| Author |
Message |
    
Double_d
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 07, 2006 - 09:27 pm: | 
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hi im a newbie here, but i think i found the place to be. Im just north of detroit, and
just took delivery on my 06 uly barracade
yellow, 820 ticks on the odometer. i took it as partial trade on a 98 jeep, anyways the guy
i got it from was helicopter pilot and he messaged the exhaust, i took it for a rip the day he dropped it off 45 degs brrrr, the next day it was more like 38 degs and she hasnt fired since. the battery went down, have since remedied that. any pointers grtly appreciated! i want to go for a ride! |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 10:02 am: |
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Tough to diagnose from a distance, so you'll need to provide more info.
She cranks good with the new battery, right? Fuel tank is reasonably full, I assume.
I'd suggest pulling the front spark plug, since you can do that easily once you remove the left hand scoop (3 screws). Is it black/wet/fouled? If yes, put new plugs in and try again.
But, before you thread that front one in and reassemble, mate it to the spark plug wire and rest the metal body on known metal ground and crank the engine, and confirm spark across the gap.
Highly suggest getting a service manual if it did not come with one. If it passes these tests and still doesn't start, you'll want to have one for some of the other diagnosis. Your local dealer can get them, or you can order one here: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F157363&rnd=8819460&rrc=N&affl=&cip=6 9.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=9092&cat=&catst r=
Al |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 12:41 pm: |
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Check for loose battery connections, you have about the right number of miles by which they could work loose from the factory.
If the PO replaced the exhaust, there is a good chance they messed with the ECM. Check connections and wiring bundles for routing over sharp points.
If they did replace the ECM with a race unit for the aftermarket exhaust, they should have done a TPS reset as well. If they didn't, that could explain some problems as well. |
Double_d
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 02:16 pm: |
|
AL, i pulled the plugs and they were
sopping wet, i cleaned them and checked
spark, very good spark i might add. It fired up but sounded like she was missing, i took it for a spin but it honestly felt like she was running on 601.5cc of power. i think im gonna replace the plugs, any recommendations for a plug to use or just use the same that was in there? thanks alot. ive got the procedure
down for removing and replacing the plugs now, not easy if you dont have a manual or help!! |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Wednesday, November 08, 2006 - 11:25 pm: |
|
If you only rode it briefly when it was 45 degrees, it was likely running with the enrichment algorithm operational the whole time, and it is certainly possible to foul a plug. Cleaning is often not good enough when they're fouled to really get a good spark once you cold start it again.
I've never fouled a Buell plug. Not once. But many have. I generally do NOT warm up my bike on the kickstand, only very rarely does it run more than 30 seconds there. But I don't hammer it for the first 5 miles either. That's a good way to get a top end leak somewhere.
I personally run the regular NGK's: 5889 here: http://www.americansportbike.com/shop/cgi-bin/cp-a pp.cgi?usr=51F157363&rnd=2976096&rrc=N&affl=&cip=6 9.160.135.44&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=PROD283&cat=&ca tstr=
Some folks run the Iridiums (#5887 there) or the Splitfires. I pretty much know I'm gonna have the plugs out for other work long before I'll burn an electrode, and I'll generally throw new plugs in when I'm in there. So I remain less convinced that the high zoot metal spark erosion resistant metals are worth the extra coin, at least for the way I maintain my bikes. Some theorize that spark induced flame front propagation from the kernal is more efficient with the smaller, sharper, and/or special shaped electrodes. They're probably right. For street tune engines, I'm not convinced it's worth spending more on. But DO get the right heat range, that is critical.
The bike is about ready for it's 1000 mile service soon. A TPS reset and an AFV check would be a good thing to do at this point, so if you change the plugs, and you get a warm day up there in tropical Detroit (it was 85F here yesterday, neener neener  ), go thrash it for 100 miles and get it in to the dealer for that checkup. If it isn't running good enough to thrash, or it's just too bloody cold, then get the service done earlier than the specified 1k mark so that it gets the TPS reset. If you do this, ask them to read the AFV and tell you what it was prior to them resetting it.
Al |
Double_d
| | Posted on Thursday, November 09, 2006 - 11:17 am: |
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thanks for the headsup, today is going to be about 62 here, im really thinkin of sending her in for service today.
thanks Dave |
Double_d
| | Posted on Monday, November 13, 2006 - 12:00 pm: |
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Al, the ngk 5887 are not correct for the ulysses, i bought them and they dont fit
nor do they match the dimensions of the stock
ulysses plug. ive seen a listing for an ngk iridium with the #2316, does anyone know
if this plug would be suited for the uly?
if not what would, i would like to go down
1 heat range from stock if possible. |
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Monday, November 13, 2006 - 06:42 pm: |
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Dave,
The 5887 is the American Sport Bike part number, not the NGK part number!!! The link I gave was the link in our web store where both the American Sport Bike 5889 and American Sport Bike 5887 numbers are listed.
The NGK part number that the American Sport Bike 5887 is equivalent to is DCPR9EIX / 2316.
You don't want to go colder than the 9. You'll likely have plug fouling issues.
NGK is under the mistaken impression that Buells use heat range 8, not 9. They were correct prior to 2000 when Buell changed from 6R12 to 10R12 plugs. But they haven't caught up to reality despite folks pointing this out to them.
Al |
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06 uly wont fire