear oil has additives that will help it last longer in transmission applications, its still basically motor oil, but has additives that hold up to gear action better. They can't put these same additives in motor oil, because if it ever got into a combustion chamber, it would leave really bad deposits really quickly. So if you know it is for a transmission application only, you can make a gear oil that will work better there. I would stick to the Harley Formula + gear oil. Its a good oil for a fair price, and has been tested with your stator. There has been speculation that Mobil 1 Gear oil was leading to failing stators. Nothing proven, but there is enough anectdotal evidence that I switched. |
Howard
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 08:33 am: |
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what kind of 20-50 would you suggest would be best. |
Howard
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 09:53 am: |
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also i just found some mobil 1 10-40 that says it is for wet primary clutches..was wondering if that would be a good alternative as well..it says it is a full synthetic motorcycle oil. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 01:03 pm: |
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Any full synthetic 20w50. So the Harley screaming eagle oil, or Mobil 1 V twin, or even Mobil 1 15w50 car engine oil. All will work well and have been used many times by many people. The sportster derived clutches in these bikes are pretty bomb proof... I don't think it will slip no matter what you run in there. 10w40 is getting a bit thin for summer use, but might be OK in the winter. |
Howard
| Posted on Monday, June 02, 2008 - 02:49 pm: |
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thanks..too many options think i'll stick with the HD |
Dhalen32
| Posted on Tuesday, June 03, 2008 - 07:47 am: |
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Tym: Buell.com has owners manuals on line. You can set up an account profile with your bike's vin and probably find what you need for basic maintenance in the owner's section of the website. For more ambitious repairs a shop manual is a good idea. Dave |
Pso
| Posted on Thursday, June 05, 2008 - 10:23 am: |
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Tym29-Use Forumla+ only in the primary. It is cheap and only gets changed once every 5K miles. There is some speculation, others make it fact that anything else in the primary will ruin the (I believe)stator. Something about the insulation coming off.Oil change and priamry change is a simple task. Bolt on bottom left side of swing arm. oil filter right front. If the bike has a lower chin fairing, only need to take the bolts off on right side to get to filter. All in all 10-15 minute job, Might want to check the primary chain while you have the wrenches out. Bolt for primary under case, pour in at clutch inspection window. My Uly and Scg are very sensative to exact amount of Formula +. Too much or too little and shifteing or finding N become much more difficult. Also do not use factory manual spec for torque specs on drain plugs, many folks that did eneded up stripping out threads. I use between 15 and 19 lbs on oil drain bolt plus I use locktite thread sealer and repalce the little rubber o ring. Have fun great bike for doing maintence yourself. |
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