| Author |
Message |
    
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 07:46 am: | 
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For starters i have an 06 xb9sx. When im crusin around no problems but when im in 2nd or 3rd and really put the wringers to er. When it gets to the high R's it will back fire and shut off. Happened twice to me just last night has happened before. Whats everyones ideas? |
Blake
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 04:00 pm: |
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You mean the engine dies completely and won't restart? Or it dies momentarily then restarts fine. More info please.
Not likely bad gas. More likely fouled spark plug(s). |
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 07:48 am: |
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it dies completely and you have to hit the starter and start it back up. It only acts up in the high R's and when your WFO. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 08:05 am: |
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Are you up in the red line range and getting the rev limiter to kick in some? |
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 09:50 am: |
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not quite on the rev limiter. More like 1.5 or so grand before. |
Mnbueller
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 10:20 am: |
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Two things come to my mind when reading your symptoms.
1. possibly need to reset TPS..
2. Some part of the ignition system is not operating correctly. Either plugs are going bad (cracked ceramic), or a plug wire is going bad...
Do you get an engine light? any fault codes? |
Sparky
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 10:40 am: |
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Watch the tach the next time it shuts off and you are coasting down. Try to notice if the tach goes to zero while the engine is still turning but not firing. This may indicate some kind of interruption of the +12 VDC supply to the ignition coil or the grounding signal from the cam position sensor.
+1 on check for stored error codes. |
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 12:27 pm: |
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I didn't get any lights. how do i check for codes? It doesn't have any aftermarket parts on it why would i need to a TPS reset?
the tack goes completely to 0. Never paid attention to see if it goes down before i pull the clutch in. If i remember tho all the lights and the odometer are still working and all that when it dies. |
Mnbueller
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 01:09 pm: |
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I think the only way to check for codes that would be in the history is with a factory scan tool, or ECMspy type of software.
I am thinking since it runs good at slower speeds it probably is not the TPS sensor. But if you had ECMspy and a cable, it is something really easy to reset and just check to see if that was it or not.
It seems to be leading to an ignition problem...like a damaged spark plug.
At cruising speeds the cylinder pressures are not that high so it is easy for the spark to jump the gap. But as you increase that cylinder pressure you make it more and more difficult for spark to jump, so if you have a crack in the ceramic, the spark will always take the path of least resistance, and it will jump to the cylinder head instead, causing a missfire and a subsequent backfire...Only thing that is kind of confusing is the fact that the bike then dies....which would be unexpected in this case...so it is more like you are losing battery power to the ignition |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 02:31 pm: |
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Check the spark plugs, wires, and coil connections. Simple stuff first. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 03:03 pm: |
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Check the battery terminals, both to make sure they are clean and firmly connected, and to make sure you don't have an ECM wire bundle routed wrong... it can rub on the terminal and short out one of the ECM wires through a microscopic nick in the wire.
The "high revs" create more vibration and move your weight on the seat, which pushes on the wires, and creates the intermittent electrical issue.
The ECM bundle wire should go under the battery terminal, not over it. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 07:58 pm: |
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He reports the tach goes completely to 0, meaning the ignition signal on the primary side of the coil is getting open-circuited. So, it's not bad spark plugs or plug wires.
Most likely this would indicate a defective sidestand switch if it has one or a bad Bank Angle Sensor (BAS) or Ignition Relay or Ignition fuse or wire harness problem. The BAS should throw an error code. A bad Ignition Relay or Ignition fuse won't but could exhibit erratic behavior or no-go at all. |
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 07:43 am: |
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Update. Figured out still doing it. But Interesting fact. When it acts up it starts to cough and sputter and completely dies. If I can turn the run switch from run too off to run. I don't have to start it. Its weird its still under warrenty so i think im gonna take it to the stealership and tell them to make it run correctly. It really has never ran correctly since i bought it. |
Mikej
| | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 09:20 am: |
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If your bike was the same as my M2 I'd say to check or bypass the sidestand safety switch and clutch lever safety switch, then maybe look at the tipover safety switch if your bike has one of those as well. Sounds suspiciously like an intermittant safety cutout switch malfunction which can be very difficult to track down.
Then there are the magical gremlins like one case I read or heard about. A guy on a long ride, maybe going to Alaska and back or something, might have been on a Harley or a Honda, was having problems with his bike's electrics. Turned out that he had a wire getting pinched under the seat, but only when he hit a bump and his weight compressed the seat enough to short out the wire. Smooth road was no problem, sitting on the bike was no problem, looking for the problem with the seat off was no problem. Only when he hit a big enough bump would it cause a problem. Eventually they tracked it down and re-routed the wiring to avoid that potential pinch spot. Probably no help in this instance, but you never know so don't overlook the stuff that it can't be because it just might be there. Nobody ever uses a $20 bill as a bookmark in a $2 romance novel, until they do, so you'll find what you find where you find it even if it isn't supposed to be or doesn't make any sense to be there. Sometimes you have to think inside the box, sometimes you need to think outside the box, and sometimes there is no box at all.
If you don't know what I'm talking about then don't worry about it because sometimes I don't know either, even if it does make some sense. |
Blake
| | Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 11:26 am: |
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I agree with Mike's thinking and suspect a faulty tip sensor--H-D/Buell confusingly name it a "bank angle sensor".
You might try reseting and/or repositioning that, their should be a little white push pin looking button on a connector very near the ignition module. That will be the tip sensor. If it has been knocked of kilter, then it might activate intermittently.
Some of the Ulysses has trouble like this due to vibration and a uniquely sensitive location of the sensor on the bike. |
Herobluebuell
| | Posted on Friday, April 25, 2008 - 07:38 am: |
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well incase anyone was wondering...took it to the dealership. They said all it needed was a tps reset. figures huh. |
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